2-2 OUR JOURNEY BY LAND FROM MARSEILLE TO PARIS
2-2 我們從馬賽到巴黎的陸路旅程
You should know that according to the rules
of the road in this country, the traveler need not carry with him either food
or bed- ding, or any of his worldly possessions. He need only take with him his
dirhams, riyāls, or gold, for he can buy whatever he wants along the way. This
is because most of the way is populated and the trav- eler leaves one settled
place only to enter another. In each town, he will find a marketplace where
everything he needs is sold, and a place to spend the night, called either a
locanda or a posada. If there is a place for sleeping and eating, it is the
second; but if there is only a place for sleeping and one must bring food from
the marketplace,it is the first.
你们应该知道，根据这个国家的交通规则，旅行者不需要随身携带食物、床铺或任何世俗财产。 他只需随身携带迪拉姆、里亚尔或黄金，因为他可以在沿途购买任何他想要的东西。 这是因为大部分路途上都是人烟稀少，旅行者离开一个定居的地方，就会进入另一个地方。 在每个城镇，他都会发现一个集市，在那里可以卖到他所需要的一切，还有一个可以过夜的地方，叫做 "locanda "或 "posada"。 如果有睡觉和吃饭的地方，那就是第二个地方；但如果只有睡觉的地方，而且必须从集市上带食物，那就是第一个地方。
This is a large house with many rooms, each
with windows as tall as a man, which overlook the streets and markets below. In
each room are one or more beds with sheets, a cover, and a mattress, all very
soft and clean. The floor is usually carpeted with a fine rug which one walks
on while wearing shoes, for it is not their custom to remove them except when
getting into bed. The windows are covered with a curtain made of something like
silk. There are also chairs for sitting, for they know nothing about sitting on
the floor, nor would their clothing allow it because of the tightness of their
trousers. In the middle of the room is a table of fine wood or marble for
writing or reading. There is also a wardrobe made of wood that shines like a
mirror and has drawers for keeping clothes or other things of value. Under each
bed is a little box, and inside is a clean pot for relieving oneself.
这是一座有很多房间的大房子，每个房间都有一人多高的窗户，可以俯瞰下面的街道和市场。 每个房间都有一张或多张床，床单、床罩和床垫都非常柔软干净。 地板上通常铺着细地毯，人们穿着鞋在上面行走，因为除了上床睡觉，他们没有脱鞋的习惯。 窗户上挂着类似丝绸的窗帘。
房间里还有供人坐的椅子，因为他们不懂得坐在地板上，他们的衣服也不允许他们坐在地板上，因为他们的裤子太紧了。 房间中间有一张上等木材或大理石做的桌子，用来写字或看书。 还有一个木制衣柜，像镜子一样闪闪发光，里面有抽屉，可以放衣服或其他值钱的东西。 每张床下面都有一个小盒子，里面有一个干净的盆子，可以用来解手。
Most of the large rooms are lit by many
candles held in a cluster like stars. They also have one or two large mirrors
on the wall, each so clear and tall that someone not paying close attention
would think it an open way. Each room must have a pitcher for water set in a
basin along with small, clean, folded towels for washing. In most of the rooms
are pictures of the countryside, trees, people, animals, boats and the sea, and
the like. This is a very important matter with them and they do not leave any
place bare. The room might also have vases of flowers made of paper and covered
with glass, so that their color will never fade, and sometimes a piano, which
is one of their amusements and ways of making music.
大多数大房间里都点着许多蜡烛，像星星一样簇拥在一起。 墙上还挂着一两面大镜子，每一面镜子都是那么清晰、高大，不仔细看还以为是一条明路。 每个房间的脸盆里都必须有一个盛水的水壶，还有干净、折叠好的小毛巾供人清洗。 大多数房间里都挂着乡村、树木、人物、动物、船只和大海等图片。 这对他们来说是一件非常重要的事情，他们不会放过任何一个地方。 房间里还可能摆放着用纸做的花瓶，花瓶上覆盖着玻璃，这样花的颜色就不会褪色，有时还会摆放一架钢琴，这是他们的娱乐之一，也是他们演奏音乐的一种方式。
Each room must also have a small stove
built of marble or the like in a pleasing shape, where a wood fire burns in
cold and rainy weather. It has a chimney open to the outside. The room is not
bothered by smoke in the least because the chimney is well made and the wood is
clean and dry. This is a necessity in every room, whether its owner is humble
or well-to-do. The room may also have an inkpot and pen and other implements
for writing. All these things are the furnishings of their rooms, although
there may be variations depending on the owner's wealth.
每个房间还必须有一个用大理石或类似材料砌成的小炉子，形状美观，在寒冷和下雨的天气里可以烧柴火。 炉子的烟囱通向室外。 因为烟囱做得很好，木柴也干净干燥，所以房间里丝毫没有烟味。 这是每个房间的必备条件，无论房间的主人是简陋还是富裕。 房间里可能还有墨斗、笔和其他书写用具。 所有这些都是他们房间的陈设，尽管会因主人的富裕程度而有所不同。
In this place are many servants, both male
and female, as well as cooks and a kitchens containing all sorts of cooking
equipment. When someone enters they take him upstairs to one of the rooms. If
he desires food, he orders the servant to bring what he wants in the way of
main dishes, fruits, and sweets. When he finishes eating and is ready to leave,
the servant gives him a paper telling the price he must pay. If he wants a
place to stay, he may choose whatever room he likes, according to his means.
The servant brings every- thing and it is not necessary to call him for every
small task, or to move from one's place when doing so. Inside every room is a
rope, and each rope is connected to another. When it is pulled, its move- ment
causes a bell to sound, bringing the servant quickly. The servant recognizes
from which room it comes by a sign known to him.
这里有许多男女仆人，还有厨师和厨房，厨房里有各种烹饪设备。 当有人进来时，他们会把他带到楼上的某个房间。 如果他想吃东西，就会命令仆人端来他想要的主菜、水果和糖果。 当他吃完准备离开时，仆人会给他一张纸，告诉他必须支付的价格。 如果他想要住的地方，他可以根据自己的经济能力选择喜欢的房间。 仆人会带来各种东西，不需要为每件小事叫他，也不需要在叫他时离开自己的位置。 每个房间里都有一根绳子，每根绳子都连接着另一根绳子。 当绳子被拉动时，它的移动会使铃铛发出声响，从而使仆人迅速赶来。 仆人根据自己知道的标志，就能辨认出是从哪个房间来的。
As we have mentioned, travelers in that
country need not carry provisions with them. Another rule is that travelers do
not ride on the backs of saddled animals, or journey on foot, unless they are
soldiers or poor people, Travel is by stagecoach or wagons drawn by horses.
There are various kinds. One type is square and holds four people sitting
two-by-two on benches facing each other, so that they can stretch out their
legs underneath the opposite bench. It has windows of clear glass so the traveler
can see the road, the world, and the people along the way. He can open them if
he does not mind the heat or cold or the dust, but if he is bothered by them,
he can close them, and the light and the view will stay with him. On each bench
is a small cushion, and inside [the bench] is a place for putting a few small
things. Everything is made from fine, un- blemished wood-the floor, the sides,
even the ceiling. In fact, it is like a room, and the rider need not fear wind
or rain, heat or cold, because he is inside his room. If he wants to hide
himself so that no one will see him, or if he is annoyed by the rays of the
sun, he may lower the curtain over the windows.
正如我们所提到的，在那个国家旅行的人不需要随身携带补给品。 另一条规定是，除非是士兵或穷人，否则旅行者不得骑在有鞍牲畜的背上，也不得步行。 马车有很多种。 一种是方形的，四人两两相对坐在长凳上，这样他们就可以在对面的长凳下伸腿。 车上有透明玻璃窗，旅行者可以看到道路、世界和沿途的人。 如果不介意冷热或灰尘，他可以打开窗户，但如果觉得不舒服，他可以关上窗户，光线和景色会一直陪伴着他。 每张长凳上都有一个小垫子，[长凳]里面还可以放一些小东西。 所有的东西都是用上等的无瑕疵的木头做成的，地板、侧面，甚至天花板。 事实上，这就像一个房间，骑马者不必害怕风吹雨打、酷暑严寒，因为他就在自己的房间里。 如果他想把自己藏起来，不让别人看到，或者如果他对阳光感到厌烦，他可以把窗帘拉下来。
Outside in front is a place for the driver,
and in the rear a seat for another person, perhaps the driver's helper, or the
servant of one of the passengers. The height [of the coach] is about two cubits
from the ground, so that it is higher than that [type of small cart which is
hitched to one or more horses. The driver can also ride one of the horses
drawing the coach. He holds a switch in his hand to spur the animals to a fast
gallop, for their speed is breakneck, like a cavalry charge.
前面是车夫的座位，后面是另一个人的座位，可能是车夫的助手，也可能是乘客的仆人。 马车]离地面的高度约为两肘，因此比那种[拴着一匹或多匹马的小车]要高。 车夫也可以骑一匹拉车的马。 他手持开关，鞭策马匹快速奔跑，因为它们的速度非常快，就像骑兵冲锋一样。
There is a long type [of vehicle] which
accommodates a large number of people going in the same direction. If a person
wishes to get off along the way, the driver will let him get down and then he
will go on with the others. Most people who travel together in this way are
related, such as a man and his wife, his children, and rela- tives, or a fellow
and his friends, so they remain together during the journey. This type may have
two levels, one on top of the other, or even separate compartments. They
sometimes put the traveler's personal belongings or his wares on top, covering
them to protect them from the elements. Another type accommodates just two
people, and of this type there are many different kinds.
有一种长长的[车辆]，可以容纳很多人朝同一个方向前进。 如果有人想在途中下车，司机会让他下车，然后他再和其他人一起前行。 以这种方式一起旅行的大多数人都有亲属关系，例如男人和妻子、孩子和亲属，或者同伴和朋友，因此他们在旅途中一直在一起。 这种旅行包可能有两层，一层在另一层之上，甚至有单独的隔间。 他们有时会把旅行者的个人物品或行李放在上面，盖上盖子以防止风吹雨淋。 另一种篷车只能容纳两个人，这种篷车有很多种。
Yet another type is for carrying goods and
heavy loads. It has no roof, but they cover it to keep off the rain by
skillfully making arches from thin strips of wood and then stretching over them
a heavy cloth, like the cloth for [making] sails. This cloth is then pulled
tight and nailed down so that the goods are sheltered from the rain, as if they
were in a tent. The driver also makes a place for himself under this covering,
and the rain does not bother him either. In short, rain does not hinder travel
in this country in any way, for it disturbs neither the traveler nor his goods;
nor does it affect the road, as I am about to mention.
