2.文本：啟程

 

2、THE TEXT

2、文本

2-1、PROLOGUE

In the name of God, the Merciful and Compassionate, God bless our Prophet Muhammad and his Companions and grant them salvation.'

 

2-1、序言

奉至仁至慈的真主之名，求真主賜福我們的先知穆罕默德和他的同伴，並賞賜他們敬畏。

Praise be to God, mover of creation on aland and sea, opener of ways and means for whoever wished to follow to places both populous and desolate. Thanks to Him, whoever put concern for his fellow man first found that his affairs profited and his efforts yielded the highest return. But whoever was destined for a life of misery would lose his way and find that his dealings were unsuccessful. "If God had wished, He would have made you one umma." Praise be to God who proclaimed His uniqueness by means of His Oneness, His authority by means of His divine attributes, His absolute distance from earthly time, place, and relationships by irrefutable proofs which no man of reason can doubt. "For how could He have a child, when He has no wife?"

 

讚美真主，他是海陸創造的創造者，他開闢了許多道路和方法，使任何人都能前往人煙稠密或荒涼的地方。
感謝真主，誰把對同胞的關懷放在第一位，誰就會發現他的事情得到了好處，他的努力得到了最高的回報。
但是，誰注定要過悲慘的生活，誰就會迷失方向，並發現他的交易是不成功的。
「如果真主願意，他會使你們成為一個民族。
讚美真主，祂以祂的獨一來宣示祂的唯一性，以祂的神聖特質來宣示祂的權威，以任何有理性的人都無法懷疑的無可辯駁的證據來宣示祂與世俗的時間、地點和關係的絕對距離。
「祂沒有妻子，怎麼會有孩子呢？

 

We testify that there is no God but Allah, nor has He any associate. He is alone in creating this world, and His skill is unprecedented. There is no one like Him. He made the towns and the settled places, the open country and the wastelands, and the cities large and small, dispersing among them people of various tongues, colors, creeds, and religions, so that men of intelligence would increase their understanding, and men of good sense their insight. The proof of His omnipotence is manifest in His great works.

 

我們證實，除真主外，絕無其他的真主，他也沒有任何伴侶。
他是獨自創造這個世界的，他的技能是無與倫比的。
沒有人能像他那樣。
他創造了城鎮和叢林，開闊的郊野和荒地，以及大大小小的城市，把不同語言、種族、信仰和宗教的人分散在其中，以便有智慧的人增加他們的理解力，有聰明的人增加他們的洞察力。
祂偉大的作為彰顯了祂的全能。

Oh how astonishing! How can the unbeliever reject God or deny him? In all things He has given a sign Proving that He is the One.

 

哦，這是何等的驚人！不信的人怎能拒絕神或否認他呢？祂在萬事上都有徵兆，證明祂是唯一的。

Praise be to God who separated all creation into monotheist and polytheist, imprinting upon the hearts [of believers] the unshakable truths of monotheism. To some He gave a good life in this world, and for others He reserved the pleasures of the hereafter, raising the lowly on high in reward for their good deeds. "He will not be tested about what He does; rather, it is they who will be tested."

 

讚美真主，他把一切被造物分為一神教和多神教，在[信士們]的心中烙下一神教不可動搖的真理。
真主賜予某些人今世美好的生活，而為另一些人保留了後世的樂趣，使卑微的人升入高處，以報酬他們的善行。
「他不會因他所做的事而受到考驗；相反地，他們才會受到考驗。

We testify that our Master, prophet, and protector Muhammad, His servant and messenger, Lord of the Arabs and the non-Arabs, confirmer of His miracles, was sent to the other nations to spread His message over the world from West to East. Whoever responded was saved, but whoever resisted had the sword of God raised over his neck. Thus the strength of God broke the noses of tyrants, and His true religion eclipsed all others. God bless [Muhammad], his family and his companions, his wives and his descendents, and grant them salvation. May His blessing be perfect, holy, and everlasting. May we reach the highest places and be well-received there, following His unswerving path until we arrive in the presence of our noble Master, the Merciful, the Compassionate. There is no Lord other than He, and no hope other than in His goodness.

 

我們見證我們的主，先知，保護者穆罕默德，他的僕人和使者，阿拉伯人和非阿拉伯人的主，他的蹟象的証實者，被派遣到其他民族，從西方到東方在全世界傳播他的信息。
凡是回應的人都得救了，但凡是反抗的人，神的劍就會架在他的脖子上。
因此，真主的力量打破了暴君的鼻子，他真正的宗教使所有其他宗教黯然失色。
真主保佑[穆罕默德]、他的家人和他的同伴、他的妻子和他的後裔，賜予他們救恩。
願真主的賜福完美、聖潔、永存。
願我們能到達最高的地方，並在那裡受到歡迎，追隨他堅定不移的道路，直到我們到達我們尊貴的主，仁慈的主，慈悲的主面前。
除了祂之外，沒有別的主，除了祂的仁慈之外，沒有別的希望。

Let us continue. After that, God opened the heart of our Sire, pillar of our religion and of this world, the great, majestic, celebrated Sultan, that lofty and venerable believer in God, the mightiest and most protective of his people, the sword of the Islamic community, the pride of Islam, the greatest of the great.

 

讓我們繼續。
之後，真主開啟了我們的陛下、我們的宗教和這個世界的支柱、偉大、莊嚴、著名的蘇丹的心靈，他是崇高、可敬的真主信徒，他是最強大、最能保護他的人民，他是伊斯蘭社會的劍，他是伊斯蘭的驕傲，他是偉大中的偉大。

King of all time and delight of the eye, Full moon and hidden pearl. A king who beautifies with majesty And whose being radiates great knowledge and wisdom. Issue of Sultans [?] from the seed of Muhammad, Most great in his glory and worship of the Merciful One.

 

萬世之王、眾目之寵、滿月與隱珠。
國王的威嚴與美麗，他的存在散發著偉大的知識與智慧。
他是穆罕默德的後裔，他是蘇丹的後裔，他是最偉大的榮耀，他崇拜至仁主。

He is a sharif by descent, Alawi in rank and relation, Hasani by birth, a branch of the Lord of the Arabs and the non-Arabs." May God make him victorious and sustain him in his faith. May He make his future easy, until free men become the slaves of their slaves. May He provide him with his full share of blessings, according to his portion. May He make his sword triumphant over the necks of the evildoers, and spread the carpet of his happiness over the earth. May He bestow on him possessions whose like will not be seen again, and make "caliphate" a word that will remain with his children. May [God] bless his days and provide for his people. [The Sultan] was inspired to send an envoy to the King of the French, so that some benefit might result from it for Muslims and for Islam. He decided on it according to sound judgment and good sense, mindful of his duty to watch over the orderly affairs of all our people, both highborn and low. It has always been a concern of the leaders of our community to protect the people of our faith. The Prophet, God bless him and grant him salvation, often sent out the best from among his companions on missions, providing an example followed by the rightly-guided Caliphs and Imams," as we know from the sources.

 

他是沙里夫的後裔，阿拉維的地位和關係，哈桑尼的出生，阿拉伯人和非阿拉伯人的主的分支"。
願真主使他勝利，並在他的信仰中支持他。
願真主使他的未來容易，直到自由人成為奴隸的奴隸。
願真主按照他的份量，給予他應得的全部福分。
願真主使他的劍勝過作惡者的脖子，使他的幸福的地毯鋪滿大地。
願真主賜予他永世不變的財產，使 「哈里發 」成為他子子孫孫永存的字眼。
願 [真主] 保佑他的日子，供養他的子民。
[蘇丹]受到啟示，派遣使者去見法國國王，以便為穆斯林和伊斯蘭帶來一些利益。
他是根據正確的判斷和理智而決定這樣做的，他牢記自己的職責是監督我們所有人民（無論是高級的還是低級的）的有序事務。
保護我們信仰的人民，一直是我們社會領袖所關心的問題。
先知（真主保佑他，並賜予他救恩）經常派遣他的同伴中最優秀的人去執行任務，為後來受到正確引導的哈里發和伊瑪目提供了一個範例。

The Sultan, may God render him victorious, had a high opinion of his servant, the wise and successful fruit of his planting, advocate of his sound policies and executor of his authority, guardian of the well-being of his flock, the most illustrious and happy Qa'id and Hajj Abd al-Qadir, son of the deceased Qa'id Muhammad Ash'ash, may God be his protector and his sustenance. The Sultan chose him because of his excellent qualities, and ordered him to take along two bright and intelligent amins from families of distinction and piety in Tetuan, as well as whatever talibs, ¹ servants, and helpers he needed to demonstrate the superiority of Muslims and Islam over the worshippers of idols and the proclaimers of fatherhood and sonhood. As it says in the Hadith: "God have mercy on him who shows strength at the right time."16

 

蘇丹（願真主使他勝利）對他的僕人有很高的評價，他的僕人是他種植的智慧和成功的果實，是他健全政策的建議者和他權力的執行者，是他羊群福祉的守護者，是最傑出和幸福的 Qa「id 和 Hajj Abd al-Qadir，他是已故 Qa」id Muhammad Ash'ash 的兒子，願真主成為他的保護者和他的養料。
蘇丹因為他的優秀品質而選擇了他，並命令他帶著兩位來自特圖安傑出和虔誠家庭的聰明伶俐的阿明，以及他所需要的任何塔里卜、¹ 僕人和幫手，以顯示穆斯林和伊斯蘭教優越於偶像崇拜者和父子宣稱者。
正如聖訓中所說的 「真主憐憫在適當時機顯示力量的人。

Then the Qa'id chose from among the men of the first rank his distinguished son-in-law Muhammad b. al-Hajj Muhammad al-Libādī, who is known far and wide, and the bright and sincere Häjj al-'Arabī b. 'Abd al-Karim al-'Attar, who is skilled in dealings with other peoples and has traveled widely in other parts. He also showed good sense by choosing a secretary to accompany him, since he found no shortcomings in him and was in need of his specialty." It is wise for those who go far from home to record everything they see and hear, since they may find some knowledge and value in it. There is no better way of obtaining useful information than by mixing with people. According to a wise saying of the ancients: "The eye never tires from seeing, nor the car from hearing."

 

然後，卡伊德從一等人中選擇了他的傑出女婿穆罕默德-哈吉-穆罕默德-利-巴迪（Muhammad b. al-Hajj Muhammad al-Li-bādī），他是遠近馳名的人物；還有聰明誠懇的哈吉-阿拉比-阿布德-卡里姆-阿塔爾（Häjj al-'Arabī b. 'Abd al-Karim al-'Attar），他擅長與其他民族打交道，並曾在其他地方廣泛旅行。
他也很明智地選擇了一位秘書陪伴他，因為他發現他沒有任何缺點，而且需要他的專長。
對於那些遠離家鄉的人來說，記錄下他們所見所聞的每一件事是明智的，因為他們可能會從中發現一些知識和價值。
要獲得有用的資訊，最好的方法莫過於與人交往。
根據古人的一句至理名言：
 「百看不厌，百聽不厭」。

Therefore, I decided with the help of God to blacken these pages with what I saw and heard during this voyage, be it clear or obscure. For I am but a woodgatherer of the night, the one who lags behind, a horse who is out of the race. You should not judge me too harshly, for I am only doing it as a reminder to myself, and to inform others who may ask me from among my fellow countrymen. Let the masters of composition and rhetoric excuse me, and let the burdens of the men of metaphor and allusion be lifted from me. I beseech God to cover my mistakes. May He help me complete the task and be pleased with me, for I say, I take my hope from Him.

 

因此，在上帝的幫助下，我決定將我在這次航行中的所見所聞，無論是清晰的還是模糊的，都塗在這幾頁紙上。
因為我只是黑夜中的樵夫，落在後面的人，脫穎而出的馬。
你們不應過於嚴厲地批評我，因為我這樣做只是為了提醒自己，也是為了告知其他可能向我詢問的同胞。
讓作文和修辭學家為我開脫，讓隱喻和典故學家為我卸下重擔。
我懇求上帝掩蓋我的錯誤。
願祂幫助我完成任務，並喜悅我，因為我說，我的希望來自祂。

Our departure from the seat of our happiness, the comfort of our daily lives, the pillow of our heads, the nest of our youth, the abode of our joy and vitality, our Tetuan, may God keep it safe forever, took place early Saturday morning in the month of Dhū al-Hijja alHaram, in which exactly thirteen nights had already passed. It was the year 1261.

 

在 Dhū al-Hijja alHaram 月的星期六清晨，我們離開了我們的幸福之地、我們日常生活的舒適之處、我們的枕頭、我們的青春之窩、我們的喜樂與活力的居所、我們的特圖安（願真主永保它的安全）。
當時是 1261 年。

 

At the start of the journey, the caravan leader bridled the animals and composed these verses, the words giving him comfort:

 

在旅程開始時，商隊領隊為牲畜上韁，並創作了這些詩句，這些詩句讓他感到安慰：

O my splendid Tetuan, will fate allow us

To come home, and will we meet again?

Will your face appear and draw near, after

The crashing waves, will we be reunited?

May torrential rain sweep your quarters and refresh

Your sheltering walls, after the horses have run the course!

I commend to your care my loved ones, and I

Hold their memory dear, even though I am far away.

 

哦，我華麗的德端，命運會允許我們

回家，我們會再相遇嗎？

你的容顏是否會出現，在

洶湧的波濤，我們能否重逢？

願滂沱大雨席捲您的莊園，使

在駿馬奔騰之後，你那遮風擋雨的牆壁！

我將我所愛的人交給您照顧，我

儘管我遠在他鄉，我仍珍視他們的記憶。

We rode out of town to the port. A huge vessel had been sent for us, one of the ships of fire known as bābūr.19 They had chosen one of their very best for us, as a sign of their friendship and good faith. We rode to the larger ship in small boats and then went down into its belly just as one goes down into a grave of the dead. The captain settled us in the best quarters, separate from the crew. His people greeted us with friendly smiles and kind attentions. They put us in a cabin with fine clean rugs and low comfortable beds, and their spokesman said to us: "Be at your ease, for we wish you to be as comfortable as possible." When everything was ready, we took our leave from those who had come to bid us farewell.

 

我們騎馬出城，前往港口。
他們為我們挑選了一艘最好的船，以表示他們的友誼和誠意。
我們乘著小船上了大船，然後下沉到船腹，就像下沉到死人的墳墓一樣。
船長把我們安置在最好的地方，與船員分開。
他的人以友善的笑容和親切的關懷迎接我們。
他們把我們安置在一個鋪有乾淨地毯和舒適矮床的船艙裏，他們的發言人對我們說：
 「請放心，我們希望你們住得越舒服越好」 一切就緒後，我們向那些來向我們道別的人告別。

Then the ship raised its anchor, its parts stirred into motion, and we prayed: "Keep us from the cursed Satan. In the name of God, let us reach our destination and put safely into port, for the Lord is compassionate and merciful." Cannons of rejoicing were fired and the sea accepted us into its tranquility. We put ourselves into the hands of the eternal life, for there is no defense or refuge other than Him, praise be unto Him. "If the evil in the sea touches you, there is no help other than from Him." As Ibn al-'Arabi said, "Whoever is willing may be assured that God alone is the First Cause, and [other] reasons pale [beside Him]"; so ride upon the sea and it will be as he said. And it is said: "Whoever sails the sea puts his life in jeopardy, but even greater is the danger for him who counsels the Sultan unwisely." There is no doubt that he who travels by sea is nothing but a worm on a piece of wood, a trifle in the midst of a powerful creation. The waters play about with him at will, and no one but God can help him. Our goal was the city of Marseille, which is on the northern shore of this sea.

 

然後船起了錨 它的各個部分開始運轉 我們祈禱說：
 「讓我們遠離被詛咒的撒旦。
奉主之名，讓我們到達目的地，安全入港，因為主是慈悲仁慈的"。
歡欣的炮聲響起，大海接受了我們的安寧。
我們把自己交託在永恆生命的手中，因為除了祂之外，沒有任何防禦或避難所，讚美歸於祂。
「如果海中的惡魔碰觸到你們，除了祂之外，沒有其他的幫助」。
正如伊本-阿拉比所說的：
「誰願意，誰就可以確信，只有真主是第一因，[其他的]原因是蒼白的。
有人說 「誰在海上航行，誰的生命就會受到威脅，但對於那些不明智地向蘇丹請教的人來說，威脅更大」。
毫無疑問，在海上航行的人不過是木頭上的蟲子，在強大的造物中微不足道。
海水會隨意玩弄他，除了上帝，沒有人能幫助他。
我們的目標是馬賽城，它就在這片海的北岸。

You should know that this sea is called the Sea of Rüm because of the great number of countries of Rüm along its shores, especially to the north.24 It used to be called the Sea of Sham because it ended in the land of Sham; also [it was called] the Middle Sea. But today it is known among most people of Morocco as the Small Sea in contrast to the Surrounding [Sea], which we call the Great Sea. It begins at the narrow opening between Tangier and Tarifa, which is about twelve miles wide and commonly known to us as būghaz. In the south, the straits are between Ceuta and Qaşı al-Jawāz, also known as Qaşı aş-Şaghir; in the north, between Algeciras and Tarifa. The [Small Sea] has no other outlet to the Surrounding Sea than this. The straits are in the fourth zone. 29

 

你們應當知道，這個海被稱為魯姆海，是因為沿岸有許多魯姆國家，尤其是在北邊。
24 以前它被稱為沙姆海，因為它的盡頭是沙姆地；它也被稱為中海。
但今天，摩洛哥大多數人都稱它為小海，與我們稱為大海的環繞[海]形成對比。
它始於 Tangier 和 Tarifa 之間的狹窄開口，寬約 12 英里，我們通常稱之為 būghaz。
在南部，海峽位於 Ceuta 和 Qaşı al-Jawāz（又稱 Qaşı aş-Şaghir）之間；在北部，位於 Algeciras 和 Tarifa 之間。
除此以外，[小海] 沒有其他出口通往環繞海。
海峽在第四區。
29

The explanation of this is that the shape of the earth, according to the ancients, is spherical, and is surrounded by the element of water, like a floating grape. The water withdrew from some parts of it, about one-half of the surface of the sphere. Therefore the earth has a spherical form surrounded on all sides by a body of water called the Surrounding Sea. 30 This sphere is divided into two halves by a long line extending from east to west, called the equator. If you stand on this line and face east, everything on your right will be south, everything on your left north. Next to the equator in the southern direction it is almost completely wasteland, because of the excessive heat and the very slight inclination of the sun there from the equinoxes. The inhabited area to the north of the equator is sixty-four degrees [wide]. The rest is barren and uninhabited because of the freezing cold.

 

古人認為地球的形狀是球形的，並被水元素包圍，就像一顆漂浮的葡萄。
水從地球的某些部分，也就是球體表面的二分之一流走了。
因此，地球呈球形，四面被稱為環海的水體包圍。
30 這個球體被一條從東到西延伸的長線分成兩半，這條線叫做赤道。
如果您站在這條線上，面朝東方，您右邊的所有東西都在南邊，您左邊的所有東西都在北邊。
赤道南邊幾乎完全是荒地，因為熱度過高，而且太陽的傾斜度與赤道相差很遠。
赤道以北有人居住的地方有六十四度 [寬]。
由於極度寒冷，其餘的地方都是荒蕪和無人居住的。

透過 DeepL.com（免費版）翻譯

Thus the settled land on the exposed part of the earth is equal to one-fourth of it. This cultivated area was divided by the ancients into seven parts, each part called a "zone."" This is what is meant by the seven zones. These zones are equal in width but unequal in length, because their length goes from west to east and their width from north to south. The first zone is longer than the second, the second longer [than the third], and so on until the seventh, which is the shortest of all, because of what happens when you divide a hemisphere. The beginning of the first zone is the length of the equator, and its width extends in the northerly direction. It runs along the equator from west to east, bordering the equator in the south and the second zone on the north. The beginning of the second zone is where the first zone ends. Its extent is also from west to east and on the south it borders the first zone, and on the north the third zone, and so on. The first [zone] is the longest and the last the shortest, because the longest line around any sphere is that which goes around its middle, and we have already said that the equator divides [the earth] in two. Then they divided each zone lengthwise from east to west into ten equal sections. That is why you hear someone say that such-and-such a place is in the fourth or fifth section of the first zone or the second.

 

因此，地球裸露部分的定居土地相當於地球的四分之一。
古人將這片耕地分成七個部分，每個部分稱為一個「區」「」。
這就是七區的意思。
這些區域的寬度相等，但長度不等，因為它們的長度從西到東，寬度從北到南。
第一個區域比第二個區域長，第二個區域比第三個區域長，如此類推，直到第七個區域，這是所有區域中最短的，因為當你分割一個半球時會發生什麼事。
第一區的起點是赤道的長度，它的寬度向北延伸。
它沿赤道由西向東延伸，南邊與赤道接壤，北邊與第二區接壤。
第二區的起點是第一區的終點。
它的範圍也是從西到東，南邊與第一區接壤，北邊與第三區接壤，如此類推。
第一[區]是最長的，最後一區是最短的，因為任何球體周圍最長的線就是繞其中間的線，而我們已經說過赤道將[地球]一分為二。
然後他們把每個區域從東到西縱向分成十個相等的部分。
這就是為什麼你會聽到有人說，某某地方是在第一區的第四或第五區，或是第二區的第四或第五區。

The Small Sea begins at the abovementioned straits, which are in the [] section of the fourth zone. It terminates at the end of the fourth section of the fourth zone at the coast of Syria, 1,160 parasangs from its starting point. After leaving the straits, the Small Sea heads eastward and spreads out toward the north and the south, entering the third zone in the south and reaching as far as the fifth zone in the north, according to what Ibn Khaldūn says. On its southern shore are Tangier, Ceuta, Tetuan, then the coast of the Rif where Melilla and Badis, both owned by the Spanish, are located. 35 Then Oran and Algiers and the rest of that province, which is now in the hands of the French. Then Tunis, Sfax, and Sousse and the rest of the coast of Ifriqiya," then Jerba, which is in the bay there. Then Tripoli and Maserata, the place where Sīdī Ahmad Zarrūq, 37 may God be of assistance to us, is buried. Then the bay known as the Bay of Kibrit, then Derna and the other lands of Barqa, then Alexandria. Then one passes on to the land of Sham.