还有一种是用来运载货物和重物的。 它没有屋顶，但他们用细木条巧妙地做成拱门，然后在拱门上铺上厚厚的布，就像[制作]船帆的布一样，这样就可以遮风挡雨了。 然后将布拉紧并钉牢，这样货物就可以遮风挡雨，就像在帐篷里一样。 车夫也会在遮雨布下为自己留出一块地方，雨水也不会对他造成困扰。 总之，在这个国家，下雨丝毫不会妨碍旅行，因为雨水既不会打扰旅行者，也不会影响他的货物；雨水也不会影响道路，这一点我接下来会提到。
Other carts are made for carrying heavy
loads such as stones or iron or the like. These are pulled by many horses
hitched together, the number of horses depending on the quantity of weight to
be drawn. This is not a great toil or labor for them. Even if the load is
extremely heavy, only one person is needed to harness the animals or unhitch
them. As for transferring goods, it is not necessary to unload them except at
the end of the journey, for their weight rests on the cart harnessed to the
draft animals and is pulled along by them.
其他的手推車是用來運載重物的，例如石頭或鐵器等。這些車由許多匹馬拴在一起拉動，馬的數量取決於需要拉動的重量。對他們來說，這並不是一件很辛苦的事。即使是非常重的負荷，也只需要一個人來套馬具或解開馬具。至於轉運貨物，除非在旅程結束時，否則不需要卸下貨物，因為貨物的重量都放在牽引牲口的車上，並由牲口拉著前行。
透過 DeepL.com（免費版）翻譯
Thus they handle huge loads easily, without
difficulty or strain, and they carry nothing on the backs of animals. What one
animal carries on its back, another could pull ten times over provided that the
road is good. This is one of the sciences which they engage in the science of
pulling heavy loads and they have hooks written on it. Along their roads you
hear only the sounds of heavy loads and the rattling of the chains used to draw
them. The movement of freight is slow, unlike the movement of the passenger
vehicles, which is very swift.
因此，他們可以輕鬆地處理巨大的貨物，沒有任何困難或吃力，而且他們在動物背上什麼也不攜帶。只要路況良好，一頭牲畜背上馱的東西，另一頭牲畜可以拉十倍以上。這是他們拉重物的科學之一，他們在上面寫了鉤子。在他們的道路上，你只能聽到重物的聲音，以及用來拉重物的鐵鏈的響聲。貨運的速度很慢，不像客運車輛的速度非常快。
Speed is easy for them because of the
smoothness of the roads, and their excellent state of repair. This is a great
concern of theirs and a guiding principle in all matters. Their roads are like
the floor of a room, with no bumps, holes, brambles, or stones to be seen.
Wherever it begins to loosen up, they hurry to fix it, for they do not neglect
its maintenance. Everywhere we passed we found piles of stones on both sides of
the road to be used for repair. They crush them into jagged bits to strengthen
their bond. If there is a hole somewhere, they fill it with these stones. The
carts smooth out the road by grinding the stones into place when they pass,
making it even firmer than before.
對他們來說，速度很容易，因為道路平整，而且維修狀況良好。這是他們非常關心的問題，也是所有事情的指導原則。他們的道路就像房間的地板一樣，看不到顛簸、坑洞、荆棘或石頭。不管哪裡開始鬆動，他們都會趕緊修補，因為他們不會忽略維護。我們經過的每個地方，都發現路兩旁堆滿了用來修補的石頭。他們把石頭碾成鋸齒狀，以加強它們的結合。如果某處有洞，他們就用這些石頭填平。推車經過時，會將石頭磨平，使道路比以前更堅固。
If the sides of the road have a slope, they
build supports into them, and in most places the edges are planted with great
trees which shade the road. There is not a river, ditch, or canal that does not
have a bridge over it, and the entire length of our way we did not see one
person fording a river on foot or on horseback. You will not find any obstacles
on the road either. All is smooth and level, with nothing to upset an animal or
a cart. Their concern about this is so great that in certain places we found
people with brooms in their hands, smoothing over the tracks of the carts, lest
others follow in them and make ruts that would ruin the road.
如果道路兩側有斜坡，他們就會在斜坡上建造支撐物，而且在大多數地方的邊緣都會種上大樹，為道路遮蔭。沒有一條河流、溝渠或運河上沒有橋樑，在我們整個行程中，沒有看到一個人徒步或騎馬渡河。您也不會在路上發現任何障礙物。所有的路面都平整光滑，沒有任何東西會讓動物或手推車感到不安。他們非常重視這一點，以至於在某些地方，我們發現有人手拿掃帚，將車軌抹平，以免其他人跟在車軌後面，弄出車痕來破壞道路。
Another example of their concern is that
nearly every town has scales to weigh the wagons. The way they do it is with a
thick wooden board mounted on something underneath that feels the weight, and
descends according to it. They have marks for one qin- tar, for two, and so on
up to ten. As the weight increases, the board goes down. Every cart arriving at
that place must pass over this board. The horses are taken off, and the wagon
is weighed. Then they examine the wheels" [to see] if they are proper for
car- rying that weight, because they have a limit for the wideness of the rim
in proportion to the weight it bears. If the rim of the wheel is narrow and the
load heavy, the wheel leaves a deep rut that will eventually cause damage to
the road. They have another purpose in weighing carts, and it is to see whether
the load is more or less than they say. The reason for this is that they have
to pay taxes on certain goods on entering or leaving a town. They weigh them to
make sure they do not carry anything hidden on which no tax was paid.
他們關注的另一個例子是，幾乎每個鎮子都有秤來給貨車稱重。他們的方法是用一塊厚木板裝在下面的東西上，用來感受重量，然後根據重量下降。一磅有標記，兩磅有標記，依此類推直到十磅。當重量增加時，木板就會下降。到達該處的每輛車都必須經過這塊木板。馬被卸下來，車子被稱重。然後，他們檢查車輪"[看]它們是否適合承載這個重量，因為他們對輪緣的寬度有一個限制，與它所承載的重量成正比。如果輪圈狹窄而負載很重，車輪就會留下很深的車轍，最終會對道路造成損害。他們稱量推車還有另一個目的，就是看看負載是比他們說的多還是少。原因是他們在進出城鎮時要為某些貨物繳稅。他們會秤重，以確保沒有運載隱藏的未繳稅物品。
There are agents (wukala wa-nuqabā) along
the road responsible Volle for its upkeep; they have no task other than this,
and usually their houses are alongside. Another indication of their concern is
that wherever a road divides, they erect a signpost, writing on it each road
leads, and the condition of what lies ahead. At the sides ne S they have marked
the miles" in chalk so that the traveler may know where te how much
[distance] has passed since the point of departure, and how much lies ahead.
沿著道路有代理人 (wukala wa-nuqabā)，負責 Volle 的維護；他們沒有其他任務，通常他們的房子就在路旁。他們關心道路的另一個表現是，每當道路分叉時，他們就會立一個路標，上面寫著每條道路的走向，以及前方的情況。在路的兩旁，他們用粉筆標明「哩數」，這樣旅行者就可以知道從出發的地點到這裡已經經過了多少[距離]，以及前方還有多少路要走。
It happens that travel in this country is
easy both day and night, with no strain or toil, because there is complete
security. The trav- eler need not be afraid of thieves or brigands, and for
that reason you will not see anyone carrying weapons other than a soldier. The
good condition of the roads allows people to travel any time of night or day,
even deep in the countryside, because their towns do not close their gates and
have only a night watch. Indeed, most of the towns do not have an enclosing
wall or gate, so that whatever time you arrive, you may enter.
在這個國家旅行，無論白天還是黑夜都很輕鬆，沒有任何勞累或辛苦，因為有完全的安全保障。旅行者不需要害怕盜賊或強盜，因此除了士兵之外，你不會看到任何人攜帶武器。良好的道路狀況讓人們不論白天或黑夜，甚至是深入鄉間的任何時間都可以旅行，因為他們的城鎮不會關門，只有夜間才有守衛。事實上，大多數城鎮都沒有圍牆或城門，所以無論何時到達，都可以進入。
Nor are the animals exhausted, for the
horses and drivers are changed every hour. On the road are stables's that they
call in their language the poste, where many horses are kept. When a traveler
arrives here, he leaves his horses and takes fresh ones, along with a [new]
driver. They go for an hour or so to another posthouse, where horses and driver
are changed once again, so that the horses are always rested and may continue
at the same fast pace. On our trip from Marseille to Paris, more than eight
hundred horses were changed. We were in three coaches, each one drawn by ten
horses: three, three, and four.
牲畜也不會疲憊不堪，因為馬匹和司機每小時都會更換一次。路上有馬廄，他們用自己的語言稱之為 poste，那裡養了很多馬。當旅行者到達這裡時，他會留下自己的馬，換上新的馬和[新的]司機。他們要經過一小時左右才能到達另一個驛站，在那裡馬匹和司機又要重新更換一次，這樣馬匹就可以一直休息並繼續以同樣快的速度前進。在我們從馬賽到巴黎的旅途中，有八百多匹馬被換過。我們分乘三輛客車，每輛都有十匹馬拉著：三匹、三匹、四匹。
Nor does the journey keep the traveler from
sleeping, because he is at his ease inside the coach-although not entirely,
because he cannot stretch out fully. But no matter what the circumstances,
travel is always a bit of torture, just as it says in the Hadith, for it keeps
you from the full enjoyment of sleep, among other things.
旅途也不會讓旅行者無法入睡，因為他在車廂內很自在--儘管不是完全自在，因為他無法完全伸展身體。但無論在任何情況下，旅行總是有點折磨人的，就像聖經中所說的，因為它讓您無法充分享受睡眠，還有其他的事情。
[A Hadith: One day when the Prophet was
sitting in front of the Ka'bas he was asked: "Why is travel a bit of
torture?" And he answered at once: "Because of separation from one's
loved ones." The Hadiths of Ibn 'Abbās and Ibn 'Umar" agree that
travel is a bit of torture. One version has it: "Travel and profit from
it!" while another says: "Travel and earn your livelihood!" and
yet another says: "Travel and enjoy good health!" But travel does not
have to improve one's health, so long as one has some ben- efit to show for it.
Then it is not a bit of torture, but [simply] a hardship.
[一則聖訓： 有一天，當先知坐在卡巴斯前時，有人問他： 「為什麼旅行是一種折磨？」
他立刻回答：「因為與親人分離」。伊本-阿巴斯和伊本-歐麥爾的聖訓」一致認為旅行是一種折磨。其中一個版本有 「旅行並從中獲利！」而另一個版本則說：「旅行並謀生！」還有一個版本說：「旅行並享受健康！」
但旅行不一定要改善健康，只要能帶來一些好處就行。那麼它就不是一點折磨，而[只是]一種艱辛。
Whoever follows this road, traveling day
and night, will arrive in Paris from Marseille in about three days. Letters and
correspon- dence going from one city to the other take three days or less, even
though the distance between them for a person traveling on horse- back is close
to a month.
沿著這條路日夜兼程的人，大約三天就可以從馬賽到達巴黎。從一個城市到另一個城市，信件和信件之間的距離對一個騎馬旅行的人來說接近一個月，但信件和信件之間的距離卻只需要三天或更短的時間。
On our way we passed towns and villages,
hills and valleys, and rolling countryside. You should know that these people
do not have tents or huts for dwellings, for they know only buildings and
nothing else, although the [style] of buildings in the countryside differs from
that in the cities. In reality, their villages are like most of the [larger]
towns, for one finds in them whatever is found in the big city in the way of
marketplaces and goods for sale. On our way we witnessed at first hand unmistakable
evidence of their foresight and all-consuming concern for the matters of daily
life, for improv- ing their means of livelihood, and for mastering their
affairs. They are very diligent about filling up the landscape with buildings
and plantings. They do not follow the easy path or stay in the company of
laziness or neglect. You will not see any wasted or barren land, or ruined
buildings. Wherever the soil is poor, they move good soil to it from another
place. They give every kind of land what it needs. Land that will benefit from
plowing is plowed, [land] that is good for planting is planted. Furthermore,
they make a distinction in planting between what thrives in heavy soil and what
grows in light, and earth and stones good for building are set aside for that.
一路上，我們經過城鎮、村落、山丘、山谷和綿延起伏的鄉間小路。你應該知道，這些人的住所沒有帳篷或小屋，因為他們只懂建築，不懂其他，儘管鄉間的建築[風格]與城市不同。實際上，他們的村莊就像大多數
[較大的] 城鎮一樣，因為在他們的村莊中，人們可以找到大城市中的任何集市和待售商品。我們在途中親眼目睹了他們的遠見和對日常生活、改善生計和管理事務的全心關注。他們非常勤奮地用建築和種植來填滿景色。他們不隨波逐流，也不與懶惰或疏忽為伍。您不會看到任何荒廢或貧瘠的土地，或破壞的建築物。在土壤貧瘠的地方，他們會把好的土壤從另一個地方移到那裡。他們給予每種土地所需的東西。有利於耕種的土地就耕種，有利於種植的土地就種植。此外，他們在種植時會區分在厚土中茁壯成長的植物和在薄土中生長的植物，並會為此預留適合建築的泥土和石頭。
Their trees are almost entirely cultivated,
even if they are at the tops of mountains or deep within gullies. 20 They leave
no spot bare, and even plant trees by ditches and streams and on the banks of
rivers, yet they are not swept away. They do not neglect their up-keep, and
prune them whenever necessary. Nor is their concern limited to fruit-bearing
trees, for they are few in number compared with others. Most trees bear no
fruit, their only benefit being shade, firewood, and lumber. As for fruit
trees, the olive is plentiful in the region of Toulon and Marseille, but it
does not become overgrown as it does in Morocco. Usually [the trees] are
harvested from the ground and deliberately kept small so the fruit will grow
large and the limbs strong. The oil is exceptionally sweet and clear. In fact
there is a saying about French olive oil that goes like this: "Take a
little of it to other parts because of its sweetness."
他們的樹木幾乎都是栽培的，即使是在山頂或深溝裡。20 他們不遺漏任何地方，甚至在溝渠、溪流和河岸種植樹木，但這些樹木也不會被捲走。他們不忽略樹木的養護，必要時會修剪樹木。他們所關心的也不僅限於會結果的樹木，因為與其他樹木相比，這些樹木的數量很少。大多數樹木都不結果，它們唯一的好處就是遮蔭、燒柴和製造木材。至於果樹，土倫（Toulon）和馬賽（Marseille）地區盛產橄欖，但不會像摩洛哥一樣雜草叢生。通常 [樹木] 都是從地裡採收，並刻意保持小樹，這樣果實才會長得大，樹枝才會強壯。橄欖油特別甜美清澈。事實上，有句關於法國橄欖油的諺語是這樣說的：「拿一點到其他地方去」：
「因為它的甜味，所以帶一點到其他地方」。
There are also many almond trees,
particularly in the region of Marseille and its environs. They have both the
sweet and the bitter almond, and their appreciation for the bitter is the same
as for the sweet, or perhaps greater, for they use it in pastry and in
soap-mak- ing, among other things. They have many walnut and mulberry trees,
but the male of the species is more common there than the female. Also there
are apples, pears, plums, peaches, and cherries, but few apricots, according to
what we saw. They keep fruit throughout the year by drying it and preserving it
with sugar; no table would be without it. Likewise, fig trees are sparse, and
we saw only a few in the region of Marseille and Toulon.
法國也有許多杏仁樹，尤其是在馬賽及其周邊地區。他們既有甜杏仁，也有苦杏仁，他們對苦杏仁的欣賞與甜杏仁相同，甚至更甚，因為他們用苦杏仁製作糕點和肥皂等。他們有許多胡桃樹和桑樹，但是雄性比雌性更常見。他們也有蘋果、梨、李子、桃子和櫻桃，但根據我們所見，杏子很少。他們一年四季都會把水果曬乾，用糖保存，餐桌上少不了水果。同樣地，無花果樹也很稀少，我們只在馬賽和土隆地區看到幾棵。
Orange trees are plentiful there, but they
keep them in boxes.21 If it is a hot, summery day, they put them outside in the
open air; if it is cold, snowy, or rainy, they bring them in for fear of their
withering. In Paris we saw many rooms having windows and a roof of glass, in
which they were set out in perfect order. On a sunny day,the [rooms] are opened
up to let the air in; on a cold day they are closed. These boxes are huge, as
are the trees in them. The date on one box showed that [the tree] was more than
four hundred years old. They bring the boxes in and out with much pushing and
pulling, to which they are quite accustomed. We did not see oranges planted in
the ground, except a few in the region of Toulon. They told us that they also
grow on an island in the sea facing Toulon.* Pomegranate trees are quite rare,
and we saw them too in the [glassed-in] rooms.
21 如果是炎熱的夏天，他們會把橘子放在外面的露天場所；如果是寒冷、下雪或下雨天，他們會把橘子帶進來，因為他們害怕橘子枯萎。在巴黎，我們看到很多房間都有玻璃窗和玻璃屋頂，房間裡的擺設井然有序。在陽光普照的日子裡，這些 [房間] 會打開，讓空氣進入；在寒冷的日子裡，這些
[房間] 則會關閉。這些箱子很大，裡面的樹木也很大。其中一個箱子上的日期顯示 [這棵樹] 已有四百多年的樹齡。他們推拉著箱子進進出出，已經習慣了。我們沒有看到橘子 除了土隆地區的一些地方。他們告訴我們，在面向土倫的海中一個島上也種植了石榴。*石榴樹相當罕見，我們在[裝有玻璃的]房間裡也看到了石榴樹。
Most of their trees are of the poplar
variety, which grows mag- nificently tall. They are useful for the shade they
give on hot days, and for the wood of their limbs and trunk. Firewood is a
matter of great concern among them. The seller of wood there is like the seller
of gold, because the kindling of a fire in every room on a cold day is of the
utmost importance. You will see large open spaces heaped with wood, all of it
dry, clean, and cut into short lengths of about a cubit. Wood is sold by
weight, not by the load. They do not have open woodlands for gathering
firewood, but each one cuts wood from his own property, planting trees in his
fields and gardens for that purpose. A forest is the property of its owner and
is not open to everyone.
他們大部分的樹都是楊樹，長得非常高大。這些樹在炎熱的天氣下可以遮蔭，其樹枝和樹幹的木材也很有用。柴火是他們非常關心的問題。在那裡，賣木材的人就像賣黃金的人一樣，因為在寒冷的日子裡，在每個房間生火是最重要的。您會看到一大片空地上堆滿了木頭，所有的木頭都是乾燥、乾淨、切成一立方英吋左右的短條。木材是按重量出售的，而不是按負重出售。他們沒有開闊的林地來收集木柴，但每個人都從自己的財產中砍柴，並在田地和花園中種植樹木作為砍柴之用。森林是其主人的財產，並非對所有人開放。
They have rules about the cutting of trees,
one of them being that he who has a forest must divide it according to when the
trees ma- ture. If they reach maturity in ten years, then [the owner) divides
it into ten sections, [planting] a section each year. If it takes thirty
[years], then he makes thirty [sections], so that when he cuts the last
section, he will find that what he cut first has once again reached maturity.
Another [rule] is that he may not cut a tree until an in- spector approves it.
If the wood suits the states for shipbuilding or the like, [the inspector] will
stamp it with his stamp, claiming it when he wishes, but only after paying the
price. But if the wood is not suited for that, then the owner is free to cut it
for himself after paying a tax on the trees. Although trees are found
everywhere in their country, not a single piece of wood is unclaimed, not even
a twig. They watch over all of it, large and small, and do not permit it to
leave their hands except at a price.
他們有砍伐樹木的規定，其中之一是擁有森林的人必須根據樹木的成熟時間來分割森林。如果樹木在十年內成熟，那麼 [擁有者] 將森林分成十個部分，每年 [種植] 一個部分。如果需要三十年，那麼他就分成三十[段]，這樣，當他砍下最後一段時，他會發現他先砍下的樹木已經再次成熟。另一項[規則]是，他必須得到主管的批准，才能砍伐樹木。如果木材適合造船或其他類似用途，[檢查員] 會在木材上蓋上他的印章，並在他想要的時候認領，但必須先付錢。但如果木頭不適合做那種用途，那麼物主就可以在繳納樹木稅之後，自由地為自己砍伐。儘管在他們的國家，樹木隨處可見，但沒有一塊木頭是無人認領的，甚至連樹枝也沒有。他們看管著所有的木材，無論大小，除非付出代價，否則不允許木材離開他們的手。
Another of their rules, and a basic tenet
of their legal code, 27 is that the whole of France is inviolable, and no one
is allowed to tres- pass on the property of another. 28 Whoever does so is
punished with a penalty that is known to all. And there is no way of pleading
or paying one's way out of it. Along the road we saw low hedges sep- arating
the [public] way from private land. One of our [French] companions told us that
he who steps over the line with one foot is imprisoned for five years, and he
who stands completely inside [is jailed] for fifteen. So you do not see anyone,
man or beast, wander- ing about on the property of another, even if it is an
open field. The owner alone uses his land, not sharing it with others; even his
ani- mals are allowed to graze on it only rarely. The mainstay [for the
animals] is cut forage. Each person plants on his own land whatever he harvests
for food or forage during the year, using it himself or selling it to others.
We did not see any pastureland where forage grew [untended], as we have here in
Morocco.