 

小海從上述位於第四區 [] 段的海峽開始。
它的終點在第四區第四段的敘利亞海岸，距離起點 1,160 段。
根據 Ibn Khaldūn 的說法，小海離開海峽之後，向東流，向南北擴散，從南部進入第三區，最遠可達北部的第五區。
在其南岸有丹吉爾、休達、特圖安，然後是里夫（Rif）海岸，西班牙人擁有的梅利利亞（Melilla）和巴迪斯（Badis）都位於此地。
35 接著是奧蘭 (Oran) 和阿爾及爾 (Algiers) 以及該省的其他地區，這些地區現在都在法國人手中。
然後是突尼斯（Tunis）、斯法克斯（Sfax）和蘇塞（Sousse），以及伊夫里基亞（Ifriqiya）沿岸的其他地方。
」然後是傑爾巴（Jerba），在那裡的海灣。
然後是的黎波里（Tripoli）和馬塞拉塔（Maserata），也就是埋葬 Sīdī Ahmad Zarrūq 的地方。
接著是被稱為 Kibrit 灣的海灣，然後是 Derna 和 Barqa 的其他土地，接著是亞歷山大。
然後前往沙姆（Sham）之地。

On its northern shore are Tarifa, then Algeciras, then Gibraltar, then Malaga, then Almeria, and the rest of the shore of Andalus, now known as Spain. All of it belongs to the Spanish except for Gibraltar, which is English. Then comes the country of France. The first port after Spain is a small one called Port-Vendres, then Marseille, then Toulon, and the rest of the coast of France. Then comes the land of Italy. Among its cities are Genoa, which belongs to Sardinia, Livorno, which belongs to the Livornese, then the great city of Rome, which is not on the coast but is inland. Then comes Naples, which belongs to the Neapolitans. It is on a mountain which extends into the sea; at its tip is the island of Sicily. Between them is a small opening called the Straits of Messina, which also belongs to the Neapolitans. Then the sea enters a gulf beyond Naples called the Gulf of Venice, which ends in the land of Austria, to which both Venice and the straits of the above-mentioned Gulf belong.

 

在它的北岸有塔里法（Tarifa），然後是阿爾赫西拉斯（Algeciras），然後是直布羅陀（Gibraltar），然後是馬拉加（Malaga），然後是阿爾梅里亞（Almeria），以及安達魯斯（Andalus）海岸的其他地方，也就是現在的西班牙。
除了直布羅陀屬於英國之外，其他都屬於西班牙。
接著是法國。
西班牙之後的第一個港口是一個叫 Port-Vendres的小港口，然後是Mar-seille，然後是Toulon，以及法國海岸的其他地方。
接下來是義大利。
其城市包括屬於薩爾地亞的熱那亞 (Genoa)、屬於利沃諾人 (Livornese) 的利沃諾 (Livorno)，然後是大城羅馬 (Rome)，它不在海岸上，而是在內陸。
接著是那不勒斯，屬於那不勒斯人。
它位於一座延伸入海的山上，山頂是西西里島。
兩島之間有一個小口，稱為墨西拿海峽 (Straits of Messina)，也屬於那不勒斯人。
之後，海水進入那不勒斯以外的一個海灣，稱為威尼斯灣，盡頭是奧地利的土地，威尼斯和上述海灣的海峽都屬於奧地利。

On the coast of this Gulf after Austria and opposite Naples is the land of the Turks and Albania. Numerous islands are crowded together there. Then following the land of the Turks along this shore comes the Peloponnesus, which belongs to the Greeks. After the Peloponnesus the sea enters a small bay and emerges again in the land of the Turks. It ends at the narrow straits known as the Straits of the Dardanelles, which open out directly to the city of Constantinople the Great, which is Istanbul. Then it leaves by the straits known as the Straits of Constantinople and ends in the land of Moscow. That sea, which is surrounded by land, is generally known as the Black Sea, and the Turks call it kara deniz, which is two words, kara signifying "black" and deniz meaning "sea" in Turkish, that is, the Black Sea, with the adjective coming first according to the rule of structure in languages other than Arabic. From here it leaves through the Straits of the Dardanelles and goes on to the city of Izmir, where many of the peoples of Rum and of the Turks [live], and so on until it reaches the land of Sham, where it turns back in the direction of Alexandria and comes to an end. In this sea are many inhabited islands, among them the islands of Ibiza, Majorca, and Minorca, all belonging to Spain and close to it. Also the island of Sardinia, which belongs to the Sardinians, and the island of Corsica, which belongs to the French, and the island of Şiqillīya, which belongs to the Neapolitans and is called Sicily nowadays, as we have mentioned. Also, the famous island of Malta, which is under English rule, and the island of Crete facing the Peloponnesus, and the island of Cyprus opposite Syria, and many other small islands, especially [between] the Peloponnesus and the land of the Turks.

 

在奧地利之後、那不勒斯對面的海灣沿岸，是土耳其和阿爾巴尼亞的土地。
許多島嶼擠在一起。
然後，土耳其人的土地沿著這片海岸來到屬於希臘人的伯羅奔尼撒。
經過伯羅奔尼撒後，大海進入一個小海灣，再次出现在土耳其人的土地上。
它的盡頭是被稱為達達尼爾海峽（Straits of the Dardanelles）的狹窄海峽，直接通向君士坦丁堡大帝的城市，也就是伊斯坦布爾。
然後，它從被稱為君士坦丁堡海峽（Straits of Constantinople）的海峽出發，終點在莫斯牛（Moscow）的土地上。
那片被陸地包圍的海一般被稱為黑海，土耳其人稱它為 kara deniz，這是兩個單詞，在土耳其語中，kara 表示「黑色」，deniz 表示「海」，也就是黑海，根據阿拉伯語以外語言的結構規則，形容詞在前。
從這裡出發，經過達達尼爾海峽（Straits of the Dardanelles），一直到伊茲密爾城（Izmir），那裡有許多魯姆人和土耳其人[居住]，如此類推，一直到達沙姆（Sham）地區，在那裡折回亞歷山大（Alexandria）方向，到此為止。
在這片海域中，有許多有人居住的島嶼，其中伊比沙島、馬略卡島和米諾卡島都屬於西班牙，而且離西班牙很近。
還有屬於薩丁尼亞人的薩丁尼亞島（Sardinia）、屬於法國人的科西嘉島（Corsica），以及屬於那不勒斯人的錫基利亞島（Şiqillīya），正如我們所提到的，它現在被稱為西西里島（Sicily）。
此外，著名的馬耳他島也在英國人的統治之下，克里特島面向伯羅奔尼撒，塞浦路斯島在敘利亞對面，還有許多其他小島，特別是在伯羅奔尼撒和土耳其人的土地之間。

 

Returning to where we were, for four days we traveled in the greatest comfort and luxury. Sometimes the waves lifted us up; at other times, when the wind subsided and the weather became pleasant, they set us down. As the distance grew shorter our joy increased, for we were in dread of the terrors of the sea and our voyage was in the month of December. But God kept us safe from its trickery, although each of us received a share of its motion. On Thursday, some small disturbances began, but we had already entered into the Gulf of Lions, where the crossing is almost always difficult. Moreover, the ship had an urgent need for coal, so it was decided to put in at Port-Vendres, the first French port [on this coast], where we anchored on Wednesday afternoon. Our insideş settled down and our excitement abated: each of us regained vitality, our dizziness stopped, and we returned to life.

 

回到原來的地方後，我們在最舒適和豪華的環境中旅行了四天。
有時，海浪會把我們托起；有時，當風力減弱，天氣變好時，海浪又會把我們放下。
隨著距離越來越短，我們的喜悅也越來越多，因為我們害怕大海的恐怖，而且我們的航程是在十二月。
雖然我們每個人都受到了海流的影響，但上帝還是讓我們安全地躲過了它的詭計。
星期四，一些小的騷動開始了，但我們已經進入了獅子灣，在那裡渡海幾乎總是困難的。
此外，船隻急需煤炭，因此決定停靠在旺德爾港（Port-Vendres），這是法國[在此海岸]的第一個港口，我們於週三下午在此下錨。
我們的內心安定下來，激動也減退了：
我們每個人都恢復了活力，頭暈也停止了，我們又回到了生活中。

 

This is a small port, but due to the skill and exactitude of its design and the excellent construction of its entranceway and shores, it is equal to or even better than a large one. There are no winds or waves inside it, and the ship sailed as if it were in a basin. When we reached the shore, they tied ropes [from the ship) to heavy iron rings nailed into the great rocks from which the shores are built. Fortifications for cannon guard its entranceway, and huge beacons sit upon the mountain to illuminate the darkness and lead [ships] into port. There is a small town here of the same name, with houses and shops along the shore where one can buy foodstuffs such as bread, meat, fruit, and vegetables. It also has many vineyards, for it belongs to the countryside and is not a large city. In the port the only goods we saw were vats of wine, perhaps because this is the country of the grape.

 

這是一個小港口，但由於其設計的技巧和精確性，以及其入口和海岸的優良結構，它等同於甚至優於一個大港口。
它的內部無風無浪，船隻航行就像在一個盆地中一樣。
當我們抵達海岸時，他們將[船上的]繩索綁在釘在巨大岩石上的沉重鐵環上，而海岸就是由這些岩石建成的。
大炮的堡壘守衛著入口，巨大的燈塔坐落在山上，照亮黑暗，引導 [船隻] 進港。
這裡有一個同名的小鎮，沿岸有房屋和商店，可以買到麵包、肉類、水果和蔬菜等食品。
這裡也有許多葡萄園，因為它屬於郊區，並不是一座大城市。
在港口，我們唯一看到的貨品是大桶的葡萄酒，也許因為這是葡萄之鄉。

We spent the night there and the ship took on what it needed,and with the coming of the day, we raised anchor and reentered the Gulf of Lions. There we met calm going, which was unusual, except that during three hours of the last night something or other hit us. On Friday we awoke in the port of Marseille, and we thanked God for our safe arrival, for we had covered the distance and reached our goal. The length of our journey by sea apart from the stopover in Port-Vendres was five days.

 

我們在那裏過了一夜，船接受了它所需要的東西，隨著白天的來臨，我們起錨，重新進入了獅子灣。
在那裡，我們遇到了平靜，這是不尋常的，除了在最後一夜的三個小時，有東西或其他東西打我們。
星期五，我們在馬賽港醒來，感謝上帝讓我們平安抵達，因為我們已走完路程，達到目標。
除了在旺德爾港（Port-Vendres）停留之外，我們的海上旅程長達五天。

After the sun rose, the most important man in the town came aboard to greet us, showing much friendliness and goodwill. We disembarked amidst ceremony and rejoicing while they fired off cannon, filling the air with news of our arrival for listeners both near and far. When we entered the town, we were greeted with respect and solicitude, for the chief of the militia had ordered the cavalry and infantry to line up for us in an honor guard. They transported us in fine coaches pulled by elegantly fitted horses until we arrived at a luxurious house, where we stayed in the greatest comfort. 46 We remained there the day of our arrival and the next day, Saturday. Early Sunday morning we decided to leave for the city of Paris, the home of their Sultanate and the seat of their kingdom.

 

太陽升起後，鎮上最重要的人上船迎接我們，表現得非常友善和親切。
我們在隆重的儀式和歡樂聲中登岸，同時他們放起了大炮，向遠近的聽眾傳播我們抵達的消息。
當我們進入鎮子時，民兵首領命令騎兵和步兵列隊迎接我們。
他們用優雅的馬拉著馬車接送我們，直到我們到達一棟豪華的房子，在那裡我們住得最舒適。
46 我們抵達的當天和第二天，也就是星期六，都待在那裡。
星期天一早，我們決定前往巴黎市，那是他們蘇丹國的故鄉，也是他們王國的所在地。

 

Plate 7. The Moroccan suite on board the Météore. From L'Illustration, 28 February 1846.

圖 7. Météore 號上的摩洛哥套房。
摘自 L'Illustration，1846 年 2 月 28 日。

NOTES：

1. The Rihla(旅行) begins with a khutba, or "invocation to God," in which the author asks for His blessings on the enterprise, mentions his patrons, and states the main themes of the work.

2. Koran 16:93. Umma here refers to human groups bound by ties that may be ethnic, linguistic, or religious; usually umma refers specifically to the community of Islam. SEI, s.v. "Umma."

3. Koran 6:101.

 

4. Associating another with God (shirk) is considered a form of polytheism by Muslims. The rejection of shirk is usually expressed along with a statement about the Oneness of God, as here. SEI, s. v. "Shirk."

5. Koran 21:23.

 

6. Mawla, or Mulay in the Moroccan dialect. One of the titles of the Sultan of Morocco (Dozy 2:624). The reference is to the reigning Sultan, 'Abd ar-Rahman b. Hisham (1822-59).

7. Word not clear in manuscript.

8. Titles for rulers of Morocco, who claim descent from the Prophet Muhammad. A sharif is a relative of the Prophet. In Morocco, most sharifs are from the branch of the Prophet's grandson al-Hasan, son of 'Ali and Fatima; thus" "Alawi" and "Hasani." C. E. Bosworth, The Islamic Dynasties (Edinburgh, 1967), pp. 38-41; El 2, s. v. "Hasani," and table.

 

9. Moroccan sovereigns laid claim to the spiritual title of "Caliph" along with the temporal title of "Sultan." Their official title of Amir alMu'minin ("Commander of the Faithful") underscored the fact that their legitimacy rested not only on family and political power but also on religious authority. On the Caliphate, see H. A. R. Gibb, "The Sunni Theory of the Caliphate," in Studies on the Civilization of Islam, eds. Stanford J. Shaw and William R. Polk (Boston, 1962), pp. 141-50; SEI, s.v. "Khalifa." 10. Literally, "to the exalted one of the French people" (li-azim jins alfaransis). Louis-Philippe's official title was Roi de France, but aş-Şaffär usually refers to him as "Sultan" rather than "King" (malik), following the usage in Makhzan correspondence.

11. Al-khulafa ar-räshidün wal-a'imma al-muhtadün, a reference to the revered immediate successors to the Prophet, who served as models of behavior to subsequent generations of believers. 12. Khadim. High officials in the Makhzan were called "servants," even

those who served in the upper ranks. Dozy 1:354; Laroui, Origines, p. 117.

13. The qa'id was a Makhzan official appointed by the Sultan who had

various functions; here, the governor of a large town. Ibn Zaydän, Izz, 1.

glossary, p. 412.

14. A Makhzan official entrusted with fiscal responsibilities. The amins in Tetuan were inspectors in the port, charged with collecting customs revenues and making payments on orders from the Sultan. Ibn Zaydän, Izz, 1. glossary, pp. 396-97.

15. Literally, a student of Islamic studies, but in Morocco, a title also applied to an educated man who earned his living through commerce. Laroui, Origines, pp. 90, 441.

16. The Hadith are collections of sacred traditions about the life of the Prophet and his companions. SEI, s. v. "Hadith."

17. This was Muhammad aş-Şaffar.

 

18. 13 December 1845.

19. Here, a steamship, from the Spanish vapor. Ibn Zaydan, Izz, 1,

glossary, p. 414.

20. Arabic qamra, from the Spanish cámara, a room or cabin on a ship.

Dozy 2:403.

 

21. Koran 17:67.

22. Muhammad Ibn al-'Arabi, celebrated Sufi mystic of Andalusian origin, who died in Damascus in 638/1240. SEI, s.v. "Ibn (al-) Arabi."

23. The Greeks and Romans idealized the sea, but Arabic writers often spoke of it with loathing. 'Amr b. al-As, the Arab conqueror of Egypt, reportedly wrote to the Caliph 'Umar that "the sea is a great creature upon which weak creatures ride, like worms on a piece of wood." At-Tabari, Annales, ed. M. J. de Goeje et al. (Leiden, 1879-1901), 1:2821, anno 28 [648-49], quoted in the Muqaddimah 2:39. Abū al-Hasan Ali at-Tamgrūtī (Tamgrouti), author of En-nafkhat el-miskiya fi-s-sifarat et-tourkiya: Relation d'une ambassade marocaine en Turquie, 1589-1591, trans. H. de Castries (Paris, 1929), used a similar expression (p. 39). Despite their proximity to the sea, Moroccans rarely chose seamanship as an occupation, and local folklore reflects a fear of it. See L. Brunot, La mer dans les traditions et les industries indigènes à Rabat et Salé (Paris, 1921), pp. 1-12.

 

24. Rum was the medieval Arabic term for Greek Byzantium; by extension, Rūmi meant Christian, and the "lands of Rüm" meant Christian Europe. According to S. D. Goitein, Rūmi was used by Arabic-speaking Egyptian Jews (in the Geniza documents) "well into the twelfth century": thereafter, the word Ifranji emerges (from "Frank"), with a distinction made between Europeans in the East (Rūmīs) and the West (Ifränjis). After the thirteenth century, Fransa is used in the Geniza letters to designate France. Goitein, A Mediterranean Society, 5 vols. (Berkeley, 1967-88), 1:43.

In Morocco, Europeans are commonly known as naşārā, or "Nazarenes." As-Saffär uses the following terms: 1) bilad ar-Rüm, by which he means all the lands of Christian Europe; 2) bilad al-Faransis, the "land of the French"; and 3) Fransa, France. For further discussion, see Lewis, Muslim Discovery, pp. 20, 140; IB 2:415 note 14.

25. Ash-Sham, the medieval Arabic term for the land of Syria.

26. The Atlantic Ocean.

27. The Moroccan word for "straits." Harrell, p. 14. At-Tamgrūti says it is Turkish. En-nafkhat, p. 4328. Qaşr aş-Şaghir was the departure point for expeditions against

Spain; hence the name Qaşr al-Jawaz, "the fort of the passage." E. Mi-

chaux-Bellaire, "El-Qçar Eç-Çeghir," RMM 16, 12 (1911): 350. 29. The word for "zone" (iqlim) comes from the Greek klima, meaning a latitudinal section of the earth's surface. Muqaddimah 1:111.

 

30. Ibn Khaldūn: "The earth has a spherical shape and is enveloped by water. It may be compared to a grape floating upon water. The water withdrew from certain parts of (the earth)... [about] one-half the surface of the sphere... [It] is surrounded on all sides by Surrounding Sea." Muqaddimah 1:94-95. a sea called 'the

31. See note 29 above.

 

32. Aş-Şaffar left a blank space, probably because he did not know; nor did Ibn Khaldūn provide the information.

33. A parasang, from the Persian farsang, originally the distance covered on foot in one hour. According to Ibn Khaldün, it measures 12,000 cubits or about three Arabic miles, hence 3.5 English miles. Muqaddimah 1:96 and note 19.

34. This section is based on Ibn Khaldün's Second Prefatory Discussion, updated with contemporary place names and more recent historical data. Muqaddimah 1:129-33, 139-43.

35. Melilla was captured by the Spanish in 1497; Badis was ceded to the Spanish in 1564. C.-A. Julien, History of North Africa: Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco (London, 1970), pp. 206, 226, 253.

36. The medieval Arabic term for Tunisia. Zakariya b. Muhammad b. Mahmüd al-Qazwīni, Āthār al-bilad wa-akhbar al-ibād (Beirut, n.d.). pp. 148-49.

37. Abū al-'Abbas Ahmad b. Muhammad b. İsa al-Burnūsi al-Fasi, known as Zarrūq (b. 846/1442), a famous jurisconsult revered throughout North Africa. Al-Qadiri (trans. Cigar), Nashr, p. 160 and note 13; LéviProvençal, Les historiens, p. 187 note 3.

 

38. The location is the Gulf of Sidra (khalij surt), but the name kibrit which aş-Şaffär uses could not be found in any of the standard geographical dictionaries. Kibrit is sulphur, important for making gunpowder and medicaments; perhaps this region was a source of it. El 2, s.v. "Kibrit."

39. A word applied by the medieval Arab geographers to the town of al-Marj and the region surrounding it, located in ancient Cyrenaica; present-day Libya. El 2, s. v. "Barka."

40. In Arabic shana qal'a, from the Turkish çanakkale, which is a combination of çanak, a Turkish word meaning "pot," and qal'a, Arabic for "fort."

 

41. Moroccan travelers used both names. Ibn Battüţa (fourteenth century) explained that "one of the two parts of the city of Constantinople is Astanbül. It is on the eastern bank of the river." IB 2:508. At-Tamgrūti (sixteenth century) referred to it as Constantinople. En-nafkhat, p. 43. For theories regarding the origin of the name, see D. J. Georgacas, "The Names of Constantinople," Transactions of the American Philological Association 78 (1947): 366-67; El 2, s. v. "Istanbul."

42. Conquered by the Aghlabids in the ninth century, Sicily remained under Arab dominion for almost two hundred years. Al-Qazwīni, Athar albilad, pp. 215-16; P. Hitti, The History of the Arabs (New York, 1967), pp. 602-6.

 

43. The migratory character of the Muslim lunar calendar made it impractical for agricultural purposes, and in Morocco the months were known by their Latin names even in precolonial times. The Roman months were used in everyday speech, while the Muslim calendar was reserved for dating government documents and religious events. A. Joly, "Un calendrier agricole marocain," AM 3, 2 (1905): 301-19; Dozy 1:425.

44. "A shortage of water and coal, in addition to a very strong wind, made the commanding officer decide to put in here." AAE/CPM 15/213.

Roches to Guizot, Port-Vendres, 17 December 1845.

 

45. The word for coach is kudshi (pl. akdash), from the Spanish coche. The word had been known in Morocco for some time; it appears in alGhassani's Iftikak, a report of travels in seventeenth-century Spain (p. 9). In the late eighteenth century, L. Chenier wrote that Sultan Muhammad b. 'Abd Allah (1757-90) "never appears in public but on horseback, or in his calesh." The Present State of the Empire of Morocco, 2 vols. (London, 1788), 2:307-8.

46. They stayed at the Hôtel d'Orient. AAE/CPM 15/215-16, Pourcet to Guizot, 19 December 1845. See also DAR 17578, Ash'ash to Sultan Mulay 'Abd ar-Rahman, 20 Dhū al-Hijja 1261/20 December 1845.

 

註解：

1. 里赫拉》以 「庫特巴」（khutba）或 「向真主祈禱」（invocation to God）開始，作者在其中祈求真主保佑他的事業，提到他的贊助者，並陳述作品的主要主題。

2. 古蘭經》16:93。
這裡的 Umma 指的是以種族、語言或宗教為關係的人類團體；通常 umma 特指伊斯蘭教的團體。
SEI, s.v. 「Umma」.

3. 古蘭經》6:101。

4. 穆斯林認為將他人與真主相提並論（shirk）是多神教的一種形式。
拒絕歸順真主的教法通常與真主獨一性的聲明一起表達，就像這裡一樣。
SEI, s. v. 「Shirk」.

5. 古蘭經》21:23。

6. 摩洛哥方言稱為 Mawla 或 Mulay。
摩洛哥蘇丹的稱號之一（Dozy 2:624）。
指的是在位的蘇丹 'Abd ar-Rahman b. Hisham (1822-59)。

7. 手稿中的字不清楚。

8. 摩洛哥統治者的頭銜，他們聲稱自己是先知穆罕默德的後裔。
Sharif 是先知的親屬。
在摩洛哥，大多數 sharif 都來自先知的孫子 al-Hasan（阿里和法蒂瑪的兒子）的分支；因此有「Alawi」和「Hasani」之稱。
C. E. Bosworth, The Islamic Dynasties (Edinburgh, 1967), pp.