他們的另一條規則，也是其法典的基本原則，27 就是整個法國都不容侵犯，任何人都不允許剝奪他人的財產。28 任何這樣做的人都會受到眾所周知的懲罰。而且沒有任何辯解或補償的辦法。沿著道路，我們看到低矮的籬笆將 [公共] 道路與私人土地分隔開來。我們的一位[法國]同伴告訴我們，用一隻腳跨過籬笆的人會被監禁五年，而完全站在籬笆內的人[會被監禁]十五年。因此，你不會看到任何人，無論是人還是牲畜，在他人的土地上遊蕩，即使那是一片空地。土地的主人獨自使用他的土地，不與他人分享；即使是他的牲畜，也只允許在很少的情況下放牧。牲畜的主要食物是割下的草料。每個人都會在自己的土地上種植一年中收穫的食物或草料，自己使用或賣給他人。我們沒有看到任何牧場的草料是[無人照料的]，就像我們在摩洛哥一樣。
Another benefit of the trees mentioned
above is the huge timbers which help in building and other tasks, and the
boards from which they make doors, boxes, and things of wood such as ships,
boats, masts, and the like. They train a tree from an early age to grow
straight as a shaft, so that it is suitable for masts and so on. Their need for
wood in building is great because the partitions between rooms are painted
wood. One realizes this only after a close inspec- tion. Only the exterior
walls are built of stone.
上面提到的樹木的另一個好處是巨大的木材，有助於建築和其他工作，他們用木板製造門、箱子和木制的東西，如船、舟、桅杆等。他們從很小的時候就開始訓練一棵樹，讓它長得像豎井一樣直，這樣就適合製作桅杆等。他們在建築方面對木材的需求很大，因為房間之間的隔板都是油漆過的木材。只有在仔細檢查之後才能發現這一點。只有外牆是用石頭建造的。
In planting trees, they align them in a way
that is marvelous to the point of perfection. They make the rows equal and the
lines parallel, so that not a single tree protrudes out from the next. You see
long alleys between the rows of trees with no undulations; all the rows appear
to be connected and absolutely straight. They put them in lines and sections
according to their various kinds. Because of this arrangement in planting, the
rest of the land is left free for plowing. Usually they do not leave cropland
entirely bare, but grow trees at the edges, which does not prevent them from
working the middle.
在種樹時，他們將樹木排列得非常完美。他們讓行列相等，線條平行，因此沒有一棵樹會從下一棵樹中伸出來。你會看到樹行之間有一條長長的小巷，沒有任何起伏；所有的樹行看起來都是連成一線，絕對筆直。他們根據不同的種類將樹木排列成不同的線條和區段。由於這樣的種植安排，其餘的土地都可以空出來耕種。通常他們不會讓耕地完全裸露，而是在邊緣種植樹木，但這並不妨礙他們在中間耕作。
They have a great concern, one might even
say an obsession, for the cultivation of the grape. Their vineyards are even
more numer- ous than their croplands because of their passion for wine, which
is one of their necessities of life. If you spilled out all their wine, it
would fill up the sea. As for the arable land, it is sufficient when well
tended. In the region of Paris there is much good land, and the flour of Paris
is extremely white and pure.
他們對葡萄的種植非常關注，甚至可以說是痴迷。他們的葡萄園甚至比耕地還多，因為他們熱愛葡萄酒，葡萄酒是他們的生活必需品之一。如果您把他們所有的葡萄酒都倒出來，就會滿溢大海。至於耕地，只要好好耕作就足夠了。巴黎地區有很多良田，而且巴黎的麵粉非常白淨。
Another of their rules of planting is that
the state gives a prize to whoever excels over others in farming, thereby
encouraging each one to work hard and harvest more than the rest. Another of
their rules is that if their land produces sufficient grain, they are not al-
lowed to import grain from outside. Even if it comes in only to be milled and
leaves again, its entry and exit will be by weight, lest some of it stay behind
and ruin the market for the grain grown in their own country. Otherwise they
might become lax in planting, and in the future run short. However, if their
yield is insufficient, they are permitted to buy it from other lands, and they
exempt it from taxes to encourage its coming from afar. Most of their land is
not fertile and verdant like the land of Morocco. The soil is not flattened
down by constant walking, yet once the crops have been harvested, it stays
heavy, hard, and coarse, despite the constant dig- ging, working, and manuring.
They get out of it what they can. We did not see any of the green grass or new
growth that we have here in winter.
他們的另一項種植規則是，誰在耕作方面比別人優勝，國家就會給予獎勵，從而鼓勵每個人努力工作，比其他人多收穫一些。他們的另一個規則是，如果他們的土地生產了足夠的穀物，他們就不用從外面進口穀物。即使穀物只是進來碾磨後再離開，其進出也要以重量計算，以免部分穀物滯留，破壞自己國家種植穀物的市場。否則，他們可能會疏於種植，以至於將來糧食短缺。但是，如果他們的產量不足，他們可以從其他國家購買，並且免稅，以鼓勵遠道而來的糧食。他們的土地大多不像摩洛哥的土地一樣肥沃翠綠。土壤不會因為不斷的行走而變平，然而一旦作物收成後，儘管經過不斷的挖掘、耕作和施肥，土壤仍然是沉重、堅硬和粗糙的。他們能從中得到什麼就得到什麼。我們沒有看到任何綠色的草或新的生長，就像我們在這裡的冬天一樣。
On our way we saw many rivers and streams,
all of them navi- gated by large and small boats, and even steamers. Their
riverboats are long and flat-bottomed, since the rivers are not deep like the
ocean; but what they take off from their depth, they add to their length. Boats
are found in small rivers as well as large ones, for if the river is too
shallow, they dig it out, widening its course until the boat can pass. Nor do
they limit themselves to rivers that open up to others naturally, but make it
happen by excavating in between. If two rivers run parallel with no connection,
they make a channel allowing boats to pass from one to the other. You will not
see a river with its banks silted up, or one deviating from its course, or
other results of neglect. Instead, they keep them in perfect condition. Most of
the riverbanks are solidly built up.
一路上，我們看見了許多河流和小溪，這些河流和小溪都有大大小小的船隻航行，甚至還有蒸汽船。他們的河船又長又平底，因為河水不像海洋那麼深；但是他們從河水的深度減去的部分，又加到了河水的長度上。小河和大河都有船，因為如果河水太淺，他們會把河道挖開，把河面擴闊，直到船可以通過為止。它們也不只限於自然開通的河流，而是透過在兩河之間挖掘，讓它成為可能。如果兩條河流並行但沒有任何連接，他們就會開闢出一條河道，讓船隻可以從一條河駛到另一條河。您不會看到河岸淤塞、偏離河道或其他疏忽的結果。相反地，他們讓河岸保持完美狀態。大多數的河岸都建得很堅固。
If there is a road running alongside, they
often build up its edge as part of the riverbank, shoring it with heavy stone
posts. Then they stretch long pieces of wood along the tops of the posts,
nailing them in place. This keeps the road from being ruined and the carts from
tipping over; it also prevents the barrier from sliding down the slope.
如果河岸旁有道路，他們通常會將道路邊緣築成河岸的一部分，並用沉重的石柱支撐起來。然後，他們沿著柱子的頂端伸展長木塊，用釘子將它們釘到位。這樣可以防止道路被毀壞，也可以防止推車翻倒；同時還可以防止護欄從斜坡上滑下。
There are many rivers in that country. Among
the largest and most renowned that we passed is a river called the Rhône, which
appears in the outskirts of the city of Lyon, where it meets another called the
Saône. It leaves Lyon heading east and ends in the Small Sea west of Marseille.
3º On its way it meets other rivers, which add to it and increase its waters so
that in some places it seems like a sea, with large steamers traveling on it.
And they call all of it the Rhône. Along its banks between Lyon and Marseille
are many towns and huge bridges of different types, and forests and vineyards.
It swells with a plentitude of rain, and diminishes with a lack of it, but its
trees and embankments are not affected by floods because their con- struction
is solid.
這個國家有許多河流。在我們經過的最大、最著名的河流中，有一條叫羅納河（Rhône）的河流，它出現在里昂市郊，在那裡與另一條叫索恩河（Saône）的河流相遇。它離開里昂向東而去，終點在馬賽以西的小海（Small Sea）。3º 它在途中與其他河流相遇，這些河流增加了它的水量，使它在某些地方看起來像一片海，有大型蒸汽船在上面航行。他們稱之為羅納河。里昂和馬賽之間的河岸上有許多城鎮和不同類型的巨型橋樑，還有森林和葡萄園。雨水充沛時，河水會漲大，雨水不足時，河水會減少，但河岸上的樹木和堤防不會受到洪水的影響，因為它們的結構非常堅固。
A river called the Loire flows between Lyon
and Paris and then westward until it empties into the Great Sea. We saw it
first on our way to Paris in the city of Roanne, and we never left it until we
passed Orléans, which is on the last stage of the route to Paris. It too has
towns and farmland along its banks; large boats travel on it. It connects with
[lesser] streams, but all of it is called the Loire. It passes through many
villages, and in some places it is crossed by marvelous bridges of different
shapes, even in the midst of towns, about which I shall say more later. Another
river, called the Seine, flows through the city of Paris, as I mentioned,
heading west until it reaches the Great Sea. These are the largest rivers we
saw, but there are many small ones and almost all flow into one another; and if
not, it is made to happen, as I have said.
有一條河叫盧瓦爾河，流經里昂和巴黎之間，然後向西流，直到注入大海。我們在前往巴黎的途中首先在羅阿納市 (Roanne) 看到了它，直到我們經過奧爾良 (Orléans) 才離開它，奧爾良是前往巴黎的最後一站。它的沿岸也有城鎮和農田；大船在上面航行。它與較小的溪流相連，但全部都稱為盧瓦爾河。它經過許多村莊，有些地方甚至在城鎮中也有不同形狀的奇妙橋樑穿過，關於這一點我稍後會再詳述。另一條河叫塞納河（Seine），流經巴黎市，正如我所提到的，向西一直流到大海。這些是我們看到的最大的河流，但也有很多小河，而且幾乎都是互相流向的；如果不是這樣，那也是造化弄人，我已經說過了。
Most of the goods transported on river
boats are heavy, such as stone, wood, coal, building materials, vegetables,
fruits, and the like. Most of the road [between Marseille and Paris) is flat
and level. We did not see any towering peaks such as we have" except in
the region of Lyon, where there are hills and even mountains. But they outwit
the sharp incline by making the road turn with it, so that one does not feel
the strain. If it is a small mountain they cut the road through it so that the
carriages move along easily. Between Lyon and Paris the country is hilly, but
close to Paris it is all valleys and lowlands, with no mountains at all. The
most difficult [terrain] was between Aix and Toulon, where exhausting hills and
steep rises made the carriage move slowly.
河船上運送的貨物大多很重，例如石頭、木材、煤炭、建築材料、蔬菜、水果等等。馬賽和巴黎之間）的大部分道路都是平坦的。除了里昂地區有丘陵甚至山脈之外，我們沒有看到任何像我們所見的高聳山峰」。但他們通過讓道路隨坡度轉彎來克服急坡，這樣人們就不會感到吃力。如果是一座小山，他們會在山中開闢道路，使馬車可以輕鬆前行。里昂和巴黎之間是丘陵地形，但靠近巴黎的地方都是山谷和低地，完全沒有高山。艾克斯和土倫之間的 [地形] 最為艱難，令人精疲力竭的山丘和陡峭的坡度讓馬車移動緩慢。
The whole way is settled, especially
between Marseille and Lyon, with towns crowded close together, even more so
than between Lyon and Paris, where the land is often empty; yet even there you
are always in sight of towns or villages. The houses are found along- side the
road, either singly or in groups, with no vacant places be- tween. You will not
pass anywhere without seeing a building, a village, a house, or a cluster of
houses, either close by or within view. Even in each vineyard there is a
dwelling place for its atten- dant and his family.
一路上都是居民區，尤其是在馬賽和里昂之間，城鎮緊密地擠在一起，甚至比里昂和巴黎之間還要密集，那裡經常是一片空地；但即使在那裡，您也總能看到城鎮或村落。道路兩旁的房屋或單獨或成群結隊，中間沒有空曠的地方。你經過任何地方，都會看到一棟建築物、一個村莊、一間房子或一組房子，不是就在附近，就是就在眼前。甚至在每個葡萄園中，都有一個供園主及其家人居住的地方。
Everything along the road belongs to the
town. Often the road passes through its midst, opening a way between its
markets and shops. Either within the town or just beyond are all the crafts
nec- essary to the wayfarer, such as carriage and cart makers, or black- smiths
who shoe horses and make tools. If the traveler needs to make repairs, he can
find a place for it close at hand. Also along the way are taverns for
travelers, and many posthouses to rent horses for the carriages and wagons.
Whatever the traveler needs will be found nearby.
道路兩旁的一切都屬於城鎮。道路經常從城鎮中間穿過，在市場和商店之間開闢出一條道路。鎮內或鎮外都有旅行者所需的手藝，如馬車和手推車製造商，或為馬穿鞋和製作工具的黑鐵匠。如果旅行者需要維修，他可以在附近找到地方。沿途也有供旅行者使用的酒館，以及許多出租馬匹的驛站。旅客需要什麼，附近就有什麼。
As for the towns and cities we passed on
our way, the first was Marseille, where we disembarked. It is a large city, one
of the cen- ters of civilization of France. It has no wall on the side facing
the sea, but its port is fortified with cannon on all sides. It has a narrow
entryway with huge beacons to guide [ships] at night. There are many cafés in
the port; they are of the finest and richest decoration. The port forms a deep
inlet next to the town, and lies between it and a small mountain. Its quays are
built like those of Port-Vendres. In the port there are boxes anchored in place
with many large holes. Whoever wishes to enter the port ties a rope to [one of
the boxes] and hauls on it to pull the ship in, because there is no wind inside
the port.
至於我們途中經過的城鎮，第一個是馬賽，我們在那裡下船。這是一座大城，是法國的文明中心之一。它面海的一面沒有城牆，但它的港口四面都設有大炮。它有一個狹窄的入口，有巨大的燈塔在夜晚引導 [船舶]。港口內有許多咖啡館；裝潢都是最優美、最豐富的。港口在城鎮旁邊形成了一個很深的入海口，位於城鎮和一座小山之間。它的碼頭建造得與 Port-Vendres 港口一樣。港口內有許多固定的箱子，上面有許多大洞。想進港的人會把繩子綁在 [其中一個箱子] 上，然後拉著繩子把船拖進去，因為港口裡面沒有風。
It is not a port for corsairs or ships of
war, but rather for ships of trade. We found so many ships loaded with goods
there, we could not find a way between them. They said there were more than a
thousand, for this is a city of commerce. Merchants from every clime come here,
and goods and manufactures from all over France.
這不是一個供海盜或戰船停靠的港口，而是供貿易船停靠的港口。我們發現那裡有許多滿載貨物的船隻，我們找不到它們之間的通道。他們說有一千多艘，因為這是一座商業城市。來自世界各地的商人，以及來自法國各地的貨物和製造業。
Goods that are not French are rare, except
those things they im- port because of their scarcity or absence in their own
country. If goods are brought in and they [already] have them, they make the
tax³s on them excessive, so that the demand for them will not be greater than
for their own. In this way they protect their own crafts, lest they be
abandoned for lack of a market.
非法國的貨品很少見，除了那些他們因為在自己國家稀缺或缺乏而進口的東西。如果有貨物進來，而他們[已經]擁有這些貨物，他們就會對這些貨物徵收過高的稅項，這樣對這些貨物的需求就不會大於對他們自己貨物的需求。這樣，他們就可以保護自己的工藝品，以免因缺乏市場而被拋棄。
In this city are lofty houses and imposing
buildings, exquisite shops with all kinds of goods, and very elegant people.
The shops in the port are next to the quays, and large and small ships come
right up to them; the wall is built of huge rocks with only a roadway
separating it from the shops. The streets are wide, with room on each side for
those on foot; the middle is kept for carriages and carts. Something
exceedingly disgusting is the filth and refuse flowing ev- erywhere down the
middle of the street, urine and even excrement; but they do not seem to mind
it, and it is sold at a price. People charged with the task go about collecting
it in large buckets, drying it for fertilizer.
在這座城市裡，有高聳的房屋和壯觀的建築，有各式各樣商品的精緻商店，還有非常優雅的人們。港口的商店緊鄰碼頭，大小船舶都會駛到碼頭；牆壁由巨大的岩石築成，與商店之間只隔著一條道路。街道很寬，兩邊都有足夠的空間供步行者使用，中間則是供馬車和手推車使用。令人厭惡的是，街道中間隨處流淌著污物和垃圾，尿液甚至是排泄物；但他們似乎並不介意，而且這些東西都是有價出售的。負責這項工作的人會用大桶去收集，然後曬乾作肥料。
All of their streets open onto one another,
with no blind alley- ways. There are wide open places lined with trees, where
people come on days of heat to promenade under their shade. One of the most
famous neighborhoods is known as Borély, a place of trees and fountains where
most of the houses of the notables and people of wealth are located.
他們所有的街道都是相通的，沒有盲道。街道兩旁種滿了樹，在炎熱的日子裡，人們會到樹蔭下散步。最著名的社區之一是 Borély，這裡綠樹成蔭、噴水潺潺，是名流和富豪的居所。
This city is the seat of one of the
provinces of France, and it governs over the surrounding district. In the whole
of France there are eighty-five or eighty-six provinces, each containing a
large city and the smaller towns around. Each province has two governors,one
for the army and the other for the common folk. The governor of the people is
equal to a qā'id al-bilād in our own land, but the rank of governor of the army
is higher. 38 Their seat is the [main] city of the province they govern, and
each of them has deputies under his authority. The province of Marseille and
its district includes Toulon and the city of Aix, which I shall mention later.
這座城市是法國其中一個省的所在地，管轄周圍區域。整個法國有八十五或八十六個省，每個省都包含一個大城市和周圍的小城鎮。每個省有兩位省長，一位是軍隊省長，另一位是平民省長。人民的總督等同於我們自己土地上的 qā'id al-bilād，但軍隊的總督等級較高。38 他們的所在地是他們所管轄省的[主要]城市，每個人都有屬於他的副手。馬賽省及其地區包括土倫（Toulon）和艾克斯城（Aix），我稍後會提到。
The outskirts of [Marseille] are crowded
and bustling with life, with buildings one right after another. You go beyond
it for a dis- tance, yet you still seem to be in the midst of the town. The
people of Marseille wanted to bring water from a river about three days away,
near the city of Avignon, and they paid a great sum of money for this. But the
water still has not come, although they are a great effort, digging deep
channels under the mountains and building enormous aqueducts between them. They
are digging with the help of steam engines that take mountains of dirt out of
the bowels of the earth. 39 They also are hard at work building a new port, for
the old one is silted up with filth and waste from the town, its waters black
and putrid. They want to make an improved one north of the present one, using
the same well-made entryway we mentioned above. 40
馬賽]的郊區人煙稠密、熙來攘往，建築物一座挨著一座。你越過它一段距離，卻似乎仍在城中。馬賽人想從大約三天路程外，靠近阿維尼翁城的河流引水，他們為此付出了一大筆錢。但是水仍然沒有來，儘管他們是下了很大的功夫，在山下挖了很深的渠道，並在渠道之間建造了巨大的引水道。他們用蒸氣發動機從地底挖出堆積如山的泥土。39 他們還在努力建造一個新港口，因為舊港口已被鎮上的穢物和廢物淤塞，海水又黑又臭。他們想在現有港口的北面建造一個改良的港口，使用我們上面提到的那個製作精良的入口。40
After our departure from Marseille we went
on to a city called Aix, which is smaller than Marseille and part of its
district. Here are shops, markets, hotels, and a military garrison." It is
especially re- nowned among the French because of its scholarship in the law.
Whoever in the district of Marseille is convicted of murder will be executed in
this town, because it is here that judgment takes place.
離開馬賽後，我們繼續前往一個叫艾克斯的城市，它比馬賽小，是馬賽區的一部分。這裡有商店、市集、旅館和駐軍"。這座城市在法國人中特別有名，因為它在法律方面的學問。在馬賽區，無論誰被判謀殺罪，都會在這個城鎮被處決，因為審判是在這裡進行的。
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In Aix we saw a huge cross made of wood
standing on one side of the town square. At its top was a smaller bit of wood
made into the likeness of a crucified man, naked except for a cloth cover- ing
his maleness. What a sight it was! We were terrified to see it and thought that
he was a criminal they had hung there, for without a doubt, whoever saw it
[would think it] was a crucified man. I asked about this and they told me that
it was the deity and the crucifix which they worshipped. They claim he is
Jesus, that is to say, a likeness of him crucified. And there is no doubt that
they believe in his divinity just as the Koran tells us, and there is no doubt
about the untruth of their claim and the falsity of their belief. "For
they have no knowledge of it, and only follow conjecture."43 Those are the
words of their mouths, which is [false] like the speech of those who become
infidels just before they die. My God how they lie! This is the cross set up in
their churches to worship and glorify, and which Jesus, may peace be unto him,
will break upon his return, refuting the falsehood of their belief and the
wrongheadedness of the Chris- tian religion.