9. 摩洛哥君主聲稱自己擁有 「哈里發 」的精神稱號以及 「蘇丹 」的世俗稱號。
他們的官方稱號 Amir alMu'minin（「信徒的指揮官」）強調了他們的正統性不僅取決於家族和政治權力，也取決於宗教權威。
關於哈里發國，請參閱 H. A. R. Gibb, 「The Sunni Theory of the Caliphate,」 in Studies on the Civilization of Islam, eds. Stanford J. Shaw and William R. Polk (Boston, 1962), pp. 10. 字面意思是「給法國人民的尊貴者」(li-azim jins alfaransis)。
路易-菲利普的官方頭銜是 Roi de France，但 aş-Şaffär 通常稱他為 「蘇丹 」而非 「國王」(malik)，與 Makhzan 通信中的用法相同。

11. Al-khulafa ar-räshidün wal-a'imma al-muhtadün，指先知的直接繼承人，他們是後代信徒的行為典範。
12. 哈迪姆 (Khadim)。
馬赫贊的高官被稱為「僕人」，即使是在上層服務的人也是如此。

12. Khadim. Dozy 1:354; Laroui, Origines, p. 117。

13. qa'id 是由蘇丹任命的 Makhzan 官員，有多種職能。

qa'id 是由蘇丹任命的 Makhzan 官員，具有多種職能；在此為一個大城鎮的總督。
Ibn Zaydän, Izz, 1.

詞彙表，第 412 頁。

14. 負責財政的 Makhzan 官員。
Tetuan 的 amins 是港口的檢查員，負責收取海關稅，並根據蘇丹的命令付款。
Ibn Zaydän, Izz, 1. 詞彙，第 396-97 頁。

15. 字面意思是伊斯蘭學的學生，但在摩洛哥，這個稱號也適用於以商業為生的受過教育的人。
Laroui, Origines, pp.

16. Hadith 是關於先知及其同伴生活的神聖傳說的集合。

17. 這是 Muhammad aş-Şaffar。

18. 1845 年 12 月 13 日。

19. 這裡，一艘蒸汽船，來自西班牙蒸汽。
伊本紮伊丹，伊茲，1、

詞彙表，第 414 頁。

20. 阿拉伯文 qamra，源自西班牙文 cámara，船上的房間或船艙。

Dozy 2:403。

21. 古蘭經》17:67。

22. Muhammad Ibn al-'Arabi，著名的安達魯西亞神秘學家，638/1240 年死於大馬士革。
SEI, s.v. 「Ibn (al-) Arabi」。

23. 希臘人和羅馬人將大海理想化，但阿拉伯作家經常以厭惡的口吻談論大海。
據報導，埃及的阿拉伯征服者 「Amr b. al-As 曾寫信給哈里發歐瑪 (Caliph 」Umar) 說：
「海是一種偉大的生物，弱小的生物騎在上面，就像蟲子騎在木頭上一樣。
At-Tabari，Annales，ed. M. J. de Goeje et al. (Leiden, 1879-1901), 1:2821, anno 28 [648-49]，引自 Muqaddimah 2:39。
Abū al-Hasan Ali at-Tamgrūtī (Tamgrouti)，En-nafkhat el-miskiya fi-sifarat et-tourkiya 的作者：
 Relation d'une ambassade marocaine en Turquie, 1589-1591, trans. H. de Castries (Paris, 1929)，使用了類似的表達方式 (第 39 頁)。
儘管瀕臨大海，摩洛哥人很少選擇航海作為職業，當地的民間傳說也反映出他們對航海的恐懼。
請參閱 L. Brunot, La mer dans les traditions et les industries indigènes à Rabat et Salé (Paris, 1921), pp.

24. Rum 是中世紀阿拉伯語中對希臘拜占庭的稱謂；推而廣之，Rūmi 意指基督徒，而「Rüm 的土地」意指基督徒的歐洲。
根據 S. D. Goitein 的說法，說阿拉伯語的埃及猶太人 (Geniza 文件中) 「一直到十二世紀」 都在使用 Rūmi：
之後，Ifranji 一詞出現 (源自 「Frank」)，並區分東方 (Rūmīs) 和西方 (Ifränjis) 的歐洲人。
十三世紀之後，Geniza 信件中使用 Fransa 來指代法國。
Goitein, A Mediterranean Society, 5 vols. (Berkeley, 1967-88), 1:43.

在摩洛哥，歐洲人通常被稱為 naşārā，或 「Naza-renes」。
As-Saffär 使用下列詞彙：
 1) bilad ar-Rüm，他指的是基督教歐洲的所有土地；2) bilad al-Faransis，「法國人的土地」；3) Fransa，法國。
進一步的討論，請參閱 Lewis, Muslim Discovery, pp.

25. Ash-Sham，中世紀阿拉伯語中對敘利亞土地的稱呼。

26. 大西洋。

27. 摩洛哥語 「海峽」。
Harrell, 第 14 頁。
At-Tamgrūti 說這是土耳其語。
En-nafkhat, p. 4328. Qaşr aş-Şaghir 是遠征西班牙的出發點。

因此被稱為 Qaşr al-Jawaz，「通道要塞」。
E. Mi-

chaux-Bellaire, 「El-Qçar Eç-Çeghir,」 RMM 16, 12 (1911)：
 350. 29. 區域」(iqlim) 一詞來自希臘文 klima，意指地球表面的緯度部分。
Muqaddimah 1:111。

30. Ibn Khaldūn：
 「地球呈球形，被水包覆。
它可以比作浮在水面上的葡萄。
水從（地球）的某些部分退去... [大約] 球體表面的二分之一... [它]四面環海"。
Muqaddimah 1:94-95. 一個被稱為「的海」。

31. 見上文注 29。

32. Aş-Şaffar 留了空白，可能是因為他不知道；Ibn Khaldūn 也沒有提供相關資訊。

33. parasang，源自波斯語 farsang，原指一小時內步行的距離。
根據 Ibn Khaldün，它的長度為 12,000 立方呎，或約 3 英里。
Muqaddimah 1:96 及註 19。

34. 本節根據 Ibn Khaldün 的《第二篇序論》(Second Prefatory Discussion) 寫成，並加入當代地名和最新的歷史資料。
Muqaddimah 1:129-33, 139-43。

35. 梅利利亞 (Melilla) 於 1497 年被西班牙人佔領；巴迪斯 (Badis) 於 1564 年割讓給西班牙人。
C.-A. Julien, History of North Africa：
 C.-A. Julien, History of North Africa: Tunisia, Algeria, Morocco (London, 1970), pp.

36. 中世紀阿拉伯語中的突尼西亞。
Zakariya b. Muhammad b. Mahmüd al-Qazwīni, Āthār al-bilad wa-akhbar al-ibād (Beirut, n.d.). pp.

37. Abū al-'Abbas Ahmad b. Muhammad b. İsa al-Burnūsi al-Fasi，人稱 Zarrūq（生於 846/1442），著名的法學家，在整個北非備受尊崇。
Al-Qadiri (trans. Cigar), Nashr, p. 160 and note 13; LéviProvençal, Les historiens, p. 187 note 3.

38. 地點是 Sidra 灣 (khalij surt)，但 aş-Şaffär 使用的 kibrit 名稱在任何標準地理字典中都找不到。
Kibrit 是硫磺，對製造火藥和藥劑很重要；也許這個地區是硫磺的產地。
El 2, s.v. 「Kibrit」。

39. 中世紀阿拉伯地理學家應用於 al-Marj 鎮及其周圍地區的詞彙，位於古 Cyrenaica，即今日的利比亞。
El 2, s. v. 「Barka」.

40. 阿拉伯語 shana qal'a，源自土耳其語 çanakkale，由土耳其語 「çanak「（意指 」鍋「）和阿拉伯語 」qal'a「（意指 」堡壘」）組合而成。

41. 摩洛哥旅行者同時使用這兩個名稱。
Ibn Battüţa（14 世紀）解釋說：
「君士坦丁堡城的兩個部分之一是 Astanbül。
它位於河東岸"。
IB 2:508. At-Tamgrūti (16 世紀) 將其稱為君士坦丁堡。
En-nafkhat，第 43 頁。
關於這個名字的起源理論，請參閱 D. J. Georgacas, 「The Names of Constantinople,」 Transactions of the American Philological Association 78 (1947)：
 366-67; El 2, s. v. "Istanbul.」

42. 西西里在九世紀被 Aghlabids 征服，在阿拉伯人的統治下維持了將近兩百年。
Al-Qazwīni, Athar albilad, 第 215-16 頁；P. Hitti, The History of the Arabs (New York, 1967), 第 602-6 頁。

43. 穆斯林農曆的遷徙特性使其在農業上非常實用，在摩洛哥，即使在前殖民時代，月份也以拉丁名稱為人所知。
羅馬月曆用於日常說話，而穆斯林曆法則用於政府文件和宗教活動。
A. Joly, 「Un calendrier agricole marocain,」 AM 3, 2 (1905)：
 301-19; Dozy 1:425.

44. 「缺水和缺煤，再加上風很大，讓指揮官決定在這裡投放」。
AAE/CPM15/213。

Roches 致 Guizot，Port-Vendres，1845 年 12 月 17 日。

45. 馬車一詞是 kudshi（pl. akdash），來自西班牙文 coche。
這個詞在摩洛哥已經存在一段時間；它出現在 alGhassani 的 Iftikak 中，這是一份十七世紀西班牙的旅行報告（第 9 頁）。
十八世紀末，L. Chenier 寫道，Sultan Muhammad b. 'Abd Allah（1757-90 年）「從未在公眾場合露面，只有在馬背上或在他的 calesh 中」。
摩洛哥帝國現況》，2 卷（倫敦，1788 年），2:307-8。

46. 他們住在 Hôtel d'Orient。
AAE/CPM 15/215-16，Pourcet 致 Guizot，1845 年 12 月 19 日。
另請參閱 DAR 17578，Ash'ash to Sultan Mulay 'Abd ar-Rahman，20 Dhū al-Hijja 1261/20 December 1845。

2-2 OUR JOURNEY BY LAND FROM MARSEILLE TO PARIS

2-2 我們從馬賽到巴黎的陸路旅程

 

You should know that according to the rules of the road in this country, the traveler need not carry with him either food or bedding, or any of his worldly possessions. He need only take with him his dirhams, riyāls, or gold, for he can buy whatever he wants along the way. This is because most of the way is populated and the traveler leaves one settled place only to enter another. In each town, he will find a marketplace where everything he needs is sold, and a place to spend the night, called either a locanda or a posada. If there is a place for sleeping and eating, it is the second; but if there is only a place for sleeping and one must bring food from the marketplace,it is the first.

交通规则

你们应该知道，根据这个国家的交通规则，旅行者不需要随身携带食物、床铺或任何世俗财产。
他只需随身携带迪拉姆、里亚尔或黄金，因为他可以在沿途购买任何他想要的东西。
这是因为大部分路途上都是人烟稀少，旅行者离开一个定居的地方，就会进入另一个地方。
在每个城镇，他都会发现一个集市，在那里可以卖到他所需要的一切，还有一个可以过夜的地方，叫做 "locanda "或 "posada"。
如果有睡觉和吃饭的地方，那就是第二个地方；但如果只有睡觉的地方，而且必须从集市上带食物，那就是第一个地方。

This is a large house with many rooms, each with windows as tall as a man, which overlook the streets and markets below. In each room are one or more beds with sheets, a cover, and a mattress, all very soft and clean. The floor is usually carpeted with a fine rug which one walks on while wearing shoes, for it is not their custom to remove them except when getting into bed. The windows are covered with a curtain made of something like silk. There are also chairs for sitting, for they know nothing about sitting on the floor, nor would their clothing allow it because of the tightness of their trousers. In the middle of the room is a table of fine wood or marble for writing or reading. There is also a wardrobe made of wood that shines like a mirror and has drawers for keeping clothes or other things of value. Under each bed is a little box, and inside is a clean pot for relieving oneself.

房间

这是一座有很多房间的大房子，每个房间都有一人多高的窗户，可以俯瞰下面的街道和市场。
每个房间都有一张或多张床，床单、床罩和床垫都非常柔软干净。
地板上通常铺着细地毯，人们穿着鞋在上面行走，因为除了上床睡觉，他们没有脱鞋的习惯。
窗户上挂着类似丝绸的窗帘。
房间里还有供人坐的椅子，因为他们不懂得坐在地板上，他们的衣服也不允许他们坐在地板上，因为他们的裤子太紧了。
房间中间有一张上等木材或大理石做的桌子，用来写字或看书。
还有一个木制衣柜，像镜子一样闪闪发光，里面有抽屉，可以放衣服或其他值钱的东西。
每张床下面都有一个小盒子，里面有一个干净的盆子，可以用来解手。

Most of the large rooms are lit by many candles held in a cluster like stars. They also have one or two large mirrors on the wall, each so clear and tall that someone not paying close attention would think it an open way. Each room must have a pitcher for water set in a basin along with small, clean, folded towels for washing. In most of the rooms are pictures of the countryside, trees, people, animals, boats and the sea, and the like. This is a very important matter with them and they do not leave any place bare. The room might also have vases of flowers made of paper and covered with glass, so that their color will never fade, and sometimes a piano, which is one of their amusements and ways of making music.

 

大多数大房间里都点着许多蜡烛，像星星一样簇拥在一起。
墙上还挂着一两面大镜子，每一面镜子都是那么清晰、高大，不仔细看还以为是一条明路。
每个房间的脸盆里都必须有一个盛水的水壶，还有干净、折叠好的小毛巾供人清洗。
大多数房间里都挂着乡村、树木、人物、动物、船只和大海等图片。
这对他们来说是一件非常重要的事情，他们不会放过任何一个地方。
房间里还可能摆放着用纸做的花瓶，花瓶上覆盖着玻璃，这样花的颜色就不会褪色，有时还会摆放一架钢琴，这是他们的娱乐之一，也是他们演奏音乐的一种方式。

Each room must also have a small stove built of marble or the like in a pleasing shape, where a wood fire burns in cold and rainy weather. It has a chimney open to the outside. The room is not bothered by smoke in the least because the chimney is well made and the wood is clean and dry. This is a necessity in every room, whether its owner is humble or well-to-do. The room may also have an inkpot and pen and other implements for writing. All these things are the furnishings of their rooms, although there may be variations depending on the owner's wealth.

 

每个房间还必须有一个用大理石或类似材料砌成的小炉子，形状美观，在寒冷和下雨的天气里可以烧柴火。
炉子的烟囱通向室外。
因为烟囱做得很好，木柴也干净干燥，所以房间里丝毫没有烟味。
这是每个房间的必备条件，无论房间的主人是简陋还是富裕。
房间里可能还有墨斗、笔和其他书写用具。
所有这些都是他们房间的陈设，尽管会因主人的富裕程度而有所不同。

In this place are many servants, both male and female, as well as cooks and a kitchens containing all sorts of cooking equipment. When someone enters they take him upstairs to one of the rooms. If he desires food, he orders the servant to bring what he wants in the way of main dishes, fruits, and sweets. When he finishes eating and is ready to leave, the servant gives him a paper telling the price he must pay. If he wants a place to stay, he may choose whatever room he likes, according to his means. The servant brings everything and it is not necessary to call him for every small task, or to move from one's place when doing so. Inside every room is a rope, and each rope is connected to another. When it is pulled, its movement causes a bell to sound, bringing the servant quickly. The servant recognizes from which room it comes by a sign known to him.

男女仆人，厨师和厨房

这里有许多男女仆人，还有厨师和厨房，厨房里有各种烹饪设备。
当有人进来时，他们会把他带到楼上的某个房间。
如果他想吃东西，就会命令仆人端来他想要的主菜、水果和糖果。
当他吃完准备离开时，仆人会给他一张纸，告诉他必须支付的价格。
如果他想要住的地方，他可以根据自己的经济能力选择喜欢的房间。
仆人会带来各种东西，不需要为每件小事叫他，也不需要在叫他时离开自己的位置。
每个房间里都有一根绳子，每根绳子都连接着另一根绳子。
当绳子被拉动时，它的移动会使铃铛发出声响，从而使仆人迅速赶来。
仆人根据自己知道的标志，就能辨认出是从哪个房间来的。

As we have mentioned, travelers in that country need not carry provisions with them. Another rule is that travelers do not ride on the backs of saddled animals, or journey on foot, unless they are soldiers or poor people, Travel is by stagecoach or wagons drawn by horses. There are various kinds. One type is square and holds four people sitting two-by-two on benches facing each other, so that they can stretch out their legs underneath the opposite bench. It has windows of clear glass so the traveler can see the road, the world, and the people along the way. He can open them if he does not mind the heat or cold or the dust, but if he is bothered by them, he can close them, and the light and the view will stay with him. On each bench is a small cushion, and inside [the bench] is a place for putting a few small things. Everything is made from fine, unblemished wood-the floor, the sides, even the ceiling. In fact, it is like a room, and the rider need not fear wind or rain, heat or cold, because he is inside his room. If he wants to hide himself so that no one will see him, or if he is annoyed by the rays of the sun, he may lower the curtain over the windows.

马车

正如我们所提到的，在那个国家旅行的人不需要随身携带补给品。
另一条规定是，除非是士兵或穷人，否则旅行者不得骑在有鞍牲畜的背上，也不得步行。
马车有很多种。
一种是方形的，四人两两相对坐在长凳上，这样他们就可以在对面的长凳下伸腿。
车上有透明玻璃窗，旅行者可以看到道路、世界和沿途的人。
如果不介意冷热或灰尘，他可以打开窗户，但如果觉得不舒服，他可以关上窗户，光线和景色会一直陪伴着他。
每张长凳上都有一个小垫子，[长凳]里面还可以放一些小东西。
所有的东西都是用上等的无瑕疵的木头做成的，地板、侧面，甚至天花板。
事实上，这就像一个房间，骑马者不必害怕风吹雨打、酷暑严寒，因为他就在自己的房间里。
如果他想把自己藏起来，不让别人看到，或者如果他对阳光感到厌烦，他可以把窗帘拉下来。

Outside in front is a place for the driver, and in the rear a seat for another person, perhaps the driver's helper, or the servant of one of the passengers. The height [of the coach] is about two cubits from the ground, so that it is higher than that [type of small cart which is hitched to one or more horses. The driver can also ride one of the horses drawing the coach. He holds a switch in his hand to spur the animals to a fast gallop, for their speed is breakneck, like a cavalry charge.

 

前面是车夫的座位，后面是另一个人的座位，可能是车夫的助手，也可能是乘客的仆人。
马车]离地面的高度约为两肘，因此比那种[拴着一匹或多匹马的小车]要高。
车夫也可以骑一匹拉车的马。
他手持开关，鞭策马匹快速奔跑，因为它们的速度非常快，就像骑兵冲锋一样。

There is a long type [of vehicle] which accommodates a large number of people going in the same direction. If a person wishes to get off along the way, the driver will let him get down and then he will go on with the others. Most people who travel together in this way are related, such as a man and his wife, his children, and relatives, or a fellow and his friends, so they remain together during the journey. This type may have two levels, one on top of the other, or even separate compartments. They sometimes put the traveler's personal belongings or his wares on top, covering them to protect them from the elements. Another type accommodates just two people, and of this type there are many different kinds.

 

有一种长长的[车辆]，可以容纳很多人朝同一个方向前进。
如果有人想在途中下车，司机会让他下车，然后他再和其他人一起前行。
以这种方式一起旅行的大多数人都有亲属关系，例如男人和妻子、孩子和亲属，或者同伴和朋友，因此他们在旅途中一直在一起。
这种旅行包可能有两层，一层在另一层之上，甚至有单独的隔间。
他们有时会把旅行者的个人物品或行李放在上面，盖上盖子以防止风吹雨淋。
另一种篷车只能容纳两个人，这种篷车有很多种。

Yet another type is for carrying goods and heavy loads. It has no roof, but they cover it to keep off the rain by skillfully making arches from thin strips of wood and then stretching over them a heavy cloth, like the cloth for [making] sails. This cloth is then pulled tight and nailed down so that the goods are sheltered from the rain, as if they were in a tent. The driver also makes a place for himself under this covering, and the rain does not bother him either. In short, rain does not hinder travel in this country in any way, for it disturbs neither the traveler nor his goods; nor does it affect the road, as I am about to mention.

貨車

还有一种是用来运载货物和重物的。
它没有屋顶，但他们用细木条巧妙地做成拱门，然后在拱门上铺上厚厚的布，就像[制作]船帆的布一样，这样就可以遮风挡雨了。
然后将布拉紧并钉牢，这样货物就可以遮风挡雨，就像在帐篷里一样。
车夫也会在遮雨布下为自己留出一块地方，雨水也不会对他造成困扰。
总之，在这个国家，下雨丝毫不会妨碍旅行，因为雨水既不会打扰旅行者，也不会影响他的货物；雨水也不会影响道路，这一点我接下来会提到。

Other carts are made for carrying heavy loads such as stones or iron or the like. These are pulled by many horses hitched together, the number of horses depending on the quantity of weight to be drawn. This is not a great toil or labor for them. Even if the load is extremely heavy, only one person is needed to harness the animals or unhitch them. As for transferring goods, it is not necessary to unload them except at the end of the journey, for their weight rests on the cart harnessed to the draft animals and is pulled along by them.

 

其他的手推車是用來運載重物的，例如石頭或鐵器等。
這些車由許多匹馬拴在一起拉動，馬的數量取決於需要拉動的重量。
對他們來說，這並不是一件很辛苦的事。
即使是非常重的負荷，也只需要一個人來套馬具或解開馬具。
至於轉運貨物，除非在旅程結束時，否則不需要卸下貨物，因為貨物的重量都放在牽引牲口的車上，並由牲口拉著前行。

透過 DeepL.com（免費版）翻譯

Thus they handle huge loads easily, without difficulty or strain, and they carry nothing on the backs of animals. What one animal carries on its back, another could pull ten times over provided that the road is good. This is one of the sciences which they engage in the science of pulling heavy loads and they have hooks written on it. Along their roads you hear only the sounds of heavy loads and the rattling of the chains used to draw them. The movement of freight is slow, unlike the movement of the passenger vehicles, which is very swift.

拉重物的科學

因此，他們可以輕鬆地處理巨大的貨物，沒有任何困難或吃力，而且他們在動物背上什麼也不攜帶。
只要路況良好，一頭牲畜背上馱的東西，另一頭牲畜可以拉十倍以上。
這是他們拉重物的科學之一，他們在上面寫了鉤子。
在他們的道路上，你只能聽到重物的聲音，以及用來拉重物的鐵鏈的響聲。
貨運的速度很慢，不像客運車輛的速度非常快。

Speed is easy for them because of the smoothness of the roads, and their excellent state of repair. This is a great concern of theirs and a guiding principle in all matters. Their roads are like the floor of a room, with no bumps, holes, brambles, or stones to be seen. Wherever it begins to loosen up, they hurry to fix it, for they do not neglect its maintenance. Everywhere we passed we found piles of stones on both sides of the road to be used for repair. They crush them into jagged bits to strengthen their bond. If there is a hole somewhere, they fill it with these stones. The carts smooth out the road by grinding the stones into place when they pass, making it even firmer than before.