在艾克斯，我們看到一個巨大的木頭十字架矗立在市鎮廣場的一側。在十字架的頂端，有一小塊木頭被做成一個被釘在十字架上的人的樣子，他全身赤裸，只有一塊布遮住他的男性器官。那是何等的景象！我們看了都很害怕，還以為他是被掛在那裡的罪犯，因為毫無疑問，不管誰看了都會以為他是被釘在十字架上的人。我問起這件事，他們告訴我那是他們崇拜的神和十字架。他們聲稱他是耶穌，也就是耶穌被釘在十字架上的肖像。毫無疑問，他們相信他的神性，就像《古蘭經》告訴我們的一樣，毫無疑問，他們的聲稱是不真實的，他們的信仰是虛假的。「因為他們對此毫無認識，只是依循猜測。」43 那是他們的口中之言，就像那些臨死前變成異教徒的人的言辭一樣，是[虛假的]。我的天啊！他們怎麼說謊呢？這是他們在教會中所豎立的十字架，是他們所崇拜的，是他們所歌頌的；耶穌（愿主福安之）再來的時候，必打破這個十字架，駁斥他們信仰的謬誤，駁斥基督宗教的錯誤。
[A Hadith:] Al-Qastallānī in his commentary
on the Şahih mentions the tradition about breaking the cross as follows: It is
said that its origin is that a group of Jews insulted Jesus and his mother,
peace be unto them, and God called upon the [Jews] and changed them into pigs
and monkeys. Then the Jews decided to kill [Jesus]. God warned him and said he
would raise him to heaven. Then [Jesus] said to his companions, "Which of
you wishes to take on my likeness, be killed and crucified, and so enter the
Garden of Eden?" One of them got up and God cast upon him the likeness [of
Jesus], so that it would be he who was killed and crucified. And then people
said, perhaps this man is a dissembler, and tried to prove it by en- tering the
house of Jesus, but Jesus had already left and his likeness was cast on the
other. So that when the Jews entered, they killed [the dissembler], claiming he
was Jesus. Then they disagreed and some said that he was God and could not be
killed; and others said that a dissembler had been killed and crucified; and
others said that if it was Jesus, then where was his companion; and if it was
his com- panion, then where was Jesus? And some said he was raised to heaven,
and others said his face is the face of Jesus, and his body the body of the
companion. Then the Jews oppressed the companions of Jesus, peace be unto him,
by killing and crucifying and jailing [them], until the matter came before the
Master of Rome. 45 He was told that the Jews were oppressing the companions of
Jesus, because he said he was the Messenger of God, he was giving life to the
dead, he was healing the dumb and the leprous, and working miracles, and that
the Jews had killed him and crucified him. And [the Master of Rome] sent for
the crucified body, which was taken down from the wooden pieces. The pieces of
wood on which he was crucified were brought to the Master of Rome, who began to
worship them. From them they made many crosses and from that day on Christians
have worshipped the cross. The end. The cross of the crucifixion appears there
in different guises, but always in the same form. Sometimes it is large, at
other times it is small. It may be of wood, stone, metal, brass, or gold, or in
a picture. Sometimes the form of the crucified Jesus is on it, sometimes it is
the cross alone, as was mentioned by al-Qasțallānī. Many are sold in the shops.
The figure of Jesus is portrayed in various ways: as a grown man, or a small
boy in the lap or arms of Mary. In the church they pray to them both. If you
ask one of them about this likeness, he will explain to you that it is God, or
His son, or His mother if Mary is there. May [God] preserve them from that, and
may He be raised high above what the sinners say. The proof of our eyes only
increased our insight into their unbelief, the falsity of their Xtreed, and the
stupidity of their reasoning. Thanks be to God who guided us to the true
religion. We ask God, praise be unto Him, to keep us in the true faith until
death. Amen. With the help of our faithful prophet, may prayers and the purest
peace be upon him un- til the Day of Judgment.
[聖訓：]阿爾-卡斯塔拉尼在他對《薩希》的注釋中提到了關於打破十字架的傳統如下： 據說它的起源是一群猶太人侮辱耶穌和他的母親（願主福安之），於是真主召喚 [猶太人] 並將他們變成豬和猴子。然後，猶太人決定殺死
[耶穌]。上帝警告他，並說他會把他升上天堂。然後，[耶穌] 對他的同伴說：「你們誰願意變成我的樣子，被殺害，釘在十字架上，然後進入伊甸園？其中一個人站起來，神就把[耶穌]的形像投在他身上，這樣，被殺害和釘十字架的就是他了。然後人們說，也許這個人是個騙子，就想進耶穌的家來證明，但耶穌已經走了，他的肖像就投在另一個人身上。猶太人進去的時候，就殺了這個人，說他是耶穌。然後，他們各說各的話，有的說他是神，不能殺；有的說，一個詆毀耶穌的人被殺了，釘在十字架上；有的說，如果他是耶穌，那麼他的同伴在哪裡；如果他是他的同伴，那麼耶穌在哪裡？又有人說他升天了，又有人說他的臉就是耶穌的臉，他的身體就是同伴的身體。猶太人就欺壓耶穌的同伴，願他平安，把他們殺害、釘十字架、關在監獄裡，直到這件事到了羅馬的主面前。45 有人告訴他，猶太人欺壓耶穌的同伴，因為他說他是真主的使者，他使死人復活，他醫治啞子和長痳瘋的人，並行神蹟，而猶太人殺了他，把他釘在十字架上。羅馬的主]派人把釘在十字架上的屍體從木塊上取下來。他被釘在十字架上的木塊被帶到羅馬教主那裡，教主開始敬拜這些木塊。他們用這些木片做了許多十字架，從那一天起，基督徒開始崇拜十字架。結束。被釘十字架的十字架以不同的姿態出現在那裡，但總是以相同的形式出現。有時它很大，有時它很小。它可能是木頭、石頭、金屬、黃銅或黃金製成的，也可能是一幅圖畫。有時上面有被釘十字架的耶穌的形像，有時只有十字架，就像 al-Qasțallānī 所提到的。商店裡有許多出售。耶穌的形象有各種不同的描繪方式：成年男子，或是瑪利亞膝上或懷中的小男孩。在教堂裡，他們同時向兩者祈禱。如果你問他們中的一個人關於這個肖像的問題，他會向你解釋這是上帝，或者是他的兒子，或者是他的母親（如果瑪利亞在那裡）。願[真主]保守他們不致如此，願祂高過罪人所說的。我們眼睛的證明，只是增加了我們對他們的不信、他們的Xtreed的虛假、和他們的推理的愚昧的洞察力。感謝真主，是他引導我們歸向真正的宗教。讚美主，我們祈求祂保守我們在真信仰中，直到死亡。阿門。在我們忠誠的先知的幫助下，願祈禱和最純潔的平安賜予他，直到審判日。
We left [Marseille], the place of our first
night's rest, for Avi- gnon, a large city surrounded by a wall and gates
bearing the marks of antiquity. It was like other places with respect to its
markets and garrison and so on. They say that thirty-three thousand souls live
there. Alongside it flows the river Rhône. Enormous bridges span it at that
place and there are many large and small boats there. Vast amounts of wood,
boards, firewood, and charcoal are transported on the river. It is one of the
centers of civilization in their land. The surrounding countryside is flat,
fertile, and cultivated. Along the whole way we did not see any place greener
than this. Nearby is another river called the Durance, spanned by a wooden
bridge in which we counted about fifty arches.
我們離開了第一晚休息的地方 [馬賽]，前往 Avi- gnon，那是一座大城，周圍有城牆和帶有古代烙印的城門。就市場和駐軍而言，它和其他地方一樣。據說有三萬三千人住在那裡。它旁邊流淌著羅讷河。巨大的橋梁橫跨河上，那裡有許多大小船只。大量的木材、木板、木柴和木炭在河上運送。這是他們土地上的文明中心之一。周圍的農村地勢平坦、肥沃、耕作茂盛。一路上，我們沒有看到比這裡更綠的地方。附近有另一條河，叫做杜勒河 (Durance)，河上有一座木橋，我們數了數大約有 50 個拱門。
After that we passed many towns, one called
[?], and another Sorgues. The river Ouvèze flows nearby, crossed by a small
bridge. Then comes Orange, an old town with an arched gate more than a thousand
years old, according to the date upon it." After that come Mornas,
Lapalud, Montélimar, then Loriol, followed by the river Drôme, which is crossed
by a small bridge where it meets the Rhône; then a town called La Paillasse.
All these are small towns which look alike and are close together. We spent the
second night in the town of Valence, a large place that bore the signs of
civiliza- tion. It has a citadel surrounded by an ancient wall with cannons in
it. This town is skilled in the science of artillery, and they come here from
other parts to study it. 48
之後，我們經過了許多小鎮，一個叫 [?] ，另一個叫 Sorgues。Ouvèze 河在附近流過，有一座小橋橫跨。接下來是 Orange，這是一座古老的城鎮，根據拱門上的日期顯示，拱門已有一千多年的歷史。接下來是莫納斯
(Mornas)、拉帕魯德 (Lapalud)、蒙特利馬 (Montélimar)，然後是洛里奧爾
(Loriol)，接著是德羅姆河 (Drôme)，在河水與羅納河 (Rhône) 交匯的地方，有一座小橋橫跨河上；然後是一個叫拉派拉斯 (La Paillasse) 的小鎮。這些都是看起來很像的小鎮，而且相距很近。我們在瓦倫斯鎮（Valence）渡過了第二個晚上，這個地方很大，有文明的跡象。它有一座城堡，被古老的城牆包圍，城牆上有大炮。這個鎮子精通火炮科學，他們從其他地方來到這裡研究火炮。48
The night of our stay, there was a heavy
snowfall which covered the earth, the rooftops, and the branches of the trees
with whiteness. Carts which passed the night on the road or in the open fields
had a covering of snow to the depth of a finger or more. This was the first
time we saw snow there, and we were to see it again in even greater quantity.
我們停留的當晚，下了一場大雪，大地、屋頂和樹枝都被白雪覆蓋。在路上或空地上過夜的車，上面覆蓋了一指或更深的雪。這是我們第一次在那裡看見雪，而我們將再看到更多的雪。
After Valence there is a small river, the
Isère, which has a new bridge over it. Whoever crosses over it must pay a set
sum at a house to one side. No one passes over without paying, until they
collect in full what was spent on [building] it. Then we passed a town called
Tain on the banks of the Rhône; then another called St.-Vallier; then another
called the village of Roussillon; then Vienne, which is ancient and known for
its cathedral of St. Maurice. Workshops for making wool+9 are found in this
village and it is famous for it. The whole day's journey was along the banks of
the Rhône, and we spent the third night in the city of Lyon. 50
過了 Valence 之後，有一條小河
Isère 河，河上有一座新橋。無論何人過河，都必須在一邊的房子繳付一定的費用。沒有人可以不付錢就通過，直到他們把[建橋]所花的錢收齊為止。之後，我們經過了羅讷河畔一個叫泰恩 (Tain) 的小鎮；接著是另一個叫聖瓦利埃 (St.-Vallier)的小鎮；然後是另一個叫魯西永 (Roussillon) 的村莊；然後是維埃納 (Vienne)，它很古老，以聖莫里斯大教堂 (cathedral of St. Maurice) 而聞名。在這個村子裡有製作羊毛+9的作坊，而且很有名。一整天的行程都是沿著羅納河岸，第三晚我們在里昂市過夜。50
NOTES：
1. Travel in Morocco was
described by foreigners as dangerous and ex- hausting. Those journeying under
the auspices of the Sultan received the mūna, or provisioning by local
officials; however, the mina was not always forthcoming, and voyagers often had
to carry their own food, buy it, or forage for it. Hay, Journal, p. 17.
Carrying money was also risky because of the prevalence of brigands. Laroui,
Origines, p. 36. The dirham and the riyal (from the Spanish réal) were basic
units of Moroccan coinage. See Ch. 3 note 21, below.
2. In Arabic, al-uwkanța
(vocalized in aş-Şaffar's text), from the Italian locanda, a tavern with rooms
for lodging. At-Tahtāwī describes it as a "res- taurant... sometimes
including places to sleep." Takhlis, p. 114; L'or, p. 148. Aş-Şaffär says
it is a place for sleeping, with food bought outside, which was closer to
Moroccan practice. James Grey Jackson described an inn (funduq) of Fes as
follows: "Three stories high, [with] 50 to 100 apartments. As the mode of
travelling is to carry bedding with one, they do not provide beds in these
inns, but leave you to make use of what you have got, providing only a mat; and
if you want any refreshment you cannot order a meal, but must purchase it at a
cook's shop, or procure it at the butcher's." An Account of the Empire of
Marocco and the District of Suse (Philadelphia, 1810), p. 123. The funduq was
mainly for country folk; peo- ple of aş-Şaffar's class usually stayed in
private homes when visiting another city. The Spanish posada (Arabic būşāda)
was a place where travelers spent the night and changed horses.
3. Santir. Dozy 1:694.
4. Kanün, a charcoal
brazier, placed in the center of the room to heat it in winter; also a grill
for cooking meat. Harrell, p. 60; L. Brunot, Textes arabes de Rabat, 2 vols.
(Rabat, 1952), 2, glossary, p. 703.
5. Qashina, from the
Spanish cocina, "kitchen." Dozy 2:473.
6. Karrūşa, from the Spanish
carroza. A four-wheeled cart drawn by a horse. Dozy 2:456. Nineteenth-century
travelers to Morocco remarked on the absence of wheeled vehicles. J. H. D. Hay
saw "on the road-side a wretched wheeled vehicle, ruder even in
construction and form than a very ancient Egyptian cart which I saw shortly
after its discovery on the banks of the Nile. This is the only wheeled carriage
I have met with in all Mo- rocco." Western Barbary: Its Wild Tribes and
Savage Animals (London, 1861),
pp. 121-22.
7. Arabic dhira,
literally "forearm," the distance between the elbow and the tip of
the middle finger, equal to about half a meter.
8. Karrița, from the
Spanish carreta. A small two-wheeled cart. Dozy 2:453; al-Ghassäni, Iftikāk, p.
39.
9. Bridges were rare in
Morocco in the 18405, but not entirely un- known. On his trip to Marrakesh in
1846, J. H. D. Hay passed two well- constructed bridges, a five-arched one
reportedly built by a Spanish mason in the Shawiya region, and another closer
to Marrakesh that had twenty- five arches. But most rivers and streams had to
be forded or crossed by boat. Moving his small party across the Wad Sebou near
Mehdiya took an entire day: "The embarkation immediately commenced of both
horses and baggage in one wretched boat. The river is a wide and rapid stream,
and the boat has only two oars, so that each passage has occupied upward of two
hours; and though we commenced at break of day, we had not finished until
sunset." Hay, Journal, p. 20.
10. From a Greek word
meaning "hundredweight" (cf. Latin centena- rium). In Morocco it was
equal to 100 ratls, or about so kilograms. The weight of a rail changed from
one region to another, and could vary ac- cording to the item being weighed;
usually it meant a weight of about 500 grams. Laroui, Origines, pp. 49-50; Dozy
2:413.
11. In Arabic, nā'ūra,
literally "noria" or "waterwheel." Since wheeled transport
was rare, there was no commonly used Arabic word for cart wheel; the local word
for "wheel" was often taken from the word for wa- terwheel. G. S. Colin,
"La noria marocaine et les machines hydrauliques dans le monde
arabe," Hesp. 14 (1932): 22-49; Thomas Glick, Islamic and Christian Spain
in the Early Middle Ages (Princeton, 1979). pp. 236-39.
12. The word as-Saffär
uses here is maks. In Morocco, the maks was a special duty imposed by the
Sultan, separate from the Koranic taxes on land and income. Usually it was a
"gate tax," levied on goods en- tering and leaving town, and thus
aş-Şaffar associates it with the French octroi. The Moroccan maks, like the
octroi, was greatly resented, especially by urban dwellers; often it was the
spark that ignited popular uprisings. Al-Manūni, Mazahir 1:297-301; SEI, s.v.
"Maks"; E. Michaux-Bellaire,
94 "L'organisation
des finances au Maroc," AM 11 (1907): 181, 189, 206-7, 213-16.
13. Mil, used also in
Arabic. Ibn Khaldūn says it equals 4,000 cubits, about two kilometers, or 1%
English miles. Muqaddimah 1:96 and note 19.
14. A sign of the capable
ruler was security on the roads. Muqaddimah 2:3. Travelers often had to depend
on local authorities to provide security. Hay reported that the Moroccan
countryside "is said to be infested with robbers. The Sultan has obliged
two or three tribes to pitch their tents near the road so as to guard
travellers from them." Journal, p. 52. But when the Sultan traveled, the
movement became a demonstration of royal power: see J. Dakhlia, "Dans la
mouvance du Prince: La symbolique du pouvoir inti- nérant au Maghreb,"
Annales: Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations 43. 3 (May-
June 1988): 735-60. 15.
Istabl, from the Latin stabulum (Spanish establo). Dozy 1:26; EI 2,
s.v."Iştabl."
16. The cultic center of
Islam, located in the great mosque at Mecca, housing the sacred Black Stone.
SEI, s.v. "Ka'ba."
17. Ibn 'Umar and Ibn
'Abbās were figures in early Islam. 'Abd Allah b. 'Umar (d. 693) was the eldest
son of the Caliph 'Umar and one of the Prophet's closest companions; his
contemporary, 'Abd Allah b. al-'Abbās (d. 687), was the cousin of the Prophet
and famous for his sweeping knowledge of law and tradition. SEI, s.vv. "
"Abd Allah b. al-Abbās" and ""Abd Allah b. 'Umar b.
al-Khattab."
18. Nawwala: a
hive-shaped dwelling made out of sticks and thatch, seen especially in the
countryside in northern Morocco.
19. Between Tangier and
Rabat, Hay observed that the countryside was "almost uninhabited,"
but further south he found that "the country was better cultivated than
any we had yet seen, the barley and wheat. ing splendid." Journal, p. 54;
see also Laroui, Origines, pp. 34-38. look-
20. Forests were
endangered in Morocco because of overgrazing and overuse: "The goats do
their best to devour the young shoots, while the people of the country have the
reprehensible custom of cutting down the trunks to make charcoal, and the
thorny branches to fence in their fields." Aubin, Morocco, p. 12.
21. Aş-Şaffar refers to
his country as al-Maghrib, "Morocco"-not meaning "the Greater
Maghrib" (which included Algeria and Tunisia), be- cause elsewhere he
refers to Algeria as al-Jazā ir and Tunisia as Ifriqiya. On the Moroccan sense
of national identity in the nineteenth century, see La- roui, Origines, pp.
57-59.
22. In Arabic, tût düd
al-harir, the mulberry. The reference to male and female is not clear. Some
mulberries bear no fruit; perhaps this is what he meant by the "male"
of the species. Encyclopaedia Britannica, 1990 ed., s. v. "Mulberry."
23. Oranges were
plentiful in Morocco, too-so much so that Hay re-
marked that near Rabat
oranges "were sometimes sold on the trees at the
rate of about a shilling
per thousand." Journal, p. 43. Jackson noted that the
vicinity of "Tetuan
produces the most delicious oranges in the world; also figs, grapes, melons,
apricots, plums, strawberries, apples, pears, pome- granates, citrons, lemons,
limes." Account, p. II. 24. These are the small Îles d'Hyères, also known
as the Îles d'Or,which face the port of Toulon.
25. Aş-Şaffär uses the
Turkish word beylik, translated here as "state." Makhzan, meaning
"government," was specific to Morocco. Beylik may have been suggested
by interpreters who had spent time in Algeria; it was used also to denote the
government 'Abd al-Qadir had set up in Oran. Azan, L'emir Abd el Kader, p. 133.
26. Arabic kharaj, the
tax on land. Originally imposed on non-Mus- lims, it was later paid also by
Muslims. According to Maliki law, the kharaj was not a tax but "rent"
paid for use of the land, which was the property of the community. Established
in Morocco around the thirteenth century, it was paid thereafter with some
regularity, often under the name of na iba. E. Michaux-Bellaire, "Le droit
de propriété au Maroc," RMM 7 (1909): 365-78; and, by the same author,
"L'impôt de la naïba et la loi musulmane au Maroc," RMM 11 (1910):
396-404.
27. Shari'a, the revealed
law of Islam. Aş-Şaffär, like at-Tahțāwī, uses the term to denote the secular
French legal code. Takhlis, p. 94; L'or, p. 133. He also uses the word qünün,
meaning specific "rules," rather than a legal "code."
Islamic legists made a distinction between the two: sharia is the immutable law
of God, while qanün refers to regulations made by men to fit changing needs.
The two are not incompatible, although derived from different sources. A.
Hourani, "Aspects of Islamic Culture: Introduction," in Naff and
Owen, Studies, pp. 266-67.
28. In France, aş-Şaffär
did not find commons where people could cut fodder or graze their animals, as
was the practice in rural Morocco.
29. The Arabic is 'ushr,
the "tenth part" of annual income, levied on all Muslims according to
Koranic law. In Morocco, where revenue was mea- sured chiefly in flocks and
harvests, the 'ushr was equal to one-tenth of the annual grain harvest. SEI, s.
v. " "Ushr."
30. The Rhône actually
flows south from Lyon.
31. The High Atlas
Mountains in the south of Morocco have a covering of snow throughout the year;
Jabal Tubkal (4,165 m) is the highest peak in North Africa. J. Martin et al.,
Géographie du Maroc (Paris, 1967), pp. 130-42.
32. Literally
"houses of winesellers."
33. Arabic hadira, a word
used by medieval geographers to denote a large and populous urban center, as
opposed to the badiya, the underpopu- lated rural areas. Muqaddimah 1:1xxx;
Dozy 1:299.
34. Qurşal, from the
Italian corsale, a corsair or privateer. Since priva- teering was no longer
practiced in the Mediterranean, the word here means simply a type of warship.
It is sometimes written as qurşan. Brunot, La mer, PP-337-44-
35. Arabic 'ushr (see
note 29) could also mean an export duty, collected as goods were leaving a
town. In 1845, a tax levied in Fes on all goods destined for Algeria was called
the 'ushr funduq an-najjärin, "the duty of the carpenters' inn," from
the place where it was collected. See E. Michaux- Bellaire, "Les impôts
marocains," AM 1 (1904): 65.
36. The Château Borély,
built by a wealthy merchant of Marseille in the late eighteenth century,
surrounded by an expansive park. At-Tahțāwī stayed there before his departure
for Paris in 1831. L'or, p. 94 note 70.