道路平整

對他們來說，速度很容易，因為道路平整，而且維修狀況良好。
這是他們非常關心的問題，也是所有事情的指導原則。
他們的道路就像房間的地板一樣，看不到顛簸、坑洞、荆棘或石頭。
不管哪裡開始鬆動，他們都會趕緊修補，因為他們不會忽略維護。
我們經過的每個地方，都發現路兩旁堆滿了用來修補的石頭。
他們把石頭碾成鋸齒狀，以加強它們的結合。
如果某處有洞，他們就用這些石頭填平。
推車經過時，會將石頭磨平，使道路比以前更堅固。

If the sides of the road have a slope, they build supports into them, and in most places the edges are planted with great trees which shade the road. There is not a river, ditch, or canal that does not have a bridge over it, and the entire length of our way we did not see one person fording a river on foot or on horseback. You will not find any obstacles on the road either. All is smooth and level, with nothing to upset an animal or a cart. Their concern about this is so great that in certain places we found people with brooms in their hands, smoothing over the tracks of the carts, lest others follow in them and make ruts that would ruin the road.

 

如果道路兩側有斜坡，他們就會在斜坡上建造支撐物，而且在大多數地方的邊緣都會種上大樹，為道路遮蔭。
沒有一條河流、溝渠或運河上沒有橋樑，在我們整個行程中，沒有看到一個人徒步或騎馬渡河。
您也不會在路上發現任何障礙物。
所有的路面都平整光滑，沒有任何東西會讓動物或手推車感到不安。
他們非常重視這一點，以至於在某些地方，我們發現有人手拿掃帚，將車軌抹平，以免其他人跟在車軌後面，弄出車痕來破壞道路。

Another example of their concern is that nearly every town has scales to weigh the wagons. The way they do it is with a thick wooden board mounted on something underneath that feels the weight, and descends according to it. They have marks for one qintar, for two, and so on up to ten. As the weight increases, the board goes down. Every cart arriving at that place must pass over this board. The horses are taken off, and the wagon is weighed. Then they examine the wheels" [to see] if they are proper for carrying that weight, because they have a limit for the wideness of the rim in proportion to the weight it bears. If the rim of the wheel is narrow and the load heavy, the wheel leaves a deep rut that will eventually cause damage to the road. They have another purpose in weighing carts, and it is to see whether the load is more or less than they say. The reason for this is that they have to pay taxes on certain goods on entering or leaving a town. They weigh them to make sure they do not carry anything hidden on which no tax was paid.

貨車稱重

他們關注的另一個例子是，幾乎每個鎮子都有秤來給貨車稱重。
他們的方法是用一塊厚木板裝在下面的東西上，用來感受重量，然後根據重量下降。
一磅有標記，兩磅有標記，依此類推直到十磅。
當重量增加時，木板就會下降。
到達該處的每輛車都必須經過這塊木板。
馬被卸下來，車子被稱重。
然後，他們檢查車輪"[看]它們是否適合承載這個重量，因為他們對輪緣的寬度有一個限制，與它所承載的重量成正比。
如果輪圈狹窄而負載很重，車輪就會留下很深的車轍，最終會對道路造成損害。
他們稱量推車還有另一個目的，就是看看負載是比他們說的多還是少。
原因是他們在進出城鎮時要為某些貨物繳稅。
他們會秤重，以確保沒有運載隱藏的未繳稅物品。

There are agents (wukala wa-nuqabā) along the road responsible Volle for its upkeep; they have no task other than this, and usually their houses are alongside. Another indication of their concern is that wherever a road divides, they erect a signpost, writing on it each road leads, and the condition of what lies ahead. At the sides ne S they have marked the miles" in chalk so that the traveler may know where te how much [distance] has passed since the point of departure, and how much lies ahead.

道路有代理人

沿著道路有代理人 (wukala wa-nuqabā)，負責 Volle 的維護；他們沒有其他任務，通常他們的房子就在路旁。
他們關心道路的另一個表現是，每當道路分叉時，他們就會立一個路標，上面寫著每條道路的走向，以及前方的情況。
在路的兩旁，他們用粉筆標明「哩數」，這樣旅行者就可以知道從出發的地點到這裡已經經過了多少[距離]，以及前方還有多少路要走。

It happens that travel in this country is easy both day and night, with no strain or toil, because there is complete security. The traveler need not be afraid of thieves or brigands, and for that reason you will not see anyone carrying weapons other than a soldier. The good condition of the roads allows people to travel any time of night or day, even deep in the countryside, because their towns do not close their gates and have only a night watch. Indeed, most of the towns do not have an enclosing wall or gate, so that whatever time you arrive, you may enter.

旅行安全

在這個國家旅行，無論白天還是黑夜都很輕鬆，沒有任何勞累或辛苦，因為有完全的安全保障。
旅行者不需要害怕盜賊或強盜，因此除了士兵之外，你不會看到任何人攜帶武器。
良好的道路狀況讓人們不論白天或黑夜，甚至是深入鄉間的任何時間都可以旅行，因為他們的城鎮不會關門，只有夜間才有守衛。
事實上，大多數城鎮都沒有圍牆或城門，所以無論何時到達，都可以進入。

Nor are the animals exhausted, for the horses and drivers are changed every hour. On the road are stables's that they call in their language the poste, where many horses are kept. When a traveler arrives here, he leaves his horses and takes fresh ones, along with a [new] driver. They go for an hour or so to another posthouse, where horses and driver are changed once again, so that the horses are always rested and may continue at the same fast pace. On our trip from Marseille to Paris, more than eight hundred horses were changed. We were in three coaches, each one drawn by ten horses: three, three, and four.

驛站

牲畜也不會疲憊不堪，因為馬匹和司機每小時都會更換一次。
路上有馬廄，他們用自己的語言稱之為 poste，那裡養了很多馬。
當旅行者到達這裡時，他會留下自己的馬，換上新的馬和[新的]司機。
他們要經過一小時左右才能到達另一個驛站，在那裡馬匹和司機又要重新更換一次，這樣馬匹就可以一直休息並繼續以同樣快的速度前進。
在我們從馬賽到巴黎的旅途中，有八百多匹馬被換過。
我們分乘三輛客車，每輛都有十匹馬拉著：
三匹、三匹、四匹。

Nor does the journey keep the traveler from sleeping, because he is at his ease inside the coach-although not entirely, because he cannot stretch out fully. But no matter what the circumstances, travel is always a bit of torture, just as it says in the Hadith, for it keeps you from the full enjoyment of sleep, among other things.

 

旅途也不會讓旅行者無法入睡，因為他在車廂內很自在--儘管不是完全自在，因為他無法完全伸展身體。
但無論在任何情況下，旅行總是有點折磨人的，就像聖經中所說的，因為它讓您無法充分享受睡眠，還有其他的事情。

[A Hadith: One day when the Prophet was sitting in front of the Ka'bas he was asked: "Why is travel a bit of torture?" And he answered at once: "Because of separation from one's loved ones." The Hadiths of Ibn 'Abbās and Ibn 'Umar" agree that travel is a bit of torture. One version has it: "Travel and profit from it!" while another says: "Travel and earn your livelihood!" and yet another says: "Travel and enjoy good health!" But travel does not have to improve one's health, so long as one has some benefit to show for it. Then it is not a bit of torture, but [simply] a hardship.

 

[一則聖訓：
 有一天，當先知坐在卡巴斯前時，有人問他：
 「為什麼旅行是一種折磨？」 他立刻回答：
「因為與親人分離」。
伊本-阿巴斯和伊本-歐麥爾的聖訓」一致認為旅行是一種折磨。
其中一個版本有 「旅行並從中獲利！」而另一個版本則說：
「旅行並謀生！」還有一個版本說：
「旅行並享受健康！」 但旅行不一定要改善健康，只要能帶來一些好處就行。
那麼它就不是一點折磨，而[只是]一種艱辛。

Whoever follows this road, traveling day and night, will arrive in Paris from Marseille in about three days. Letters and correspondence going from one city to the other take three days or less, even though the distance between them for a person traveling on horseback is close to a month.

 

沿著這條路日夜兼程的人，大約三天就可以從馬賽到達巴黎。
從一個城市到另一個城市，信件和信件之間的距離對一個騎馬旅行的人來說接近一個月，但信件和信件之間的距離卻只需要三天或更短的時間。

 

On our way we passed towns and villages, hills and valleys, and rolling countryside. You should know that these people do not have tents or huts for dwellings, for they know only buildings and nothing else, although the [style] of buildings in the countryside differs from that in the cities. In reality, their villages are like most of the [larger] towns, for one finds in them whatever is found in the big city in the way of marketplaces and goods for sale. On our way we witnessed at first hand unmistakable evidence of their foresight and all-consuming concern for the matters of daily life, for improving their means of livelihood, and for mastering their affairs. They are very diligent about filling up the landscape with buildings and plantings. They do not follow the easy path or stay in the company of laziness or neglect. You will not see any wasted or barren land, or ruined buildings. Wherever the soil is poor, they move good soil to it from another place. They give every kind of land what it needs. Land that will benefit from plowing is plowed, [land] that is good for planting is planted. Furthermore, they make a distinction in planting between what thrives in heavy soil and what grows in light, and earth and stones good for building are set aside for that.

土地

一路上，我們經過城鎮、村落、山丘、山谷和綿延起伏的鄉間小路。
你應該知道，這些人的住所沒有帳篷或小屋，因為他們只懂建築，不懂其他，儘管鄉間的建築[風格]與城市不同。
實際上，他們的村莊就像大多數 [較大的] 城鎮一樣，因為在他們的村莊中，人們可以找到大城市中的任何集市和待售商品。
我們在途中親眼目睹了他們的遠見和對日常生活、改善生計和管理事務的全心關注。
他們非常勤奮地用建築和種植來填滿景色。
他們不隨波逐流，也不與懶惰或疏忽為伍。
您不會看到任何荒廢或貧瘠的土地，或破壞的建築物。
在土壤貧瘠的地方，他們會把好的土壤從另一個地方移到那裡。
他們給予每種土地所需的東西。
有利於耕種的土地就耕種，有利於種植的土地就種植。
此外，他們在種植時會區分在厚土中茁壯成長的植物和在薄土中生長的植物，並會為此預留適合建築的泥土和石頭。

 

Their trees are almost entirely cultivated, even if they are at the tops of mountains or deep within gullies. 20 They leave no spot bare, and even plant trees by ditches and streams and on the banks of rivers, yet they are not swept away. They do not neglect their up-keep, and prune them whenever necessary. Nor is their concern limited to fruit-bearing trees, for they are few in number compared with others. Most trees bear no fruit, their only benefit being shade, firewood, and lumber. As for fruit trees, the olive is plentiful in the region of Toulon and Marseille, but it does not become overgrown as it does in Morocco. Usually [the trees] are harvested from the ground and deliberately kept small so the fruit will grow large and the limbs strong. The oil is exceptionally sweet and clear. In fact there is a saying about French olive oil that goes like this: "Take a little of it to other parts because of its sweetness."

種植樹木

他們的樹木幾乎都是栽培的，即使是在山頂或深溝裡。
20 他們不遺漏任何地方，甚至在溝渠、溪流和河岸種植樹木，但這些樹木也不會被捲走。
他們不忽略樹木的養護，必要時會修剪樹木。
他們所關心的也不僅限於會結果的樹木，因為與其他樹木相比，這些樹木的數量很少。
大多數樹木都不結果，它們唯一的好處就是遮蔭、燒柴和製造木材。
至於果樹，土倫（Toulon）和馬賽（Marseille）地區盛產橄欖，但不會像摩洛哥一樣雜草叢生。
通常 [樹木] 都是從地裡採收，並刻意保持小樹，這樣果實才會長得大，樹枝才會強壯。
橄欖油特別甜美清澈。
事實上，有句關於法國橄欖油的諺語是這樣說的：
「拿一點到其他地方去」：
 「因為它的甜味，所以帶一點到其他地方」。

 

There are also many almond trees, particularly in the region of Marseille and its environs. They have both the sweet and the bitter almond, and their appreciation for the bitter is the same as for the sweet, or perhaps greater, for they use it in pastry and in soap-making, among other things. They have many walnut and mulberry trees, but the male of the species is more common there than the female. Also there are apples, pears, plums, peaches, and cherries, but few apricots, according to what we saw. They keep fruit throughout the year by drying it and preserving it with sugar; no table would be without it. Likewise, fig trees are sparse, and we saw only a few in the region of Marseille and Toulon.

 

法國也有許多杏仁樹，尤其是在馬賽及其周邊地區。
他們既有甜杏仁，也有苦杏仁，他們對苦杏仁的欣賞與甜杏仁相同，甚至更甚，因為他們用苦杏仁製作糕點和肥皂等。
他們有許多胡桃樹和桑樹，但是雄性比雌性更常見。
他們也有蘋果、梨、李子、桃子和櫻桃，但根據我們所見，杏子很少。
他們一年四季都會把水果曬乾，用糖保存，餐桌上少不了水果。
同樣地，無花果樹也很稀少，我們只在馬賽和土隆地區看到幾棵。

Orange trees are plentiful there, but they keep them in boxes.21 If it is a hot, summery day, they put them outside in the open air; if it is cold, snowy, or rainy, they bring them in for fear of their withering. In Paris we saw many rooms having windows and a roof of glass, in which they were set out in perfect order. On a sunny day,the [rooms] are opened up to let the air in; on a cold day they are closed. These boxes are huge, as are the trees in them. The date on one box showed that [the tree] was more than four hundred years old. They bring the boxes in and out with much pushing and pulling, to which they are quite accustomed. We did not see oranges planted in the ground, except a few in the region of Toulon. They told us that they also grow on an island in the sea facing Toulon.* Pomegranate trees are quite rare, and we saw them too in the [glassed-in] rooms.

 

21 如果是炎熱的夏天，他們會把橘子放在外面的露天場所；如果是寒冷、下雪或下雨天，他們會把橘子帶進來，因為他們害怕橘子枯萎。
在巴黎，我們看到很多房間都有玻璃窗和玻璃屋頂，房間裡的擺設井然有序。
在陽光普照的日子裡，這些 [房間] 會打開，讓空氣進入；在寒冷的日子裡，這些 [房間] 則會關閉。
這些箱子很大，裡面的樹木也很大。
其中一個箱子上的日期顯示 [這棵樹] 已有四百多年的樹齡。
他們推拉著箱子進進出出，已經習慣了。
我們沒有看到橘子 除了土隆地區的一些地方。
他們告訴我們，在面向土倫的海中一個島上也種植了石榴。
*石榴樹相當罕見，我們在[裝有玻璃的]房間裡也看到了石榴樹。

Most of their trees are of the poplar variety, which grows magnificently tall. They are useful for the shade they give on hot days, and for the wood of their limbs and trunk. Firewood is a matter of great concern among them. The seller of wood there is like the seller of gold, because the kindling of a fire in every room on a cold day is of the utmost importance. You will see large open spaces heaped with wood, all of it dry, clean, and cut into short lengths of about a cubit. Wood is sold by weight, not by the load. They do not have open woodlands for gathering firewood, but each one cuts wood from his own property, planting trees in his fields and gardens for that purpose. A forest is the property of its owner and is not open to everyone.

森林柴火

他們大部分的樹都是楊樹，長得非常高大。
這些樹在炎熱的天氣下可以遮蔭，其樹枝和樹幹的木材也很有用。
柴火是他們非常關心的問題。
在那裡，賣木材的人就像賣黃金的人一樣，因為在寒冷的日子裡，在每個房間生火是最重要的。
您會看到一大片空地上堆滿了木頭，所有的木頭都是乾燥、乾淨、切成一立方英吋左右的短條。
木材是按重量出售的，而不是按負重出售。
他們沒有開闊的林地來收集木柴，但每個人都從自己的財產中砍柴，並在田地和花園中種植樹木作為砍柴之用。
森林是其主人的財產，並非對所有人開放。

They have rules about the cutting of trees, one of them being that he who has a forest must divide it according to when the trees mature. If they reach maturity in ten years, then [the owner) divides it into ten sections, [planting] a section each year. If it takes thirty [years], then he makes thirty [sections], so that when he cuts the last section, he will find that what he cut first has once again reached maturity. Another [rule] is that he may not cut a tree until an inspector approves it. If the wood suits the states for shipbuilding or the like, [the inspector] will stamp it with his stamp, claiming it when he wishes, but only after paying the price. But if the wood is not suited for that, then the owner is free to cut it for himself after paying a tax on the trees. Although trees are found everywhere in their country, not a single piece of wood is unclaimed, not even a twig. They watch over all of it, large and small, and do not permit it to leave their hands except at a price.

砍伐樹木的規定

他們有砍伐樹木的規定，其中之一是擁有森林的人必須根據樹木的成熟時間來分割森林。
如果樹木在十年內成熟，那麼 [擁有者] 將森林分成十個部分，每年 [種植] 一個部分。
如果需要三十年，那麼他就分成三十[段]，這樣，當他砍下最後一段時，他會發現他先砍下的樹木已經再次成熟。
另一項[規則]是，他必須得到主管的批准，才能砍伐樹木。
如果木材適合造船或其他類似用途，[檢查員] 會在木材上蓋上他的印章，並在他想要的時候認領，但必須先付錢。
但如果木頭不適合做那種用途，那麼物主就可以在繳納樹木稅之後，自由地為自己砍伐。
儘管在他們的國家，樹木隨處可見，但沒有一塊木頭是無人認領的，甚至連樹枝也沒有。
他們看管著所有的木材，無論大小，除非付出代價，否則不允許木材離開他們的手。

Another of their rules, and a basic tenet of their legal code, 27 is that the whole of France is inviolable, and no one is allowed to trespass on the property of another. 28 Whoever does so is punished with a penalty that is known to all. And there is no way of pleading or paying one's way out of it. Along the road we saw low hedges separating the [public] way from private land. One of our [French] companions told us that he who steps over the line with one foot is imprisoned for five years, and he who stands completely inside [is jailed] for fifteen. So you do not see anyone, man or beast, wandering about on the property of another, even if it is an open field. The owner alone uses his land, not sharing it with others; even his animals are allowed to graze on it only rarely. The mainstay [for the animals] is cut forage. Each person plants on his own land whatever he harvests for food or forage during the year, using it himself or selling it to others. We did not see any pastureland where forage grew [untended], as we have here in Morocco.

不允許剝奪他人的財產

他們的另一條規則，也是其法典的基本原則，27 就是整個法國都不容侵犯，任何人都不允許剝奪他人的財產。
28 任何這樣做的人都會受到眾所周知的懲罰。
而且沒有任何辯解或補償的辦法。
沿著道路，我們看到低矮的籬笆將 [公共] 道路與私人土地分隔開來。
我們的一位[法國]同伴告訴我們，用一隻腳跨過籬笆的人會被監禁五年，而完全站在籬笆內的人[會被監禁]十五年。
因此，你不會看到任何人，無論是人還是牲畜，在他人的土地上遊蕩，即使那是一片空地。
土地的主人獨自使用他的土地，不與他人分享；即使是他的牲畜，也只允許在很少的情況下放牧。
牲畜的主要食物是割下的草料。
每個人都會在自己的土地上種植一年中收穫的食物或草料，自己使用或賣給他人。
我們沒有看到任何牧場的草料是[無人照料的]，就像我們在摩洛哥一樣。

 

Another benefit of the trees mentioned above is the huge timbers which help in building and other tasks, and the boards from which they make doors, boxes, and things of wood such as ships, boats, masts, and the like. They train a tree from an early age to grow straight as a shaft, so that it is suitable for masts and so on. Their need for wood in building is great because the partitions between rooms are painted wood. One realizes this only after a close inspection. Only the exterior walls are built of stone.

木材

上面提到的樹木的另一個好處是巨大的木材，有助於建築和其他工作，他們用木板製造門、箱子和木制的東西，如船、舟、桅杆等。
他們從很小的時候就開始訓練一棵樹，讓它長得像豎井一樣直，這樣就適合製作桅杆等。
他們在建築方面對木材的需求很大，因為房間之間的隔板都是油漆過的木材。
只有在仔細檢查之後才能發現這一點。
只有外牆是用石頭建造的。

In planting trees, they align them in a way that is marvelous to the point of perfection. They make the rows equal and the lines parallel, so that not a single tree protrudes out from the next. You see long alleys between the rows of trees with no undulations; all the rows appear to be connected and absolutely straight. They put them in lines and sections according to their various kinds. Because of this arrangement in planting, the rest of the land is left free for plowing. Usually they do not leave cropland entirely bare, but grow trees at the edges, which does not prevent them from working the middle.

種樹排列

在種樹時，他們將樹木排列得非常完美。
他們讓行列相等，線條平行，因此沒有一棵樹會從下一棵樹中伸出來。
你會看到樹行之間有一條長長的小巷，沒有任何起伏；所有的樹行看起來都是連成一線，絕對筆直。
他們根據不同的種類將樹木排列成不同的線條和區段。
由於這樣的種植安排，其餘的土地都可以空出來耕種。
通常他們不會讓耕地完全裸露，而是在邊緣種植樹木，但這並不妨礙他們在中間耕作。

They have a great concern, one might even say an obsession, for the cultivation of the grape. Their vineyards are even more numerous than their croplands because of their passion for wine, which is one of their necessities of life. If you spilled out all their wine, it would fill up the sea. As for the arable land, it is sufficient when well tended. In the region of Paris there is much good land, and the flour of Paris is extremely white and pure.

葡萄園

他們對葡萄的種植非常關注，甚至可以說是痴迷。
他們的葡萄園甚至比耕地還多，因為他們熱愛葡萄酒，葡萄酒是他們的生活必需品之一。
如果您把他們所有的葡萄酒都倒出來，就會滿溢大海。
至於耕地，只要好好耕作就足夠了。
巴黎地區有很多良田，而且巴黎的麵粉非常白淨。

 

Another of their rules of planting is that the state gives a prize to whoever excels over others in farming, thereby encouraging each one to work hard and harvest more than the rest. Another of their rules is that if their land produces sufficient grain, they are not allowed to import grain from outside. Even if it comes in only to be milled and leaves again, its entry and exit will be by weight, lest some of it stay behind and ruin the market for the grain grown in their own country. Otherwise they might become lax in planting, and in the future run short. However, if their yield is insufficient, they are permitted to buy it from other lands, and they exempt it from taxes to encourage its coming from afar. Most of their land is not fertile and verdant like the land of Morocco. The soil is not flattened down by constant walking, yet once the crops have been harvested, it stays heavy, hard, and coarse, despite the constant digging, working, and manuring. They get out of it what they can. We did not see any of the green grass or new growth that we have here in winter.

獎勵耕作

他們的另一項種植規則是，誰在耕作方面比別人優勝，國家就會給予獎勵，從而鼓勵每個人努力工作，比其他人多收穫一些。
他們的另一個規則是，如果他們的土地生產了足夠的穀物，他們就不用從外面進口穀物。
即使穀物只是進來碾磨後再離開，其進出也要以重量計算，以免部分穀物滯留，破壞自己國家種植穀物的市場。
否則，他們可能會疏於種植，以至於將來糧食短缺。
但是，如果他們的產量不足，他們可以從其他國家購買，並且免稅，以鼓勵遠道而來的糧食。
他們的土地大多不像摩洛哥的土地一樣肥沃翠綠。
土壤不會因為不斷的行走而變平，然而一旦作物收成後，儘管經過不斷的挖掘、耕作和施肥，土壤仍然是沉重、堅硬和粗糙的。
他們能從中得到什麼就得到什麼。
我們沒有看到任何綠色的草或新的生長，就像我們在這裡的冬天一樣。

On our way we saw many rivers and streams, all of them navigated by large and small boats, and even steamers. Their riverboats are long and flat-bottomed, since the rivers are not deep like the ocean; but what they take off from their depth, they add to their length. Boats are found in small rivers as well as large ones, for if the river is too shallow, they dig it out, widening its course until the boat can pass. Nor do they limit themselves to rivers that open up to others naturally, but make it happen by excavating in between. If two rivers run parallel with no connection, they make a channel allowing boats to pass from one to the other. You will not see a river with its banks silted up, or one deviating from its course, or other results of neglect. Instead, they keep them in perfect condition. Most of the riverbanks are solidly built up.

河道

一路上，我們看見了許多河流和小溪，這些河流和小溪都有大大小小的船隻航行，甚至還有蒸汽船。
他們的河船又長又平底，因為河水不像海洋那麼深；但是他們從河水的深度減去的部分，又加到了河水的長度上。
小河和大河都有船，因為如果河水太淺，他們會把河道挖開，把河面擴闊，直到船可以通過為止。
它們也不只限於自然開通的河流，而是透過在兩河之間挖掘，讓它成為可能。
如果兩條河流並行但沒有任何連接，他們就會開闢出一條河道，讓船隻可以從一條河駛到另一條河。
您不會看到河岸淤塞、偏離河道或其他疏忽的結果。
相反地，他們讓河岸保持完美狀態。
大多數的河岸都建得很堅固。

If there is a road running alongside, they often build up its edge as part of the riverbank, shoring it with heavy stone posts. Then they stretch long pieces of wood along the tops of the posts, nailing them in place. This keeps the road from being ruined and the carts from tipping over; it also prevents the barrier from sliding down the slope.

 

如果河岸旁有道路，他們通常會將道路邊緣築成河岸的一部分，並用沉重的石柱支撐起來。
然後，他們沿著柱子的頂端伸展長木塊，用釘子將它們釘到位。
這樣可以防止道路被毀壞，也可以防止推車翻倒；同時還可以防止護欄從斜坡上滑下。

There are many rivers in that country. Among the largest and most renowned that we passed is a river called the Rhône, which appears in the outskirts of the city of Lyon, where it meets another called the Saône. It leaves Lyon heading east and ends in the Small Sea west of Marseille. 3º On its way it meets other rivers, which add to it and increase its waters so that in some places it seems like a sea, with large steamers traveling on it. And they call all of it the Rhône. Along its banks between Lyon and Marseille are many towns and huge bridges of different types, and forests and vineyards. It swells with a plentitude of rain, and diminishes with a lack of it, but its trees and embankments are not affected by floods because their construction is solid.

著名的河流

這個國家有許多河流。
在我們經過的最大、最著名的河流中，有一條叫羅納河（Rhône）的河流，它出現在里昂市郊，在那裡與另一條叫索恩河（Saône）的河流相遇。
它離開里昂向東而去，終點在馬賽以西的小海（Small Sea）。
3º 它在途中與其他河流相遇，這些河流增加了它的水量，使它在某些地方看起來像一片海，有大型蒸汽船在上面航行。
他們稱之為羅納河。
里昂和馬賽之間的河岸上有許多城鎮和不同類型的巨型橋樑，還有森林和葡萄園。
雨水充沛時，河水會漲大，雨水不足時，河水會減少，但河岸上的樹木和堤防不會受到洪水的影響，因為它們的結構非常堅固。

A river called the Loire flows between Lyon and Paris and then westward until it empties into the Great Sea. We saw it first on our way to Paris in the city of Roanne, and we never left it until we passed Orléans, which is on the last stage of the route to Paris. It too has towns and farmland along its banks; large boats travel on it. It connects with [lesser] streams, but all of it is called the Loire. It passes through many villages, and in some places it is crossed by marvelous bridges of different shapes, even in the midst of towns, about which I shall say more later. Another river, called the Seine, flows through the city of Paris, as I mentioned, heading west until it reaches the Great Sea. These are the largest rivers we saw, but there are many small ones and almost all flow into one another; and if not, it is made to happen, as I have said.

 

有一條河叫盧瓦爾河，流經里昂和巴黎之間，然後向西流，直到注入大海。
我們在前往巴黎的途中首先在羅阿納市 (Roanne) 看到了它，直到我們經過奧爾良 (Orléans) 才離開它，奧爾良是前往巴黎的最後一站。
它的沿岸也有城鎮和農田；大船在上面航行。
它與較小的溪流相連，但全部都稱為盧瓦爾河。
它經過許多村莊，有些地方甚至在城鎮中也有不同形狀的奇妙橋樑穿過，關於這一點我稍後會再詳述。
另一條河叫塞納河（Seine），流經巴黎市，正如我所提到的，向西一直流到大海。
這些是我們看到的最大的河流，但也有很多小河，而且幾乎都是互相流向的；如果不是這樣，那也是造化弄人，我已經說過了。

Most of the goods transported on river boats are heavy, such as stone, wood, coal, building materials, vegetables, fruits, and the like. Most of the road [between Marseille and Paris) is flat and level. We did not see any towering peaks such as we have" except in the region of Lyon, where there are hills and even mountains. But they outwit the sharp incline by making the road turn with it, so that one does not feel the strain. If it is a small mountain they cut the road through it so that the carriages move along easily. Between Lyon and Paris the country is hilly, but close to Paris it is all valleys and lowlands, with no mountains at all. The most difficult [terrain] was between Aix and Toulon, where exhausting hills and steep rises made the carriage move slowly.

河船、道路

河船上運送的貨物大多很重，例如石頭、木材、煤炭、建築材料、蔬菜、水果等等。
馬賽和巴黎之間）的大部分道路都是平坦的。
除了里昂地區有丘陵甚至山脈之外，我們沒有看到任何像我們所見的高聳山峰」。
但他們通過讓道路隨坡度轉彎來克服急坡，這樣人們就不會感到吃力。
如果是一座小山，他們會在山中開闢道路，使馬車可以輕鬆前行。
里昂和巴黎之間是丘陵地形，但靠近巴黎的地方都是山谷和低地，完全沒有高山。
艾克斯和土倫之間的 [地形] 最為艱難，令人精疲力竭的山丘和陡峭的坡度讓馬車移動緩慢。

The whole way is settled, especially between Marseille and Lyon, with towns crowded close together, even more so than between Lyon and Paris, where the land is often empty; yet even there you are always in sight of towns or villages. The houses are found alongside the road, either singly or in groups, with no vacant places between. You will not pass anywhere without seeing a building, a village, a house, or a cluster of houses, either close by or within view. Even in each vineyard there is a dwelling place for its attendant and his family.

 

一路上都是居民區，尤其是在馬賽和里昂之間，城鎮緊密地擠在一起，甚至比里昂和巴黎之間還要密集，那裡經常是一片空地；但即使在那裡，您也總能看到城鎮或村落。
道路兩旁的房屋或單獨或成群結隊，中間沒有空曠的地方。
你經過任何地方，都會看到一棟建築物、一個村莊、一間房子或一組房子，不是就在附近，就是就在眼前。
甚至在每個葡萄園中，都有一個供園主及其家人居住的地方。

Everything along the road belongs to the town. Often the road passes through its midst, opening a way between its markets and shops. Either within the town or just beyond are all the crafts necessary to the wayfarer, such as carriage and cart makers, or blacksmiths who shoe horses and make tools. If the traveler needs to make repairs, he can find a place for it close at hand. Also along the way are taverns for travelers, and many posthouses to rent horses for the carriages and wagons. Whatever the traveler needs will be found nearby.

城鎮

道路兩旁的一切都屬於城鎮。
道路經常從城鎮中間穿過，在市場和商店之間開闢出一條道路。
鎮內或鎮外都有旅行者所需的手藝，如馬車和手推車製造商，或為馬穿鞋和製作工具的黑鐵匠。
如果旅行者需要維修，他可以在附近找到地方。
沿途也有供旅行者使用的酒館，以及許多出租馬匹的驛站。
旅客需要什麼，附近就有什麼。

As for the towns and cities we passed on our way, the first was Marseille, where we disembarked. It is a large city, one of the centers of civilization of France. It has no wall on the side facing the sea, but its port is fortified with cannon on all sides. It has a narrow entryway with huge beacons to guide [ships] at night. There are many cafés in the port; they are of the finest and richest decoration. The port forms a deep inlet next to the town, and lies between it and a small mountain. Its quays are built like those of Port-Vendres. In the port there are boxes anchored in place with many large holes. Whoever wishes to enter the port ties a rope to [one of the boxes] and hauls on it to pull the ship in, because there is no wind inside the port.

馬賽

至於我們途中經過的城鎮，第一個是馬賽，我們在那裡下船。
這是一座大城，是法國的文明中心之一。
它面海的一面沒有城牆，但它的港口四面都設有大炮。
它有一個狹窄的入口，有巨大的燈塔在夜晚引導 [船舶]。
港口內有許多咖啡館；裝潢都是最優美、最豐富的。
港口在城鎮旁邊形成了一個很深的入海口，位於城鎮和一座小山之間。
它的碼頭建造得與 Port-Vendres 港口一樣。
港口內有許多固定的箱子，上面有許多大洞。
想進港的人會把繩子綁在 [其中一個箱子] 上，然後拉著繩子把船拖進去，因為港口裡面沒有風。

It is not a port for corsairs or ships of war, but rather for ships of trade. We found so many ships loaded with goods there, we could not find a way between them. They said there were more than a thousand, for this is a city of commerce. Merchants from every clime come here, and goods and manufactures from all over France.

 

這不是一個供海盜或戰船停靠的港口，而是供貿易船停靠的港口。
我們發現那裡有許多滿載貨物的船隻，我們找不到它們之間的通道。
他們說有一千多艘，因為這是一座商業城市。
來自世界各地的商人，以及來自法國各地的貨物和製造業。

 

Goods that are not French are rare, except those things they import because of their scarcity or absence in their own country. If goods are brought in and they [already] have them, they make the tax³s on them excessive, so that the demand for them will not be greater than for their own. In this way they protect their own crafts, lest they be abandoned for lack of a market.

貨物、關稅

非法國的貨品很少見，除了那些他們因為在自己國家稀缺或缺乏而進口的東西。
如果有貨物進來，而他們[已經]擁有這些貨物，他們就會對這些貨物徵收過高的稅項，這樣對這些貨物的需求就不會大於對他們自己貨物的需求。
這樣，他們就可以保護自己的工藝品，以免因缺乏市場而被拋棄。

In this city are lofty houses and imposing buildings, exquisite shops with all kinds of goods, and very elegant people. The shops in the port are next to the quays, and large and small ships come right up to them; the wall is built of huge rocks with only a roadway separating it from the shops. The streets are wide, with room on each side for those on foot; the middle is kept for carriages and carts. Something exceedingly disgusting is the filth and refuse flowing everywhere down the middle of the street, urine and even excrement; but they do not seem to mind it, and it is sold at a price. People charged with the task go about collecting it in large buckets, drying it for fertilizer.

街道污物和垃圾，尿液排泄物

在這座城市裡，有高聳的房屋和壯觀的建築，有各式各樣商品的精緻商店，還有非常優雅的人們。
港口的商店緊鄰碼頭，大小船舶都會駛到碼頭；牆壁由巨大的岩石築成，與商店之間只隔著一條道路。
街道很寬，兩邊都有足夠的空間供步行者使用，中間則是供馬車和手推車使用。
令人厭惡的是，街道中間隨處流淌著污物和垃圾，尿液甚至是排泄物；但他們似乎並不介意，而且這些東西都是有價出售的。
負責這項工作的人會用大桶去收集，然後曬乾作肥料。

All of their streets open onto one another, with no blind alleyways. There are wide open places lined with trees, where people come on days of heat to promenade under their shade. One of the most famous neighborhoods is known as Borély, a place of trees and fountains where most of the houses of the notables and people of wealth are located.

 

他們所有的街道都是相通的，沒有盲道。
街道兩旁種滿了樹，在炎熱的日子裡，人們會到樹蔭下散步。
最著名的社區之一是 Borély，這裡綠樹成蔭、噴水潺潺，是名流和富豪的居所。

 

This city is the seat of one of the provinces of France, and it governs over the surrounding district. In the whole of France there are eighty-five or eighty-six provinces, each containing a large city and the smaller towns around. Each province has two governors,one for the army and the other for the common folk. The governor of the people is equal to a qā'id al-bilād in our own land, but the rank of governor of the army is higher. 38 Their seat is the [main] city of the province they govern, and each of them has deputies under his authority. The province of Marseille and its district includes Toulon and the city of Aix, which I shall mention later.

行省

這座城市是法國其中一個省的所在地，管轄周圍區域。
整個法國有八十五或八十六個省，每個省都包含一個大城市和周圍的小城鎮。
每個省有兩位省長，一位是軍隊省長，另一位是平民省長。
人民的總督等同於我們自己土地上的 qā'id al-bilād，但軍隊的總督等級較高。
38 他們的所在地是他們所管轄省的[主要]城市，每個人都有屬於他的副手。
馬賽省及其地區包括土倫（Toulon）和艾克斯城（Aix），我稍後會提到。

 

The outskirts of [Marseille] are crowded and bustling with life, with buildings one right after another. You go beyond it for a distance, yet you still seem to be in the midst of the town. The people of Marseille wanted to bring water from a river about three days away, near the city of Avignon, and they paid a great sum of money for this. But the water still has not come, although they are a great effort, digging deep channels under the mountains and building enormous aqueducts between them. They are digging with the help of steam engines that take mountains of dirt out of the bowels of the earth. 39 They also are hard at work building a new port, for the old one is silted up with filth and waste from the town, its waters black and putrid. They want to make an improved one north of the present one, using the same well-made entryway we mentioned above. 40

 

馬賽]的郊區人煙稠密、熙來攘往，建築物一座挨著一座。
你越過它一段距離，卻似乎仍在城中。
馬賽人想從大約三天路程外，靠近阿維尼翁城的河流引水，他們為此付出了一大筆錢。
但是水仍然沒有來，儘管他們是下了很大的功夫，在山下挖了很深的渠道，並在渠道之間建造了巨大的引水道。
他們用蒸氣發動機從地底挖出堆積如山的泥土。
39 他們還在努力建造一個新港口，因為舊港口已被鎮上的穢物和廢物淤塞，海水又黑又臭。
他們想在現有港口的北面建造一個改良的港口，使用我們上面提到的那個製作精良的入口。
40

After our departure from Marseille we went on to a city called Aix, which is smaller than Marseille and part of its district. Here are shops, markets, hotels, and a military garrison." It is especially renowned among the French because of its scholarship in the law. Whoever in the district of Marseille is convicted of murder will be executed in this town, because it is here that judgment takes place.

 

離開馬賽後，我們繼續前往一個叫艾克斯的城市，它比馬賽小，是馬賽區的一部分。
這裡有商店、市集、旅館和駐軍"。
這座城市在法國人中特別有名，因為它在法律方面的學問。
在馬賽區，無論誰被判謀殺罪，都會在這個城鎮被處決，因為審判是在這裡進行的。

透過 DeepL.com（免費版）翻譯

 

In Aix we saw a huge cross made of wood standing on one side of the town square. At its top was a smaller bit of wood made into the likeness of a crucified man, naked except for a cloth covering his maleness. What a sight it was! We were terrified to see it and thought that he was a criminal they had hung there, for without a doubt, whoever saw it [would think it] was a crucified man. I asked about this and they told me that it was the deity and the crucifix which they worshipped. They claim he is Jesus, that is to say, a likeness of him crucified. And there is no doubt that they believe in his divinity just as the Koran tells us, and there is no doubt about the untruth of their claim and the falsity of their belief. "For they have no knowledge of it, and only follow conjecture."43 Those are the words of their mouths, which is [false] like the speech of those who become infidels just before they die. My God how they lie! This is the cross set up in their churches to worship and glorify, and which Jesus, may peace be unto him, will break upon his return, refuting the falsehood of their belief and the wrongheadedness of the Christian religion.

十字架矗立在市鎮廣場

在艾克斯，我們看到一個巨大的木頭十字架矗立在市鎮廣場的一側。
在十字架的頂端，有一小塊木頭被做成一個被釘在十字架上的人的樣子，他全身赤裸，只有一塊布遮住他的男性器官。
那是何等的景象！我們看了都很害怕，還以為他是被掛在那裡的罪犯，因為毫無疑問，不管誰看了都會以為他是被釘在十字架上的人。
我問起這件事，他們告訴我那是他們崇拜的神和十字架。
他們聲稱他是耶穌，也就是耶穌被釘在十字架上的肖像。
毫無疑問，他們相信他的神性，就像《古蘭經》告訴我們的一樣，毫無疑問，他們的聲稱是不真實的，他們的信仰是虛假的。
「因為他們對此毫無認識，只是依循猜測。
」43 那是他們的口中之言，就像那些臨死前變成異教徒的人的言辭一樣，是[虛假的]。
我的天啊！他們怎麼說謊呢？這是他們在教會中所豎立的十字架，是他們所崇拜的，是他們所歌頌的；耶穌（愿主福安之）再來的時候，必打破這個十字架，駁斥他們信仰的謬誤，駁斥基督宗教的錯誤。

[A Hadith:] Al-Qastallānī in his commentary on the Şahih mentions the tradition about breaking the cross as follows: It is said that its origin is that a group of Jews insulted Jesus and his mother, peace be unto them, and God called upon the [Jews] and changed them into pigs and monkeys. Then the Jews decided to kill [Jesus]. God warned him and said he would raise him to heaven. Then [Jesus] said to his companions, "Which of you wishes to take on my likeness, be killed and crucified, and so enter the Garden of Eden?" One of them got up and God cast upon him the likeness [of Jesus], so that it would be he who was killed and crucified. And then people said, perhaps this man is a dissembler, and tried to prove it by entering the house of Jesus, but Jesus had already left and his likeness was cast on the other. So that when the Jews entered, they killed [the dissembler], claiming he was Jesus. Then they disagreed and some said that he was God and could not be killed; and others said that a dissembler had been killed and crucified; and others said that if it was Jesus, then where was his companion; and if it was his companion, then where was Jesus? And some said he was raised to heaven, and others said his face is the face of Jesus, and his body the body of the companion. Then the Jews oppressed the companions of Jesus, peace be unto him, by killing and crucifying and jailing [them], until the matter came before the Master of Rome. 45 He was told that the Jews were oppressing the companions of Jesus, because he said he was the Messenger of God, he was giving life to the dead, he was healing the dumb and the leprous, and working miracles, and that the Jews had killed him and crucified him. And [the Master of Rome] sent for the crucified body, which was taken down from the wooden pieces. The pieces of wood on which he was crucified were brought to the Master of Rome, who began to worship them. From them they made many crosses and from that day on Christians have worshipped the cross. The end. The cross of the crucifixion appears there in different guises, but always in the same form. Sometimes it is large, at other times it is small. It may be of wood, stone, metal, brass, or gold, or in a picture. Sometimes the form of the crucified Jesus is on it, sometimes it is the cross alone, as was mentioned by al-Qasțallānī. Many are sold in the shops. The figure of Jesus is portrayed in various ways: as a grown man, or a small boy in the lap or arms of Mary. In the church they pray to them both. If you ask one of them about this likeness, he will explain to you that it is God, or His son, or His mother if Mary is there. May [God] preserve them from that, and may He be raised high above what the sinners say. The proof of our eyes only increased our insight into their unbelief, the falsity of their Xtreed, and the stupidity of their reasoning. Thanks be to God who guided us to the true religion. We ask God, praise be unto Him, to keep us in the true faith until death. Amen. With the help of our faithful prophet, may prayers and the purest peace be upon him until the Day of Judgment.

 

聖訓：

]阿爾-卡斯塔拉尼在他對《薩希》的注釋中提到了關於打破十字架的傳統如下：
 據說它的起源是一群猶太人侮辱耶穌和他的母親（願主福安之），於是真主召喚 [猶太人] 並將他們變成豬和猴子。
然後，猶太人決定殺死 [耶穌]。
上帝警告他，並說他會把他升上天堂。
然後，[耶穌] 對他的同伴說：
「你們誰願意變成我的樣子，被殺害，釘在十字架上，然後進入伊甸園？其中一個人站起來，神就把[耶穌]的形像投在他身上，這樣，被殺害和釘十字架的就是他了。
然後人們說，也許這個人是個騙子，就想進耶穌的家來證明，但耶穌已經走了，他的肖像就投在另一個人身上。
猶太人進去的時候，就殺了這個人，說他是耶穌。
然後，他們各說各的話，有的說他是神，不能殺；有的說，一個詆毀耶穌的人被殺了，釘在十字架上；有的說，如果他是耶穌，那麼他的同伴在哪裡；如果他是他的同伴，那麼耶穌在哪裡？又有人說他升天了，又有人說他的臉就是耶穌的臉，他的身體就是同伴的身體。
猶太人就欺壓耶穌的同伴，願他平安，把他們殺害、釘十字架、關在監獄裡，直到這件事到了羅馬的主面前。
45 有人告訴他，猶太人欺壓耶穌的同伴，因為他說他是真主的使者，他使死人復活，他醫治啞子和長痳瘋的人，並行神蹟，而猶太人殺了他，把他釘在十字架上。
羅馬的主]派人把釘在十字架上的屍體從木塊上取下來。
他被釘在十字架上的木塊被帶到羅馬教主那裡，教主開始敬拜這些木塊。
他們用這些木片做了許多十字架，從那一天起，基督徒開始崇拜十字架。
結束。
被釘十字架的十字架以不同的姿態出現在那裡，但總是以相同的形式出現。
有時它很大，有時它很小。
它可能是木頭、石頭、金屬、黃銅或黃金製成的，也可能是一幅圖畫。
有時上面有被釘十字架的耶穌的形像，有時只有十字架，就像 al-Qasțallānī 所提到的。
商店裡有許多出售。
耶穌的形象有各種不同的描繪方式：
成年男子，或是瑪利亞膝上或懷中的小男孩。
在教堂裡，他們同時向兩者祈禱。
如果你問他們中的一個人關於這個肖像的問題，他會向你解釋這是上帝，或者是他的兒子，或者是他的母親（如果瑪利亞在那裡）。
願[真主]保守他們不致如此，願祂高過罪人所說的。
我們眼睛的證明，只是增加了我們對他們的不信、他們的Xtreed的虛假、和他們的推理的愚昧的洞察力。
感謝真主，是他引導我們歸向真正的宗教。
讚美主，我們祈求祂保守我們在真信仰中，直到死亡。
阿門。
在我們忠誠的先知的幫助下，願祈禱和最純潔的平安賜予他，直到審判日。

We left [Marseille], the place of our first night's rest, for Avignon, a large city surrounded by a wall and gates bearing the marks of antiquity. It was like other places with respect to its markets and garrison and so on. They say that thirty-three thousand souls live there. Alongside it flows the river Rhône. Enormous bridges span it at that place and there are many large and small boats there. Vast amounts of wood, boards, firewood, and charcoal are transported on the river. It is one of the centers of civilization in their land. The surrounding countryside is flat, fertile, and cultivated. Along the whole way we did not see any place greener than this. Nearby is another river called the Durance, spanned by a wooden bridge in which we counted about fifty arches.

沿途城鎮

我們離開了第一晚休息的地方 [馬賽]，前往 Avignon，那是一座大城，周圍有城牆和帶有古代烙印的城門。
就市場和駐軍而言，它和其他地方一樣。
據說有三萬三千人住在那裡。
它旁邊流淌著羅讷河。
巨大的橋梁橫跨河上，那裡有許多大小船只。
大量的木材、木板、木柴和木炭在河上運送。
這是他們土地上的文明中心之一。
周圍的農村地勢平坦、肥沃、耕作茂盛。
一路上，我們沒有看到比這裡更綠的地方。
附近有另一條河，叫做杜勒河 (Durance)，河上有一座木橋，我們數了數大約有 50 個拱門。

After that we passed many towns, one called [?], and another Sorgues. The river Ouvèze flows nearby, crossed by a small bridge. Then comes Orange, an old town with an arched gate more than a thousand years old, according to the date upon it." After that come Mornas, Lapalud, Montélimar, then Loriol, followed by the river Drôme, which is crossed by a small bridge where it meets the Rhône; then a town called La Paillasse. All these are small towns which look alike and are close together. We spent the second night in the town of Valence, a large place that bore the signs of civilization. It has a citadel surrounded by an ancient wall with cannons in it. This town is skilled in the science of artillery, and they come here from other parts to study it. 48

 

之後，我們經過了許多小鎮，一個叫 [?] ，另一個叫 Sorgues。
Ouvèze 河在附近流過，有一座小橋橫跨。
接下來是 Orange，這是一座古老的城鎮，根據拱門上的日期顯示，拱門已有一千多年的歷史。
接下來是莫納斯 (Mornas)、拉帕魯德 (Lapalud)、蒙特利馬 (Montélimar)，然後是洛里奧爾 (Loriol)，接著是德羅姆河 (Drôme)，在河水與羅納河 (Rhône) 交匯的地方，有一座小橋橫跨河上；然後是一個叫拉派拉斯 (La Paillasse) 的小鎮。
這些都是看起來很像的小鎮，而且相距很近。
我們在瓦倫斯鎮（Valence）渡過了第二個晚上，這個地方很大，有文明的跡象。
它有一座城堡，被古老的城牆包圍，城牆上有大炮。
這個鎮子精通火炮科學，他們從其他地方來到這裡研究火炮。
48

The night of our stay, there was a heavy snowfall which covered the earth, the rooftops, and the branches of the trees with whiteness. Carts which passed the night on the road or in the open fields had a covering of snow to the depth of a finger or more. This was the first time we saw snow there, and we were to see it again in even greater quantity.

 

我們停留的當晚，下了一場大雪，大地、屋頂和樹枝都被白雪覆蓋。
在路上或空地上過夜的車，上面覆蓋了一指或更深的雪。
這是我們第一次在那裡看見雪，而我們將再看到更多的雪。

 

After Valence there is a small river, the Isère, which has a new bridge over it. Whoever crosses over it must pay a set sum at a house to one side. No one passes over without paying, until they collect in full what was spent on [building] it. Then we passed a town called Tain on the banks of the Rhône; then another called St.-Vallier; then another called the village of Roussillon; then Vienne, which is ancient and known for its cathedral of St. Maurice. Workshops for making wool+9 are found in this village and it is famous for it. The whole day's journey was along the banks of the Rhône, and we spent the third night in the city of Lyon. 50

過了 Valence 之後，有一條小河 Isère 河，河上有一座新橋。
無論何人過河，都必須在一邊的房子繳付一定的費用。
沒有人可以不付錢就通過，直到他們把[建橋]所花的錢收齊為止。
之後，我們經過了羅讷河畔一個叫泰恩 (Tain) 的小鎮；接著是另一個叫聖瓦利埃 (St.-Vallier)的小鎮；然後是另一個叫魯西永 (Roussillon) 的村莊；然後是維埃納 (Vienne)，它很古老，以聖莫里斯大教堂 (cathedral of St. Maurice) 而聞名。
在這個村子裡有製作羊毛+9的作坊，而且很有名。
一整天的行程都是沿著羅納河岸，第三晚我們在里昂市過夜。
50

 

NOTES：

1. Travel in Morocco was described by foreigners as dangerous and exhausting. Those journeying under the auspices of the Sultan received the mūna, or provisioning by local officials; however, the mina was not always forthcoming, and voyagers often had to carry their own food, buy it, or forage for it. Hay, Journal, p. 17. Carrying money was also risky because of the prevalence of brigands. Laroui, Origines, p. 36. The dirham and the riyal (from the Spanish réal) were basic units of Moroccan coinage. See Ch. 3 note 21, below.

2. In Arabic, al-uwkanța (vocalized in aş-Şaffar's text), from the Italian locanda, a tavern with rooms for lodging. At-Tahtāwī describes it as a "restaurant... sometimes including places to sleep." Takhlis, p. 114; L'or, p. 148. Aş-Şaffär says it is a place for sleeping, with food bought outside, which was closer to Moroccan practice. James Grey Jackson described an inn (funduq) of Fes as follows: "Three stories high, [with] 50 to 100 apartments. As the mode of travelling is to carry bedding with one, they do not provide beds in these inns, but leave you to make use of what you have got, providing only a mat; and if you want any refreshment you cannot order a meal, but must purchase it at a cook's shop, or procure it at the butcher's." An Account of the Empire of Marocco and the District of Suse (Philadelphia, 1810), p. 123. The funduq was mainly for country folk; people of aş-Şaffar's class usually stayed in private homes when visiting another city. The Spanish posada (Arabic būşāda) was a place where travelers spent the night and changed horses.

 

3. Santir. Dozy 1:694.

4. Kanün, a charcoal brazier, placed in the center of the room to heat it in winter; also a grill for cooking meat. Harrell, p. 60; L. Brunot, Textes arabes de Rabat, 2 vols. (Rabat, 1952), 2, glossary, p. 703.

5. Qashina, from the Spanish cocina, "kitchen." Dozy 2:473.

 

6. Karrūşa, from the Spanish carroza. A four-wheeled cart drawn by a horse. Dozy 2:456. Nineteenth-century travelers to Morocco remarked on the absence of wheeled vehicles. J. H. D. Hay saw "on the road-side a wretched wheeled vehicle, ruder even in construction and form than a very ancient Egyptian cart which I saw shortly after its discovery on the banks of the Nile. This is the only wheeled carriage I have met with in all Morocco." Western Barbary: Its Wild Tribes and Savage Animals (London, 1861),

pp. 121-22.

7. Arabic dhira, literally "forearm," the distance between the elbow and the tip of the middle finger, equal to about half a meter.

8. Karrița, from the Spanish carreta. A small two-wheeled cart. Dozy 2:453; al-Ghassäni, Iftikāk, p. 39.

 

9. Bridges were rare in Morocco in the 18405, but not entirely unknown. On his trip to Marrakesh in 1846, J. H. D. Hay passed two wellconstructed bridges, a five-arched one reportedly built by a Spanish mason in the Shawiya region, and another closer to Marrakesh that had twentyfive arches. But most rivers and streams had to be forded or crossed by boat. Moving his small party across the Wad Sebou near Mehdiya took an entire day: "The embarkation immediately commenced of both horses and baggage in one wretched boat. The river is a wide and rapid stream, and the boat has only two oars, so that each passage has occupied upward of two hours; and though we commenced at break of day, we had not finished until sunset." Hay, Journal, p. 20.

 

10. From a Greek word meaning "hundredweight" (cf. Latin centenarium). In Morocco it was equal to 100 ratls, or about so kilograms. The weight of a rail changed from one region to another, and could vary according to the item being weighed; usually it meant a weight of about 500 grams. Laroui, Origines, pp. 49-50; Dozy 2:413.

11. In Arabic, nā'ūra, literally "noria" or "waterwheel." Since wheeled transport was rare, there was no commonly used Arabic word for cart wheel; the local word for "wheel" was often taken from the word for waterwheel. G. S. Colin, "La noria marocaine et les machines hydrauliques dans le monde arabe," Hesp. 14 (1932): 22-49; Thomas Glick, Islamic and Christian Spain in the Early Middle Ages (Princeton, 1979). pp. 236-39.

12. The word as-Saffär uses here is maks. In Morocco, the maks was a special duty imposed by the Sultan, separate from the Koranic taxes on land and income. Usually it was a "gate tax," levied on goods entering and leaving town, and thus aş-Şaffar associates it with the French octroi. The Moroccan maks, like the octroi, was greatly resented, especially by urban dwellers; often it was the spark that ignited popular uprisings. Al-Manūni, Mazahir 1:297-301; SEI, s.v. "Maks"; E. Michaux-Bellaire,

94 "L'organisation des finances au Maroc," AM 11 (1907): 181, 189, 206-7, 213-16.

13. Mil, used also in Arabic. Ibn Khaldūn says it equals 4,000 cubits, about two kilometers, or 1% English miles. Muqaddimah 1:96 and note 19.

14. A sign of the capable ruler was security on the roads. Muqaddimah 2:3. Travelers often had to depend on local authorities to provide security. Hay reported that the Moroccan countryside "is said to be infested with robbers. The Sultan has obliged two or three tribes to pitch their tents near the road so as to guard travellers from them." Journal, p. 52. But when the Sultan traveled, the movement became a demonstration of royal power: see J. Dakhlia, "Dans la mouvance du Prince: La symbolique du pouvoir intinérant au Maghreb," Annales: Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations 43. 3 (May-

June 1988): 735-60. 15. Istabl, from the Latin stabulum (Spanish establo). Dozy 1:26; EI 2, s.v."Iştabl."

 

16. The cultic center of Islam, located in the great mosque at Mecca, housing the sacred Black Stone. SEI, s.v. "Ka'ba."

17. Ibn 'Umar and Ibn 'Abbās were figures in early Islam. 'Abd Allah b. 'Umar (d. 693) was the eldest son of the Caliph 'Umar and one of the Prophet's closest companions; his contemporary, 'Abd Allah b. al-'Abbās (d. 687), was the cousin of the Prophet and famous for his sweeping knowledge of law and tradition. SEI, s.vv. " "Abd Allah b. al-Abbās" and ""Abd Allah b. 'Umar b. al-Khattab."

18. Nawwala: a hive-shaped dwelling made out of sticks and thatch, seen especially in the countryside in northern Morocco.

19. Between Tangier and Rabat, Hay observed that the countryside was "almost uninhabited," but further south he found that "the country was better cultivated than any we had yet seen, the barley and wheat. ing splendid." Journal, p. 54; see also Laroui, Origines, pp. 34-38. look-

20. Forests were endangered in Morocco because of overgrazing and overuse: "The goats do their best to devour the young shoots, while the people of the country have the reprehensible custom of cutting down the trunks to make charcoal, and the thorny branches to fence in their fields." Aubin, Morocco, p. 12.

 

21. Aş-Şaffar refers to his country as al-Maghrib, "Morocco"-not meaning "the Greater Maghrib" (which included Algeria and Tunisia), because elsewhere he refers to Algeria as al-Jazā ir and Tunisia as Ifriqiya. On the Moroccan sense of national identity in the nineteenth century, see Laroui, Origines, pp. 57-59.

22. In Arabic, tût düd al-harir, the mulberry. The reference to male and female is not clear. Some mulberries bear no fruit; perhaps this is what he meant by the "male" of the species. Encyclopaedia Britannica, 1990 ed., s. v. "Mulberry."

23. Oranges were plentiful in Morocco, too-so much so that Hay re-

marked that near Rabat oranges "were sometimes sold on the trees at the

rate of about a shilling per thousand." Journal, p. 43. Jackson noted that the

vicinity of "Tetuan produces the most delicious oranges in the world; also figs, grapes, melons, apricots, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, pomegranates, citrons, lemons, limes." Account, p. II. 24. These are the small Îles d'Hyères, also known as the Îles d'Or,which face the port of Toulon.

 

25. Aş-Şaffär uses the Turkish word beylik, translated here as "state." Makhzan, meaning "government," was specific to Morocco. Beylik may have been suggested by interpreters who had spent time in Algeria; it was used also to denote the government 'Abd al-Qadir had set up in Oran. Azan, L'emir Abd el Kader, p. 133.

26. Arabic kharaj, the tax on land. Originally imposed on non-Muslims, it was later paid also by Muslims. According to Maliki law, the kharaj was not a tax but "rent" paid for use of the land, which was the property of the community. Established in Morocco around the thirteenth century, it was paid thereafter with some regularity, often under the name of na iba. E. Michaux-Bellaire, "Le droit de propriété au Maroc," RMM 7 (1909): 365-78; and, by the same author, "L'impôt de la naïba et la loi musulmane au Maroc," RMM 11 (1910): 396-404.

27. Shari'a, the revealed law of Islam. Aş-Şaffär, like at-Tahțāwī, uses the term to denote the secular French legal code. Takhlis, p. 94; L'or, p. 133. He also uses the word qünün, meaning specific "rules," rather than a legal "code." Islamic legists made a distinction between the two: sharia is the immutable law of God, while qanün refers to regulations made by men to fit changing needs. The two are not incompatible, although derived from different sources. A. Hourani, "Aspects of Islamic Culture: Introduction," in Naff and Owen, Studies, pp. 266-67.

28. In France, aş-Şaffär did not find commons where people could cut fodder or graze their animals, as was the practice in rural Morocco.

29. The Arabic is 'ushr, the "tenth part" of annual income, levied on all Muslims according to Koranic law. In Morocco, where revenue was measured chiefly in flocks and harvests, the 'ushr was equal to one-tenth of the annual grain harvest. SEI, s. v. " "Ushr."

30. The Rhône actually flows south from Lyon.

31. The High Atlas Mountains in the south of Morocco have a covering of snow throughout the year; Jabal Tubkal (4,165 m) is the highest peak in North Africa. J. Martin et al., Géographie du Maroc (Paris, 1967), pp. 130-42.

 

32. Literally "houses of winesellers."

33. Arabic hadira, a word used by medieval geographers to denote a large and populous urban center, as opposed to the badiya, the underpopulated rural areas. Muqaddimah 1:1xxx; Dozy 1:299.

34. Qurşal, from the Italian corsale, a corsair or privateer. Since privateering was no longer practiced in the Mediterranean, the word here means simply a type of warship. It is sometimes written as qurşan. Brunot, La mer, PP-337-44-

35. Arabic 'ushr (see note 29) could also mean an export duty, collected as goods were leaving a town. In 1845, a tax levied in Fes on all goods destined for Algeria was called the 'ushr funduq an-najjärin, "the duty of the carpenters' inn," from the place where it was collected. See E. MichauxBellaire, "Les impôts marocains," AM 1 (1904): 65.

36. The Château Borély, built by a wealthy merchant of Marseille in the late eighteenth century, surrounded by an expansive park. At-Tahțāwī stayed there before his departure for Paris in 1831. L'or, p. 94 note 70.

37. Iyala, an Arabic word that became an Ottoman administrative term (eyalet, or "province") and was adopted in Morocco during the Sa'adian period. Ibn Zaydän, 'Izz, 1, glossary, p. 399. At the end of the eighteenth century, the huge provinces of pre-Revolutionary France were broken up and replaced by 86 départements, translated here as "province" to stay close to the Arabic original.

 

38. The "governor of the people" was the préfet, the highest civil official of the département. The "governor of the army" was a general in charge of a local garrison, serving under orders from the Ministry of War. Grande encyclopédie Larousse, 1882 ed., s.v. "Département."

39. An aqueduct from the river Durance to Marseille, a distance of 83 kilometers, was begun in 1839 and completed in 1847. More than 21 kilometers of its length was underground. L'Illustration, 6 September 1845.

40. The conquest of Algeria stimulated commercial activity in Marseille, creating the need for a larger port; the depth of the old port was too shallow to allow ships of heavy tonnage to enter. In 1844, just before aş-Şaffar's visit, a law was passed authorizing the construction of a new dock just north of the old quays. Guide Michelin: Provence, 1976 ed.,P. 95.

41. Qishla, a Turkish word meaning "barracks." Dozy 2:351.

42. The court of appeal for the département of Marseille had its seat in Aix. Guide Michelin: Provence, 1976 ed., p. 46.

43. Koran 4:157.

44. An Egyptian authority on Hadith who died in 923/1517. Muslim belief is that Jesus, revered as a prophet, was not crucified, but another "who bore his likeness" died in his place, thus disassociating Jesus from the idolatrous symbol of the cross. The passage quoted by aş-Şaffar comes from al-Qastallānī's commentary on the Sahih of al-Bukhari, entitled Irshad

as-sari fi sharh al-Bukhari. SEI, s.vv. " "Isä" and "al-Kastallāni."

 

45. Sahib ar-Rüm, or Pontius Pilate.

 

46. The Arc de Triomphe of Orange was built by Caesar in 49 B.C. to celebrate his victories over the Gauls, Guide Michelin: Provence, 1976 ed., p.112.

47. Qaşba; in Morocco, a walled section of the imperial town housing troops belonging to the Sultan. 48. The Ecole d'Artillerie, where the cadet Napoleon Bonaparte perfected his skills in gunnery in 1785. Guide Michelin: Vallée du Rhône, 1985

ed., p. 156.

49. Mluf, a fine wool cloth used for outer clothing, originally from the Italian city of Amalfi. Harrell, p. 81; Dozy 2:61; IB 2:44 note 124; Ibn Zaydān, Izz, 1, glossary, p. 418.

50. The text gives precise directions on pronunciation: "With a hamza at the beginning, a sukūn on the lam, and a long yā."

 

註解：

1. 外國人形容摩洛哥的旅行既危險又辛苦。
在蘇丹的支持下旅行的人會獲得當地官員提供的 mūna，或糧食；然而，mina 並非總是有的，旅行者通常必須自己攜帶、購買或覓食。
Hay, Journal, p. 17。
由於強盜猖獗，攜帶金錢也有風險。
Laroui, Origines, p. 36。
迪拉姆和里亞爾 (源自西班牙文 réal)是摩洛哥硬幣的基本單位。
請參閱下文第 3 章註 21。

2. 在阿拉伯語中，al-uwkanța (在 aş-Şaffar 的文字中發聲)，源自義大利語 locanda，有住宿房間的酒館。
At-Tahtāwī 將其描述為 「酒館......有時包括睡覺的地方」。
Takhlis，第 114 頁；L'or，第 148 頁。
Aş-Şaffär 說它是供人睡覺的地方，食物在外面買，這更接近摩洛哥的做法。
James Grey Jackson 對費斯的旅館 (funduq) 有如下描述：
 「三層樓高，[有] 50 到 100 間公寓。
由於人們的旅行方式是隨身攜帶寢具，因此這些旅館不提供床鋪，而是讓您利用現有的東西，只提供一張墊子；如果您想要任何點心，您不能點餐，而必須到廚師店購買，或到屠夫店購買。
An Account of the Empire of Marocco and the District of Suse（費城，1810 年），第 123 頁。
FUNDUQ 主要是為鄉下人而設；aş-Şaffar 階級的人到另一個城市時，通常會住在私人家中。
西班牙語的 posada（阿拉伯語 būşāda）是旅人過夜和換馬的地方。

3. 桑提爾。
Dozy 1:694.

4. Kanün，木炭火爐，放在房間中央，冬天用來取暖；也是煮肉的烤架。
Harrell, p. 60; L. Brunot, Textes arabes de Rabat, 2 vols. (Rabat, 1952), 2, glossary, p. 703.

5. Qashina，源自西班牙文 cocina，即「廚房」。
Dozy 2:473.

6. Karrūşa，源自西班牙文 carroza。
馬拉的四輪車。
Dozy 2:456. 十九世紀前往摩洛哥的旅行者曾評論過當地沒有輪車。
J. H. D. Hay 在路邊看到「一輛可憐的輪車，其結構和形狀甚至比我在尼羅河河岸發現後不久看到的一輛非常古老的埃及手推車更粗糙。
這是我在整個摩洛哥唯一見過的有輪車。
Western Barbary: Its Wild Tribes and Savage Animals (London, 1861)、

pp. 121-22.

7. 阿拉伯文 dhira，字面意思是「前臂」，指肘與中指尖之間的距離，約等於半公尺。

8. Karrița，源自西班牙文 carreta。
小型雙輪車。
Dozy 2:453; al-Ghassäni, Iftikāk, p. 39。

9. 18405 年，橋樑在摩洛哥很少見，但並非完全不為人所知。
J. H. D. Hay 在 1846 年前往 Marrakesh 時，經過兩座建造精良的橋梁，一座據說是由西班牙石匠在 Shawiya 地區建造的五拱橋，另一座則離 Marrakesh 較近，有 25 個拱門。
但大多數的河流和溪澗都需要撐橋或乘船渡過。
在 Mehdiya 附近的 Wad Sebou 河上，他的小隊花了一整天的時間：
 「馬匹和行李馬上就裝上了一條破船。
這條河是一條又寬又急的小河，船上只有兩支槳，所以每次經過都要花上兩個多小時；雖然我們是在破晓時分開始的，但直到日落時分才完成"。
Hay, Journal, p. 20。

10. 來自希臘文，意思是「一百塊」（參考拉丁文 centena-rium）。
在摩洛哥，它等於 100 ratls，或大約這麼公斤。
鐵軌的重量因地而異，也會依據稱重的物品而改變；通常是指約 500 克的重量。
Laroui, Origines, pp.

11. 阿拉伯文中的 nā'ūra，字面意思是「noria」或「水車」。
由於輪式運輸非常罕見，所以阿拉伯文中沒有常用的車輪字；當地的「輪」字通常取自「waterwheel」。
G. S. Colin, 「La noria marocaine et les machines hydrauliques dans le monde arabe,」 Hesp：
 22-49; Thomas Glick, Islamic and Christian Spain in the Early Middle Ages (Princeton, 1979). pp.

 

12. as-Saffär 在此使用的字是 maks。
在摩洛哥，maks 是蘇丹徵收的一種特殊稅項，與《古蘭經》中的土地稅和收入稅不同。
通常這是一種「門稅」，對進出城鎮的貨物徵收，因此 aş-Şaffar 將其與法國的 octroi 聯繫起來。
摩洛哥的 maks 和 octroi 一樣，都引起了很大的反感，尤其是城市居民；它經常是引發民眾起義的導火線。
Al-Manūni, Mazahir 1:297-301; SEI, s.v. 「Maks」; E. Michaux-Bellaire、

94 「L'organisation des finances au Maroc,」 AM 11 (1907)：
 181, 189, 206-7, 213-16.

13. Mil，也用於阿拉伯文。
Ibn Khaldūn 說它等於 4,000 cubits，約兩公里，或 1%英哩。
Muqaddimah 1:96 及註 19。

14. 能幹的統治者的標誌是道路安全。
Muqaddimah 2:3。
旅行者通常必須仰賴當地政府提供安全保障。
Hay 報導摩洛哥鄉間「據說盜賊橫行」。
蘇丹已強迫兩三個部落在道路附近搭起帳篷，以保護旅客不受盜賊侵襲"。
日記》，第 52 頁。
但當蘇丹旅行時，這項運動就變成了王權的展示：
請參閱 J. Dakhlia, "Dans la mouvance du Prince：
 La symbolique du pouvoir inti-nérant au Maghreb," Annales：
 Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations 43. 3 (May-

1988年6月）：
 735-60. 15. Istabl，源自拉丁文 stabulum（西班牙文 establo）。
Dozy 1:26；EI 2，s.v. 「Iştabl」。

16. 伊斯蘭教的崇拜中心，位於麥加的大清真寺，內有神聖的黑石。
SEI，s.v. 「Ka'ba」。

17. 伊本-歐麥爾和伊本-阿巴斯是早期伊斯蘭教的代表人物。
阿卜杜拉-歐麥爾（卒於 693 年）是哈里發-歐麥爾的長子，也是先知最親密的同伴之一；他的同代人阿卜杜拉-阿巴斯（卒於 687 年）是先知的表弟，以精通法律和傳統而聞名。
SEI, s.vv. 「」Abd Allah b. al-Abbās「 and 」「Abd Allah b. 'Umar b. al-Khattab.」 18.

18. Nawwala：
用木棒和茅草做成的蜂巢狀住所，特別見於摩洛哥北部的鄉間。

19. 在丹吉爾與拉巴特之間，海依觀察到鄉間「幾乎沒有人居住」，但再往南，他發現「鄉間的耕作比我們見過的任何地方都要好，大麥與小麥都很肥美」。
Journal, p. 54; see also Laroui, Origines, pp.

20. 由於過度放牧和過度使用，摩洛哥的森林瀕臨滅絕：
 「山羊盡其所能吞食幼芽，而國民有個應受譴責的習俗，就是砍伐樹幹來製作木炭，砍下帶刺的樹枝來圍欄田地」。
Aubin, Morocco, p. 12。

21. 21. Aş-Şaffar將他的國家稱為al-Maghrib，「摩洛哥」，而非指「大馬格里布」（包括阿爾及利亞和突尼西亞），因為他在其他地方將阿爾及利亞稱為al-Jazā ir，將突尼西亞稱為Ifriqiya。
關於十九世紀摩洛哥的民族認同感，請參閱 Laroui, Origines, pp.

22. 在阿拉伯語中，tût düd al-harir，即桑葚。
對於男性與女性的提法並不清楚。
有些桑葚不結果，也許這就是他所指的「雄性」物種。
Encyclopaedia Britannica, 1990 ed., s. v. 「Mulberry」.

23. 摩洛哥的橘子也很豐富，以至於 Hay re.

在拉巴特附近，橘子 「有時在樹上出售，價格約為每千人一先令」。

「。
日記》，第 43 頁。
Jackson 指出

Tetuan 附近出產世界上最美味的橘子；還有無花果、葡萄、甜瓜、杏、李子、草莓、蘋果、梨、柑橘、檸檬、青檸。
Account, p. II. 這些是面向土倫港的小海爾島 (也稱為金之島)。

25. Aş-Şaffär使用土耳其語beylik，在此譯為 「國家」。
Makhzan 的意思是 「政府」，是摩洛哥特有的。
Beylik 可能是在阿爾及利亞待過的口譯員提出的；它也被用來表示 'Abd al-Qadir 在奧蘭成立的政府。
Azan, L'emir Abd el Kader, p. 133。

26. 阿拉伯語 kharaj，土地稅。
最初是向非穆斯林徵收的，後來穆斯林也要繳納。
根據馬利基法律，kharaj 並非稅項，而是使用土地的「租金」，土地是社群的財產。
Kharaj 約於 13 世紀在摩洛哥確立，之後定期繳納，通常以 na iba 的名義繳納。
E. Michaux-Bellaire, 「Le droit de propriété au Maroc,」 RMM 7 (1909)：
 365-78; and, by the same author, 「L'impôt de la naïba et la loi musulmane au Maroc,」 RMM 11 (1910)：
 396-404.

27. Shari'a，伊斯蘭教的啟示法。
與 at-Tahțāwī 一樣，Aş-Şaffär 也使用該詞表示世俗的法國法典。
Takhlis，第 94 頁；L'or，第 133 頁。
他也使用 qünün 一詞，意指特定的「規則」，而非法律「法典」。
伊斯蘭法律學家將兩者區分：
sharia 是真主永恆不變的法律，而 qanün 則是指人為了適應不斷變化的需求而制定的規範。
儘管源自不同的來源，但兩者並非互不相容。
A. Hourani, "Aspects of Islamic Culture：
 導言》，收錄於 Naff 與 Owen 的《研究》，第 266-67 頁。

28. 在法國，aş-Şaffär 找不到人們可以割草或放牧的公地，就像摩洛哥農村的做法一樣。

29. 阿拉伯語是'ushr，年收入的 「十分之一」，根據古蘭經法律向所有穆斯林徵收。
在摩洛哥，收入主要來自羊群和收成，「ushr 」等於每年穀物收成的十分之一。
SEI，s. v. 「 」Ushr"。

30. 羅讷河實際上從里昂往南流。

31. 摩洛哥南部的高阿特拉斯山 (High Atlas Mountains) 全年積雪；Jabal Tubkal (4,165 公尺) 是北非最高峰。
J. Martin et al., Géographie du Maroc (Paris, 1967), pp.

32. 字面意思為「酒商的房子」。

33. 阿拉伯文 hadira，中世紀地理學家用來表示人口眾多的大型城市中心，與人口不足的農村地區 badiya 相反。
Muqaddimah 1:1xxx; Dozy 1:299。

34. Qurşal，來自義大利語 corsale，指海盜或私掠者。
由於地中海已不再有私掠活動，因此此詞在此僅表示一種軍艦。
有時也會寫成 qurşan。
Brunot, La mer, PP-337-4436.

35. 阿拉伯文 'ushr(見註 29) 也可以指出口稅，在貨物離開城鎮時徵收。
1845 年，費斯對所有運往阿爾及利亞的貨物徵收的稅項被稱為 'ushr funduq an-najjärin，「木匠旅店的稅」，源自徵收的地點。
見 E. MichauxBellaire, 「Les impôts marocains,」 AM 1 (1904)：
 65.

36. Château Borély，由馬賽的一位富商於十八世紀末建造，周圍是廣闊的公園。
At-Tahțāwī 在 1831 年前往巴黎之前曾在此下榻。
L'or，第 94 頁註 70。

37. Iyala 是阿拉伯文，後來成為鄂圖曼的行政用語 (eyalet，或「省」)，並在薩達王朝時期被摩洛哥採用。
Ibn Zaydän, 'Izz, 1, 詞彙表，第 399 頁。
十八世紀末，法國大革命前的龐大省份被分割，取而代之的是 86 個省，為了貼近阿拉伯語原文，這裡譯為「省」。

38. 「人民总督 」是省长，是省的最高文官。
而 「軍隊總督 」則是負責當地駐軍的將領，根據軍部的命令服務。
Grande encyclopédie Larousse, 1882 ed., s.v. 「Département」.

39. 1839 年開始興建杜勒河至馬賽的引水道，全長 83 公里，1847 年完工。
其中超過 21 公里的長度是在地下。
L'Illustration, 1845 年 9 月 6 日。

40. 征服阿爾及利亞刺激了馬塞爾的商業活動，需要一個更大的港口；舊港口的深度太淺，無法讓重噸位的船隻進入。
1844 年，就在 aş-Şaffar 訪問之前，通過了一項法律，授權在舊碼頭北面建造一個新碼頭。
米其林指南：
 普羅旺斯，1976 年版，P. 95.

41. Qishla，土耳其語，意為「軍營」。
Dozy 2:351.

42. 馬賽省的上訴法院設於艾克斯。
Guide Michelin：
 普羅旺斯，1976 年版，第 46 頁。

43. 古蘭經》4:157。

44. 埃及聖經權威，卒於 923/1517 年。
回教信仰認為，耶穌被尊為先知，卻沒有被釘在十字架上，而是由另一位「與他相似的人」代替他而死，因此耶穌與十字架這個偶像崇拜的象徵無關。
aş-Şaffar 引用的这段话来自 al-Qastallānī 对《布哈里圣训集》的注释，题为 "Irshad

as-sari fi sharh al-Bukhari。
SEI, s.vv. 「 」Isä「 and 」al-Kastallāni"。

45. Sahib ar-Rüm，或 Pontius Pilate。

46. 奧蘭治的凱旋門是凱撒在公元前 49 年為了慶祝他對高爾人的勝利而建造的，Guide Michelin：
 普羅旺斯，1976 年版，第 112 頁。

47. Qaşba（卡斯巴）；在摩洛哥，皇城的圍牆部分，駐有屬於蘇丹的部隊。
48. 炮兵學校 (Ecole d'Artillerie)，1785 年拿破崙-波拿巴 (Napoleon Bonaparte) 的軍校學生在此學習炮術。
米其林指南：
 米其林指南：
羅讷河谷》，1985 年版，第 156 頁。

版，第 156 頁。

49. Mluf 是一種用於外衣的細羊毛布料，原產於義大利的 Amalfi 市。
Harrell, p. 81; Dozy 2:61; IB 2:44 note 124; Ibn Zaydān, Izz, 1, 詞彙表, p. 418。

50. 文中提供了精確的發音指示：
 「開頭用 hamza，在 lam 上用 sukūn，然後用長 yā。

2-3 Lyon

 

2-3 里昂

 

This is a large city, one of the centers of civilization in France, larger than Marseille, situated between the mountains and surrounded by fortified walls. It is the center for silkmaking in France, and damasks and other fine silks are made here. They say that there are many thousands of silkworkers. Two rivers meet there, the Rhône and the Saône, and continue as one great river. They say that the Rhône is like a man and the Saône is like a woman: just as a man meets a woman, the two [rivers) are coupled there. There are countless small boats and steamers on the river at that place, and marketplaces and fancy shops filled with splendid goods, butcher shops and bakeries, fruit sellers and greengrocers. There is an enormous bridge at the entrance to the city built of huge pillars and arches, lined with rows of lanterns of clear glass which illuminate the way in the darkness. The streets and the shops have a wondrous appearance at night.

 

这是一座大城市，是法国的文明中心之一，比马赛还要大，坐落在群山之间，四周有坚固的城墙环绕。
这里是法国的丝绸制造中心，大马士革和其他精美的丝绸都是在这里制作的。
据说这里有成千上万的丝绸工人。
罗讷河和索讷河两条河流在此交汇，汇成一条大河。
他们说，罗讷河就像一个男人，索讷河就像一个女人：
就像男人遇到女人一样，两条（河流）在这里交汇。
那里的河上有数不清的小船和汽船，还有集市和摆满华丽商品的高级商店、肉店和面包店、水果店和蔬菜店。
城市入口处有一座巨大的桥，由巨大的柱子和拱门搭建而成，桥两边是一排排透明玻璃灯笼，在黑暗中照亮了道路。
夜晚的街道和商店显得格外迷人。

There are many soldiers here, for it is the seat of one of the provinces of France governing over [its surroundings). A general (jilnār) of the army, whom they call in their language le préfet, just as in Marseille, is the most important man in the region. Many workshops called fabriques are found there, and the walls [of the city] are black with their smoke. Women are usually employed in the workshops both here and elsewhere, for they are the mainstay of the crafts.

手工业的主力军

这里有很多士兵，因为它是法国一个省的省府所在地，管辖着[其周边地区]。
军队中的一位将军（jilnār）在他们的语言中被称为le préfet，就像在马赛一样，他是该地区最重要的人物。
那里有许多被称为 fabriques 的作坊，[城市的]墙壁都被它们的烟熏黑了。
这里和其他地方的作坊通常都雇用妇女，因为她们是手工业的主力军。

 

The people of Lyon) are very industrious about increasing its size, and it is quite filled up with buildings; there are also new bridges and iron roads" that join it with other places. Travelers and goods are drawn to it because it is one of the centers of the land of France, specializing in crafts and manufactures not found in other places. Its buildings are better constructed than those of Marseille. Its outskirts are so densely settled they seemed to be part of the city. We did not see as much of this place as we did of others along our way, for we only passed through and did not linger; therefore our description of it is brief.

 

里昂人）非常勤奋地扩大城市规模，到处都是楼房，还有新的桥梁和铁路"，将里昂与其他地方连接起来。
旅行者和货物被吸引到这里，因为它是法兰西的中心之一，专门从事其他地方没有的手工艺和制造业。
它的建筑比马赛的更好。
它的郊区居民稠密，似乎是城市的一部分。
由于我们只是路过，并没有在此逗留，因此我们对这个地方的描述很简短。

We left by a winding road that went between the mountains and up to their summits, yet the coaches climbed with ease. You felt as if you were on the plain with the mountain rising in front of you, but suddenly you found yourself at the pinnacle. That is because of the smoothness of the road. They build it up where it is low, and take away from it where it is high, SO that all of it is level and you do not feel the incline except in a very few places. Along the route, water ran in rivulets among the orchards, and there were gardens with all kinds of plantings set out in neat rows. We finally reached a town called Tarare, a small place with many sources of water, where they make a type of white cloth. In the late afternoon a heavy snow fell, continuing on into the darkness of night. We could not tell the earth from the sky, because of the whiteness of the snow. As for the cold, do not ask how bitter it was! But we did not suffer from it, thanks be to God, because we were inside the coach. The windows were shut tight and our breath collected inside its closeness. The cozy warmth stayed with us and we felt no discomfort until we went outside.

客车爬坡

我们从一条蜿蜒曲折的公路出发，这条公路在群山之间穿行，一直延伸到山顶，但客车爬坡却十分轻松。
你仿佛置身于平原之上，山峰就在你的面前，但突然间你发现自己已经站在了山顶。
这就是道路平整的原因。
他们在低的地方加高，在高的地方减低，所以除了极少数地方外，所有地方都是平坦的，你感觉不到倾斜。
沿途，果园里溪水潺潺，花园里各种植物整齐地排列着。
我们最后到达了一个叫塔拉雷的小镇，这是一个有许多水源的小地方，他们在这里制作一种白布。
傍晚时分，下起了大雪，一直持续到夜深人静。
由于雪太白，我们分不清天与地。
至于寒冷，不要问它有多刺骨！ 不过，感谢上帝，我们并没有受寒，因为我们在车厢里。
车窗紧紧关闭，我们的呼吸都聚集在里面。
舒适的温暖一直伴随着我们，直到我们走出车外也没有感到任何不适。

We spent that night in the town of Roanne, a medium-sized place surrounded by villages scattered about on rolling hills. Before entering it we passed over the river Loire, mentioned before. Between this town and the city of Lyon is one of the roads of iron for the locomotive, 55 according to the description which follows.

 

当晚，我们在罗阿纳镇过夜，这是一个中等规模的地方，周围的村庄散落在连绵起伏的山丘上。
在到达罗阿纳之前，我们经过了前面提到的卢瓦尔河。
在这个小镇和里昂市之间有一条机车铁道，根据下文的描述，有 55 条。

We left this town and went on to a place called Lapalisse, a small village. [We passed] many villages after that until we reached the town of Moulins, a middleto large-sized town where we spent the night. Then we continued on to a village called Imphy, 56 then to one of their principal cities, Nevers, on the banks of the river Nièvre, which is small but has all kinds of vessels on it. We then passed Pouilly on the Loire, and spent the night in Cosne. After this came Briare, which is crossed by a small river branching off from the Loire; then the city of Gien, a big town on the banks of the Loire. Here there is a large bridge on twelve arches which we took on our way to Paris, heading north. That night, the seventh since our departure from Marseille, we stayed in Orléans, a large city said to have thirty-five thousand inhabitants, where there is a church of marvelous workmanship. 57 They claim there is none other like it in France, for it is built of marble. This city is on the banks of the Loire, and at the entry to it is a bridge fifty paces long and the width of three carts side by side.

 

我们离开这个小镇，来到一个叫拉帕利塞的地方，这是一个小村庄。
[之后我们又经过了许多村庄，直到穆兰镇，这是一个中型到大型的城镇，我们在那里过了一夜。
然后，我们继续前行，来到了一个名叫 Imphy 的村庄，56 接着又来到了他们的主要城市之一，位于涅弗尔河畔的内韦尔。
然后，我们经过卢瓦尔河畔的普伊，在科斯内过夜。
之后，我们来到布里亚尔（Briare），从卢瓦尔河分支的一条小河横穿而过；然后是吉安（Gien）城，卢瓦尔河畔的一座大城。
这里有一座十二拱的大桥，我们在去巴黎的路上走了这座桥，然后向北走。
那天晚上，也就是我们离开马赛后的第七天，我们住在奥尔良，这是一座大城市，据说有三万五千名居民。
57 他们声称，在法国没有任何一座教堂能与之媲美，因为它是用大理石建造的。
这座城市位于卢瓦尔河畔，入口处有一座桥，长五十步，宽度相当于三辆并排的马车。

 

In one of the squares of that city, next to the church I mentioned, is the likeness of a pious woman who they claim lived among them long ago. 58 When another race of Christians invaded their land, she met them at the head of an army and drove them out. All this happened about three hundred years ago. We saw the likeness of this holy woman in many places. Between this city and the city of Paris we still had ninety miles, which we covered by the iron road.

 

聖女貞德

 

在这座城市的一个广场上，在我提到的教堂旁边，有一个虔诚的女人的雕像，他们声称这个女人很久以前就住在他们中间。
58 当另一个种族的基督徒入侵他们的土地时，她率领一支军队迎战，并将他们赶了出去。
这一切发生在大约三百年前。
我们在很多地方都看到了这位圣女的肖像。
从这座城市到巴黎还有九十英里，我们走的是铁道。

NOTES：

51. Thawb al-mushajjar, "flowered cloth," meaning damask, a richly patterned silk cloth made originally in Damascus. Dozy 1:730.

 

52. In Arabic, al-fabrikāt.

 

53. Turuq al-hadid, cf. French chemin de fer the railroad, to be described in detail later.

54. Tarare was famous for the manufacture of mousseline, a fine cotton fabric originally made in Mosul, Iraq. Guide Michelin: Vallée du Rhône, 1985 ed., p. 149.

 

55. In Arabic, bābür al-barr, that is, "a steam engine [that travels] by land."

56. In the text, it is written Fini.

 

57. The Cathedral of Ste. Croix, built in the thirteenth century in the Gothic style. Michelin Guide: Châteaux of the Loire (English ed.), 1988, p. 149.

 

58. Jeanne d'Arc, the "Maid of Orleans" (1412-31). Aş-Şaffär refers to her as a rahiba, a "holy woman."

註解：

51. Thawb al-mushajjar，"花布"，意为大马士革，一种最初在大马士革制作的图案丰富的丝绸布料。
Dozy 1:730.

 

52. 阿拉伯语为 al-fabrikāt。

53. Turuq al-hadid，参见法文 chemin de fer，即铁路，稍后将详细介绍。

 

 

54. 塔拉雷因制造 Mousseline 而闻名，这是一种最初在伊拉克摩苏尔制造的精细棉织品。
米其林指南》：
 米其林指南：
罗讷河谷》，1985 年版，第 149 页。

55. 在阿拉伯语中，"bābür al-barr "意为 "陆上行驶的蒸汽机"。

 

 

56. 文中写为 Fini。

57. 圣克罗伊大教堂，建于十三世纪，哥特式风格。
米其林指南》：
 卢瓦尔河城堡》（英文版），1988 年，第 149 页。

58. 贞德，"奥尔良少女"（1412-1431 年）。
Aş-Şaffär 称她为 rahiba，即 "圣女"。

2-4An Explanation of the Iron Road and the Means of Travel on it

2-4说明铁路和铁路上的旅行方式

First they laid out a road, making it firm and level. Then they stretched across its width crosspieces of heavy wood placed a cubit or two apart. On top of them on both sides, to the right and the left, they laid iron bars going the length of the road, securing them to the crosspieces with iron rings nailed into them from below so that the bars would not move from their place; and so it is from the beginning of the road until its end.

铁路

首先，他们铺设了一条路，使其坚实平整。
然后，他们用厚重的木板横跨路面，木板之间相隔一两立方厘米。
在横木的左右两侧，他们铺设了横贯道路的铁栏杆，用铁环从下面钉在横木上，使铁栏杆不会移动；从道路的起点一直到终点，都是如此。

 

Then they laid down sand or earth, so that only the two rails stand out. They constructed a small engine, not the same as the steamer of the ocean, but having in it the force to turn the wheels and nothing else. Three men ride inside, driving it. They made carriages, similar to but finer and larger than those drawn by horses, adding to them wheels that go along the iron road. The wheels of the carriages are just like the wheels on each side of the engine and the distance between the wheels crosswise is the same as the width of the road, so that the edge of the wheel comes down on the protruding iron bar. The outside rim of the wheel is hollowed out, strengthening its bond with the iron bar, so that it does not deviate to the right or the left. And the wheels of all the carriages are like that.

 

然后，他们铺上沙子或泥土，这样就只剩下两条铁轨了。
他们建造了一台小型发动机，与海洋上的蒸汽机不同，它只具有转动轮子的动力，而没有其他动力。
三个人坐在里面驾驶它。
他们制造了类似于马拉车的马车，但比马拉车更精细、更大，还在马车上加了沿着铁路行驶的轮子。
马车的轮子就像发动机两侧的轮子一样，轮子之间的横向距离与道路的宽度相同，这样轮子的边缘就落在突出的铁条上。
车轮的外缘是空心的，加强了与铁条的结合，这样车轮就不会左右偏离。
所有马车的车轮都是这样的。

These carriages are connected to one another with couplings and heavy chains of iron, making one long line with the steam engine in the lead. The people ride inside. Each carriage has two or more separate compartments, with benches facing each other for people to sit on. There are windows of clear glass on both sides which may be opened or closed, permitting full light and view. Moreover, if travelers have loaded carts, they may take them along on a conveyance having wheels like the [other] carriages.

火车厢

这些车厢通过联轴器和沉重的铁链相互连接，形成一条长长的队伍，蒸汽机走在队伍的最前面。
人们乘坐在车厢内。
每节车厢都有两个或两个以上的独立车厢，车厢内的长凳面对面，供乘客就坐。
两侧都有透明玻璃窗，可以打开或关闭，光线充足，视野开阔。
此外，如果旅客有装满货物的手推车，他们也可以将手推车放在与[其他]马车一样有轮子的运输工具上。

 

When we were about to depart, the chief (ra'is) started the engine, and it carried along whatever was joined to it at a speed we had never experienced, almost like a bird flying through the air. We covered the distance between Orléans and Paris in two and a half hours. When we looked at the sides of the road, we could not see what was there; it looked like an endless ribbon moving along with us, and we could not distinguish the rocks or anything. We tried as hard as we could to read the signs at the side of the road that measured off the miles-even though they were marked on white rocks in heavy black letters the height of a finger-but we were unable to fix our eyes on them because of our speed. They claim that if this road of iron extended from Marseille to Paris, it would take only a day and a night to cover the [entire] distance.

火車速度太快

当我们准备出发时，酋长（ra'is）启动了发动机，它以我们从未体验过的速度带着我们前进，就像鸟儿在空中飞翔一样。
我们在两个半小时内走完了奥尔良和巴黎之间的路程。
当我们观察路的两侧时，我们看不清那里有什么；它看起来就像一条无尽的丝带，随着我们前进，我们无法分辨岩石或任何东西。
我们拼命想看清路边标明里程的路标--尽管这些路标是用一指高的黑色大字标在白色岩石上的，但由于我们的速度太快，根本无法看清。
他们声称，如果这条铁路从马赛延伸到巴黎，只需要一天一夜的时间就能走完全程。

 

Many engines come and go on this and other iron roads, but each one has an appointed time of departure, lest two of them meet head on at the same place and prevent the other from passing. Generally, they make tracks for two on a single way, and each goes on its own track; if the two draw alongside one another, one will be going and the other coming, so that when they meet they will not ram into one another because each is in its own place. Perhaps they could even make room for three.

轨道

在这条铁道和其他铁道上，许多火车来来往往，但每辆火车都有指定的出发时间，以免两辆火车在同一地点迎面相遇，妨碍另一辆火车通过。
一般来说，他们会在一条路上为两辆车铺设轨道，每辆车在自己的轨道上行驶；如果两辆车并排行驶，则一辆车开走，另一辆车开来，这样，当它们相遇时，就不会因为各自在自己的位置上而相互碰撞。
也许，它们甚至可以容纳三个人。

 

This roadway is reserved for the steam engine, and neither walking nor [horseback] riding on it is permitted. It is guarded carefully, for fear that the engine will collide with something. If someone walks there heedlessly, it is impossible to warn him before the engine reaches him, because of its great speed. For that reason they give the engines whistles, which they blow from afar to warn whoever might be unmindful of its coming; also, if there is another engine heading toward it, they will be aware of its approach. If the chief wants to stop the engine in the middle of the road he may do so. At times he is obliged to stop, to change the water whose steam drives the wheels. Along the way they have made certain places on the iron rails where he may turn off if the need arises.

 

这条路是蒸汽机专用通道，禁止在上面行走或骑马。
因为担心蒸汽机会撞上什么东西，所以要小心看守。
如果有人漫不经心地走在上面，由于蒸汽机速度极快，不可能在它到达之前向他发出警告。
因此，他们会给发动机装上哨子，从远处吹响哨子，提醒可能不注意发动机到来的人，而且，如果有另一辆驶向发动机，他们也会注意到发动机的接近。
如果车长想把发动机停在路中间，他可以这样做。
有时他不得不停下来，换水，用蒸汽驱动车轮。
沿途，他们在铁轨上设置了一些地方，如果需要，他可以在这些地方停车。

 

Another thing about that road is that it must be level and smooth, with no bumps or dips. When it comes to a mountain, the slope rises gradually for some distance so that the hill is done away with. If they cannot do that and are obliged to pass that way, they cut the road through the belly of the mountain under the earth, boring through completely to the other side. Then with great skill and exactitude they build a domelike structure over [the roadway], and the engines pass through. We rode on another iron road from Paris to one of their gardens. 59 On the way we passed beneath the mountains in many places, finding ourselves in such heavy darkness that we had to light the lamps although it was daytime. We traveled for half a mile under the earth. When we emerged we [looked back and] saw that trees, buildings, and farmlands had been above us as we passed beneath.

 

关于道路的另一件事是，它必须平整光滑，没有颠簸或崎岖。
如果是山路，坡度会在一段距离内逐渐升高，这样就没有了山丘。
如果做不到这一点，又不得不从那里通过，他们就从山腹下的土层中凿开道路，完全穿透到另一边。
然后，他们用精湛的技术在[路面]上建造一个圆顶结构，让发动机通过。
我们乘坐另一条铁路从巴黎前往他们的一个花园。
59 一路上，我们经过了许多地方的山下，发现自己身处一片漆黑之中，尽管是白天，我们也不得不点亮灯。
我们在地底下走了半英里。
当我们出来时，我们[回头看]，发现树木、建筑和农田都在我们的上方，而我们正从下方经过。

 

There are two kinds of iron roads. One type is built by the state that is to say, what we call the "state treasury." The other type, which is the more common, is built by (private] businessmen and is a form of commerce there. They get together a group who are in agreement about doing it, and then estimate how much it will cost. If they say it will be a million [francs], for example, they then divide that million among ten people, each one giving a hundred thousand. Then they write out ten papers, specifying the agreement in writing, so that it is known that whoever holds one of these papers has paid for building such-and-such road. Likewise, he will draw from its profits in proportion to what he has paid in, such as a tenth in this case. After they write out the papers they sell them for a hundred thousand [francs] each, until all the papers are sold. The million is then collected, and they pay it out bit by bit, for the workers and for whatever else is needed in the way of materials and so on. When it is completed and people begin to travel on it, they must pay a fee. Whatever profit comes from it is divided among the payers of the capital, each receiving an amount in proportion to what he paid in. This is only after the Sultan, or whoever is responsible, gives them permission to do this and sets a limit on the amount to be paid by the travelers and the length of time it may be collected. When the time is expired, the road returns to the state, which then takes the profits or allows people to use it for free.

 

鐵路股票股權股利

一种是国家修建的，也就是我们所说的 "国營"。
另一种比较常见，由（私人）商人修建，是当地的一种商业形式。
他们先召集一批意见一致的人，然后估算需要花费多少钱。
例如，如果他们说需要一百万[法郎]，那么他们就把这一百万分给十个人，每个人出十萬法郎。
然后，他们写出十张纸，以书面形式说明协议内容，这样就可以知道，谁持有其中一张纸，谁就为修建这样那样的道路支付了费用。
同样，他也可以从利润中按比例提取他所支付的费用，比如在这种情况下是十分之一。
写完后，他们会以每张一千[法郎]的价格出售，直到所有报纸都卖完。
然后，他们会把这些钱一点一点地付给工人，以及其他所需的材料等。
竣工后，人们开始在上面旅行，他们必须支付一定的费用。
无论从中获得多少利润，都会在出资人之间进行分配，每个人都会按照自己的出资比例获得相应的金额。
只有在苏丹或任何负责任的人允许他们这样做，并规定了旅行者应支付的金额和收取费用的期限之后，他们才能这样做。
期满后，道路归国家所有，国家将从中获利或允许人们免费使用。

 

If someone owning a paper wishes to sell it, he may do so. If it yielded much profit and interest it will be much coveted, so that he may resell it for more than he paid; or the opposite may be true. The buyer then takes the place of the seller and receives the profit. They also do this with the building of bridges; all the new bridges we saw, the traveler had to pay a toll when crossing. This kind of commerce goes on until the time expires and the [investors] remove their hands from it and people begin to use the bridge without paying, as they do with the old bridges. They also do the same thing with mining ventures. Nor is [the buying of shares] limited only to the rich; sometimes they make many papers and reduce the price of each, to make it easy for people to buy. Then each person buys what he can pay for, even if it is only one percent.

 

如果拥有一张纸的人想卖掉它，他可以这样做。
如果这张纸产生了很多利润和利息，那么它就会受到很多人的垂涎，这样他就可以以高于他所支付的价格转手出售；或者情况恰恰相反。
这样，买方就取代了卖方，获得了利润。
他们在造桥时也是这样做的；我们看到的所有新桥，旅客在通过时都必须支付通行费。
这种商业活动一直持续到时间到期，[投资者]撤出他们的手，人们开始不付费使用桥梁，就像他们使用旧桥一样。
他们对采矿企业也是这样做的。
购买股票]也不只限于富人；有时他们会发行许多股票，并降低每张股票的价格，以方便人们购买。
这样，每个人都能买到他能支付的股票，哪怕只有百分之一。

Our travel by the iron road came to an end with our arrival in a great high room that was within the walls of the city of Paris. This is the place where the engines of steam arrive and depart that is, their home port-just like the one from which they set out in the city of Orléans. We entered Paris at midday Sunday, the twentyeighth day of the month of Dhu al-Hijja al-Harām, the end of the year 1261, corresponding to the 28th of December, the end of the year 1845 since the birth of Jesus, peace be unto him, according to the calendar of Rüm. Our trip from Marseille to Paris took seven days, and from Tetuan to Paris, fifteen days.

 

随着我们到达巴黎城墙内的一个高大房间，我们的铁道之旅也就结束了。
这里是蒸汽机进出的地方，也就是它们的母港--就像它们从奥尔良市出发时的母港一样。
我们是在周日中午进入巴黎的，这一天是 1261 年末的 Dhu al-Hijja al-Harām 月的第 28 天，相当于 12 月 28 日，根据吕姆历法，这一天是耶稣（愿主赐福之）诞生以来的第 1845 年末。
我们从马赛到巴黎用了 7 天，从Tetuan到巴黎用了 15 天。

On our return, 2 after leaving the carriages [pulled by] the steam engine we went by coach, taking a different route. One of the cities we visited was Toulon; we did not mention it before because we visited it only on our return from Paris. When we reached Aix, we left the road to Marseille and went instead in the direction of Toulon by a route that was difficult and exhausting because of the steep mountains. The way was sparsely settled, being mostly vineyards and olive groves, with a few orange trees at the approach to it.

土伦

回程时，在离开[由]蒸汽机拉动的车厢后 2 分钟，我们乘坐长途汽车，走的是另一条路线。
我们游览的城市之一是土伦；我们之前没有提到它，因为我们是从巴黎返回时才去的。
当我们到达艾克斯时，我们离开了去马赛的路，改走土伦方向，由于山路陡峭，这条路既难走又累人。
一路上人烟稀少，主要是葡萄园和橄榄树林，临近的地方还有几棵橘子树。

Toulon is home port for their marines and their ships of war. Although the port is small, it is heavily fortified with double walls, and in front is a deep, wide trench. The gate to the city is on the other side of the trench, and [to reach it] one must cross over a bridge which is raised at night and lowered by day. The town is encircled by fortifications bristling with cannon. There is no commerce there, and only a small market, for its main purpose is as a naval base. The port itself is very large and is situated in an inlet between the mountains, which shelter it from the wind. It is well protected by fortifications, and its shore is built up on all sides. Near the port are storehouses and a repair shop for ships and their equipment, which they call an arsenal These are very tall, huge rooms which a warship can enter in its entirety. Once it is inside the room, they raise it up on wooden posts to repair it. It is drawn out of the water by a moving force and lifted onto a wooden cradle, which they pull into the room. When the work is completed, it is returned to the water in the same way.

 

土伦是其海军陆战队和战舰的母港。
港口虽小，却有重兵把守，有双层城墙，前面是一条又深又宽的壕沟。
城门在壕沟的另一侧，[要到达城门]必须通过一座夜间升起、白天降下的桥梁。
该城被大炮林立的防御工事包围。
那里没有商业，只有一个小市场，因为它的主要用途是作为海军基地。
港口本身非常大，位于群山之间的入海口，可以遮风挡雨。
港口有完备的防御工事，海岸线四面都有建筑。
港口附近有仓库和船只及其设备的修理厂，他们称之为兵工厂。
战舰进入房间后，他们会用木柱把战舰抬起来修理。
战舰被一股移动的力量从水中拉出，然后被抬到一个木制的摇篮上，再被拉进房间。
工作完成后，再以同样的方式将其放回水中。

On our arrival the chief of a ship, whom they call amiral, insisted that we visit some of the ships in the port. We had to comply, and they chose for us some of their best launches. We rode in one up to a steam-powered warships and boarded. We saw its artillery pieces and cannon and the rest of its equipage, the fitness of its soldiers, the setting of everything in its proper place, the speed and obedience with which they followed the captain's orders, the energy, discipline, and precision of the men, which goes along with their enormous power, their singleness of purpose, and their readiness for any eventuality.

 

我们抵达时，一艘船的船长（他们称之为海军上将）要求我们参观港口的一些船只。
我们只好答应，他们为我们挑选了几艘最好的汽艇。
我们乘坐一艘蒸汽动力军舰登船参观。
我们看到了军舰上的火炮和大炮以及其他装备，看到了舰员们的体能，看到了他们把所有东西都摆放在合适的位置上，看到了他们听从船长命令的速度和服从性，看到了他们的精力、纪律和精确性，这与他们巨大的力量、坚定的目标和对任何突发事件的准备是分不开的。

Before leaving this ship we saw one of the strangest things we found there. They were sweetening the seawater until it became drinkable. They did this by bringing it up from the sea by some means and putting it in a vessel inside an oven to boil. I saw what they did with it after that; it came out of another spigot cold and sweet. It might take the place of fresh water, but it was not the same in sweetness, although one could make do with it if necessary. We asked their chief about it and he told us this: they let the water drip until its saltiness rises to the top and its sweetness stays below-or perhaps it is the opposite but I could not verify it at the time because of the lack of a fluent interpreter. He also told us that rainwater rises from the sea with its saltiness removed by the sun's heat. Here the heat of the fire replaces the heat of the sun. This is what he said, but he did not convince us of the truth of how it was done, although he tried. Indeed, one's own experience is the best measure of truth.

给海水加糖

在离开这艘船之前，我们在那里看到了一件最奇怪的事情。
他们在给海水加糖，直到海水可以饮用。
他们用某种方法把海水从海里提上来，然后放在一个炉子里的容器中煮沸。
我看到他们之后是怎么做的；从另一个水龙头流出的水又凉又甜。
它可以代替淡水，但甜度却不一样，尽管必要时可以用它来做饭。
我们询问了他们的酋长，他告诉我们：
他们让水滴到咸味上升到顶端，而甜味停留在下面--或许正好相反，但由于没有流利的翻译，我当时无法证实。
他还告诉我们，雨水从海中升起时，其咸味会被太阳的热量带走。
在这里，火的热量取代了太阳的热量。
他是这么说的，但他并没有让我们相信这是真的，尽管他尝试过。
事实上，自己的经验才是衡量真理的最好标准。

We went up on that ship to the sound of music and drums; and afterward, when we returned to our launch, they raised the flag of our Sultan to the top of the mast above their own. And they fired cannons of rejoicing more than a hundred and thirty times. Then we went to another, a huge man-of-war with a hundred and two guns, so immense and well-equipped that it is difficult to imagine. All in all, this ship is a fortified city at sea, and we found there musicians and soldiers in great number. After we came aboard, they raised our flag above theirs and asked us to tour the ship to see what was there, for it is their nature to delight in showing off what they have, and they never leave a thing, whether significant or otherwise, without pointing it out. As for our reception on that huge ship, on the surface they manifest nothing but pleasure, but inside they fear us as well as delight in us. Praise be to God that we have no fear of them, for it is only God that we fear.

 

我们在音乐和鼓声中登上那艘船；之后，当我们回到自己的船上时，他们把我们苏丹的旗帜升到了桅杆顶端，高过他们自己的旗帜。
他们发射了一百三十多次欢庆的大炮。
然后，我们又去了另一艘船，这是一艘拥有一百零二门大炮的巨型战舰，其规模之大、装备之精良难以想象。
总而言之，这艘船就是一座海上坚固的城市，我们在那里发现了大量的医生和士兵。
我们上船后，他们把我们的旗帜升到了他们的旗帜上方，并要求我们参观船上的一切，因为他们的天性就是喜欢炫耀他们所拥有的一切，他们从不放过任何一样东西，不管是重要的还是不重要的，他们都会一一指出。
至于我们在那艘巨轮上受到的接待，他们表面上只表现出高兴，但内心却对我们又怕又喜。
感谢上帝，我们并不惧怕他们，因为我们惧怕的只是上帝。

They showed us the manner in which they fire the guns on this ship. If they wish to do battle, each man has his special task and appointed place, either sitting or standing, and if another is in it, he is remiss. When the captain comes around, they stand at attention and then each goes about his work: the one in charge of gunpowder busies himself with setting the charge in the gun to which he is assigned, and not another; likewise the one who aims the gun, and the one who pulls and pushes it [back into place]. As soon as they find their posts they get to work, and so it is with each cannon and its crew. The upshot of this is that each one has his assigned task and does nothing else, each crew has its own gun and works only that one. If their captain comes around they do not stand before him and say, "What should I do?", nor do two of them undertake the work of one, nor do they all gather around one gun and leave another unused, for that is idleness. At the very moment when their chief bellows at them, they pull the cannon from its slot and fire it in an instant, as if they were a single man. They repeat this in a flash, so that one does not hear the sound of a single cannon but a continuous thundering roar. They fire, and then fire again, in the shortest time possible and with the greatest precision, exactitude, and attention. They have no special strength in their bodies that others do not have; perhaps they are even weaker than others. But they have a concern for organization and an aptitude for putting everything in its place. They construct all things on the firmest basis possible, and anticipate things before they happen. Only he who witnessed all this [with his own eyes] would accept the truth of it.

船上开炮操演

他们向我们展示了他们在船上开炮的方式。
如果他们要战斗，每个人都有自己的特殊任务和指定位置，或坐或站，如果其他人在位置上，他就会失职。
当船长走过来时，他们立正站好，然后各司其职：
负责火药的人忙着把火药装进他所负责的火炮里，而不是其他人；同样，瞄准火炮的人和把火炮[推回原位]的人也是如此。
他们一找到自己的岗位就开始工作，每门大炮和炮组都是如此。
这样做的结果是，每个人都有自己的任务，不做其他任何事情，每个炮组都有自己的炮，只负责那门炮。
如果他们的队长来了，他们不会站在他面前说 "我该怎么办？"，也不会两个人干一个人的活，更不会都围在一门炮旁，让另一门炮闲着，因为那是无所事事。
当他们的首领向他们吼叫的那一刻，他们就会把大炮从炮膛里拉出来，并在瞬间开火，就像他们是一个人一样。
他们在瞬间重复这样的动作，因此人们听到的不是单一的炮声，而是持续不断的雷鸣般的轰响。
他们在最短的时间内，以最精确、准确和专注的方式发射，然后再发射。
他们的身体没有其他人所没有的特殊力量，也许他们甚至比其他人更弱。
但他们注重条理，善于把所有东西摆放到合适的位置。
他们把一切都建立在最坚实的基础上，在事情发生之前就能预料到。
只有亲眼目睹这一切的人，才会接受其中的真理。

When they tired of this we returned to our boats and circled around the port amongst the ships. Whenever we drew alongside a ship its troops would line up on deck and greet us with music. Over fifty warships were there, for the French have no [naval] port on the Small Sea other than this, although they have other ports on the coast of the Great Sea, for the land of France extends along two seas. Our stay in Toulon was one whole day, not counting the day we arrived and the day we left. We left it for Marseille, which we reached in six hours. Praise be to God the Provider of good fortune and the Guide to the straight path.

 

当他们厌倦了这一切后，我们回到自己的船上，在港口的船只之间绕圈。
每当我们靠上一艘船，船上的士兵就会在甲板上列队，用音乐向我们致意。
那里有 50 多艘军舰，因为法国人在小海没有其他港口，尽管他们在大海之滨也有其他港口，因为法国的国土绵延两海。
我们在土伦停留了整整一天，这还不算我们抵达和离开的那一天。
我们离开土伦前往马赛，六个小时后到达马赛。
感谢上帝，他是幸运的赐予者，也是正确道路的指引者。

NOTES：

59. This was the railroad line between Paris and Versailles, the scene of a terrible rail disaster in 1842. Schivelbusch, Railway Journey, p. 131.

60. The bayt al-mal, the depository for the Sultan's wealth. In precolonial Morocco the treasury was located in three places-Fes, Meknes, and Marrakesh. Izz, 1. glossary, p. 401.

 

61. On financing French railroads, see F. Braudel and E. Labrousse, eds., Histoire économique et sociale de la France, vol. 3: L'avènement de l'ère industrielle (1789-1880), part 1 (Paris, 1976), pp. 257-62; Pinkney, Decisive Years, pp. 36-37,45-46.

62. Aş-Şaffär interjects here his narrative of "the return," so that his report on Paris, which follows, is set apart as the high point of the journey.

63. In Arabic, țarsana. This word came originally from Arabic, dar şan'a, a "house of craft," but in the special sense of "an establishment for the construction and equipment of warships." It then passed into European languages (Italian arsenale, French arsenal) and later returned to Arabic in a new form. Dozy 1:420; EI 2, 5.v. "Dar al-Şinā'a."

 

64. Al-mirand, from the French amiral, another word borrowed from Arabic (amir al-, "commander of") which later returned to it in another form. Muqaddimah 2:37.

 

65. Bābür qurşal. This vessel was the Descartes, described as "a fine steamship of 540 horses" by Pourcet, who added that the Moroccans "examined every part in detail, asking for explanations about everything." AAE/CPM 16/35-37, Pourcet to Guizot, 2 March 1846.

66. Näbyūs, probably from Spanish navio, "ship." This was the Jemmapes, which had participated in the bombardment of Tangier two years before. See Introduction, note 61.

註解：

59. 这是巴黎和凡尔赛之间的铁路线，1842 年发生了可怕的铁路灾难。
Schivelbusch, Railway Journey, 第 131 页。

60. bayt al-mal，苏丹的财富存放处。
在前殖民时期的摩洛哥，国库位于三个地方--菲斯、梅克内斯和马拉喀什。
Izz, 1. 词汇表，第 401 页。

61. 关于法国铁路的融资，见 F. Braudel 和 E. Labrousse 编辑，《法国经济史和社会史》，第 3 卷：
《工业革命（1789-1880 年）》，第 1 部分（巴黎，1976 年），第 257-62 页；Pinkney, Decisive Years, 第 36-37 页，第 45-46 页。

62. 阿斯-沙法尔在这里插入了他对 "回程 "的叙述，因此，他随后关于巴黎的报告就成为了整个旅程的高潮。

63. 阿拉伯语为 țarsana。
该词最初来源于阿拉伯语 dar şan'a，意为 "工艺馆"，但其特殊含义是 "建造和装备战舰的机构"。
该词后来传入欧洲语言（意大利语的 arsenale，法语的 arsenal），后来又以新的形式回到阿拉伯语中。
Dozy 1:420；EI 2，5.v. "Dar al-Şinā'a"。

64. Al-mirand 源自法语 amiral，这是从阿拉伯语（amir al-，"指挥官"）借用的另一个词，后来以另一种形式回到阿拉伯语中。
穆卡迪玛》2:37。

65. Bābür qurşal。
这艘船就是笛卡尔号，Pourcet 将其描述为 "一艘有 540 匹马的高级蒸汽船"，他还补充说，摩洛哥人 "详细检查了每一个部分，要求对每件事进行解释"。
AAE/CPM 16/35-37，Pourcet 致 Guizot，1846 年 3 月 2 日。

66. Näbyūs，可能来自西班牙语 navio，"船"。
这就是两年前参与轰炸丹吉尔的 Jemmapes 号。
见导言，注 61。