37. Iyala, an Arabic word
that became an Ottoman administrative term (eyalet, or "province")
and was adopted in Morocco during the Sa'adian period. Ibn Zaydän, 'Izz, 1,
glossary, p. 399. At the end of the eighteenth century, the huge provinces of
pre-Revolutionary France were broken up and replaced by 86 départements,
translated here as "province" to stay close to the Arabic original.
38. The "governor of the people"
was the préfet, the highest civil official of the département. The
"governor of the army" was a general in charge of a local garrison,
serving under orders from the Ministry of War. Grande en- cyclopédie Larousse,
1882 ed., s.v. "Département."
39. An aqueduct from the river Durance to
Marseille, a distance of 83 kilometers, was begun in 1839 and completed in
1847. More than 21 kilo- meters of its length was underground. L'Illustration,
6 September 1845.
40. The conquest of Algeria stimulated
commercial activity in Mar- seille, creating the need for a larger port; the
depth of the old port was too shallow to allow ships of heavy tonnage to enter.
In 1844, just before aş-Şaffar's visit, a law was passed authorizing the
construction of a new dock just north of the old quays. Guide Michelin:
Provence, 1976 ed.,P. 95.
41. Qishla, a Turkish word meaning
"barracks." Dozy 2:351.
42. The court of appeal for the département
of Marseille had its seat in Aix. Guide Michelin: Provence, 1976 ed., p. 46.
43. Koran 4:157.
44. An Egyptian authority on Hadith who
died in 923/1517. Muslim belief is that Jesus, revered as a prophet, was not
crucified, but another "who bore his likeness" died in his place,
thus disassociating Jesus from the idolatrous symbol of the cross. The passage
quoted by aş-Şaffar comes from al-Qastallānī's commentary on the Sahih of
al-Bukhari, entitled Irshad
as-sari fi sharh al-Bukhari. SEI, s.vv.
" "Isä" and "al-Kastallāni."
45. Sahib ar-Rüm, or Pontius Pilate.
46. The Arc de Triomphe of Orange was built
by Caesar in 49 B.C. to celebrate his victories over the Gauls, Guide Michelin:
Provence, 1976 ed., p.112.
47. Qaşba; in Morocco, a walled section of
the imperial town housing troops belonging to the Sultan. 48. The Ecole
d'Artillerie, where the cadet Napoleon Bonaparte perfected his skills in
gunnery in 1785. Guide Michelin: Vallée du Rhône, 1985
ed., p. 156.
49. Mluf, a fine wool cloth used for outer
clothing, originally from the Italian city of Amalfi. Harrell, p. 81; Dozy
2:61; IB 2:44 note 124; Ibn Zay- dān, Izz, 1, glossary, p. 418.
50. The text gives precise directions on
pronunciation: "With a hamza at the beginning, a sukūn on the lam, and a
long yā."
註解：
1. 外國人形容摩洛哥的旅行既危險又辛苦。在蘇丹的支持下旅行的人會獲得當地官員提供的 mūna，或糧食；然而，mina 並非總是有的，旅行者通常必須自己攜帶、購買或覓食。Hay, Journal, p. 17。由於強盜猖獗，攜帶金錢也有風險。Laroui,
Origines, p. 36。迪拉姆和里亞爾 (源自西班牙文 réal)是摩洛哥硬幣的基本單位。請參閱下文第 3 章註 21。
2. 在阿拉伯語中，al-uwkanța (在 aş-Şaffar 的文字中發聲)，源自義大利語
locanda，有住宿房間的酒館。At-Tahtāwī 將其描述為 「酒館......有時包括睡覺的地方」。Takhlis，第 114 頁；L'or，第 148 頁。Aş-Şaffär 說它是供人睡覺的地方，食物在外面買，這更接近摩洛哥的做法。James Grey
Jackson 對費斯的旅館 (funduq) 有如下描述： 「三層樓高，[有] 50 到 100 間公寓。由於人們的旅行方式是隨身攜帶寢具，因此這些旅館不提供床鋪，而是讓您利用現有的東西，只提供一張墊子；如果您想要任何點心，您不能點餐，而必須到廚師店購買，或到屠夫店購買。An Account of the Empire of Marocco and the District of Suse（費城，1810 年），第 123 頁。FUNDUQ 主要是為鄉下人而設；aş-Şaffar 階級的人到另一個城市時，通常會住在私人家中。西班牙語的 posada（阿拉伯語 būşāda）是旅人過夜和換馬的地方。
3. 桑提爾。Dozy 1:694.
4. Kanün，木炭火爐，放在房間中央，冬天用來取暖；也是煮肉的烤架。Harrell, p. 60; L. Brunot, Textes arabes de Rabat, 2 vols. (Rabat,
1952), 2, glossary, p. 703.
5. Qashina，源自西班牙文
cocina，即「廚房」。Dozy 2:473.
6. Karrūşa，源自西班牙文
carroza。馬拉的四輪車。Dozy 2:456. 十九世紀前往摩洛哥的旅行者曾評論過當地沒有輪車。J. H. D. Hay 在路邊看到「一輛可憐的輪車，其結構和形狀甚至比我在尼羅河河岸發現後不久看到的一輛非常古老的埃及手推車更粗糙。這是我在整個摩洛哥唯一見過的有輪車。Western Barbary: Its Wild Tribes and Savage Animals (London, 1861)、
pp. 121-22.
7. 阿拉伯文 dhira，字面意思是「前臂」，指肘與中指尖之間的距離，約等於半公尺。
8. Karrița，源自西班牙文
carreta。小型雙輪車。Dozy 2:453; al-Ghassäni, Iftikāk, p. 39。
9. 18405 年，橋樑在摩洛哥很少見，但並非完全不為人所知。J. H. D. Hay 在 1846 年前往 Marrakesh 時，經過兩座建造精良的橋梁，一座據說是由西班牙石匠在 Shawiya 地區建造的五拱橋，另一座則離 Marrakesh 較近，有 25 個拱門。但大多數的河流和溪澗都需要撐橋或乘船渡過。在 Mehdiya 附近的 Wad Sebou 河上，他的小隊花了一整天的時間：
「馬匹和行李馬上就裝上了一條破船。這條河是一條又寬又急的小河，船上只有兩支槳，所以每次經過都要花上兩個多小時；雖然我們是在破晓時分開始的，但直到日落時分才完成"。Hay, Journal, p. 20。
10. 來自希臘文，意思是「一百塊」（參考拉丁文
centena-rium）。在摩洛哥，它等於 100 ratls，或大約這麼公斤。鐵軌的重量因地而異，也會依據稱重的物品而改變；通常是指約 500 克的重量。Laroui, Origines, pp.
11. 阿拉伯文中的 nā'ūra，字面意思是「noria」或「水車」。由於輪式運輸非常罕見，所以阿拉伯文中沒有常用的車輪字；當地的「輪」字通常取自「wa- terwheel」。G. S. Colin, 「La noria marocaine et les machines hydrauliques dans le monde arabe,」 Hesp： 22-49; Thomas Glick, Islamic and
Christian Spain in the Early Middle Ages (Princeton, 1979). pp.
12. as-Saffär 在此使用的字是 maks。在摩洛哥，maks 是蘇丹徵收的一種特殊稅項，與《古蘭經》中的土地稅和收入稅不同。通常這是一種「門稅」，對進出城鎮的貨物徵收，因此 aş-Şaffar 將其與法國的 octroi 聯繫起來。摩洛哥的 maks 和 octroi 一樣，都引起了很大的反感，尤其是城市居民；它經常是引發民眾起義的導火線。Al-Manūni, Mazahir 1:297-301; SEI, s.v. 「Maks」; E. Michaux-Bellaire、
94 「L'organisation des
finances au Maroc,」 AM 11 (1907)： 181, 189, 206-7, 213-16.
13. Mil，也用於阿拉伯文。Ibn
Khaldūn 說它等於 4,000 cubits，約兩公里，或 1%英哩。Muqaddimah 1:96 及註 19。
14. 能幹的統治者的標誌是道路安全。Muqaddimah
2:3。旅行者通常必須仰賴當地政府提供安全保障。Hay 報導摩洛哥鄉間「據說盜賊橫行」。蘇丹已強迫兩三個部落在道路附近搭起帳篷，以保護旅客不受盜賊侵襲"。日記》，第 52 頁。但當蘇丹旅行時，這項運動就變成了王權的展示：請參閱 J. Dakhlia, "Dans la mouvance du Prince： La symbolique du pouvoir inti-nérant au
Maghreb," Annales： Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations 43. 3
(May-
1988年6月）： 735-60. 15. Istabl，源自拉丁文 stabulum（西班牙文 establo）。Dozy 1:26；EI 2，s.v. 「Iştabl」。
16. 伊斯蘭教的崇拜中心，位於麥加的大清真寺，內有神聖的黑石。SEI，s.v. 「Ka'ba」。
17. 伊本-歐麥爾和伊本-阿巴斯是早期伊斯蘭教的代表人物。阿卜杜拉-歐麥爾（卒於 693 年）是哈里發-歐麥爾的長子，也是先知最親密的同伴之一；他的同代人阿卜杜拉-阿巴斯（卒於 687 年）是先知的表弟，以精通法律和傳統而聞名。SEI, s.vv. 「」Abd Allah b. al-Abbās「 and 」「Abd Allah b. 'Umar b. al-Khattab.」 18.
18. Nawwala：用木棒和茅草做成的蜂巢狀住所，特別見於摩洛哥北部的鄉間。
19. 在丹吉爾與拉巴特之間，海依觀察到鄉間「幾乎沒有人居住」，但再往南，他發現「鄉間的耕作比我們見過的任何地方都要好，大麥與小麥都很肥美」。Journal, p. 54; see also Laroui, Origines, pp.
20. 由於過度放牧和過度使用，摩洛哥的森林瀕臨滅絕： 「山羊盡其所能吞食幼芽，而國民有個應受譴責的習俗，就是砍伐樹幹來製作木炭，砍下帶刺的樹枝來圍欄田地」。Aubin, Morocco, p. 12。
21. 21. Aş-Şaffar將他的國家稱為al-Maghrib，「摩洛哥」，而非指「大馬格里布」（包括阿爾及利亞和突尼西亞），因為他在其他地方將阿爾及利亞稱為al-Jazā ir，將突尼西亞稱為Ifriqiya。關於十九世紀摩洛哥的民族認同感，請參閱 La- roui, Origines, pp.
22. 在阿拉伯語中，tût düd al-harir，即桑葚。對於男性與女性的提法並不清楚。有些桑葚不結果，也許這就是他所指的「雄性」物種。Encyclopaedia Britannica, 1990 ed., s. v. 「Mulberry」.
23. 摩洛哥的橘子也很豐富，以至於 Hay
re.
在拉巴特附近，橘子 「有時在樹上出售，價格約為每千人一先令」。
「。日記》，第 43 頁。Jackson 指出
Tetuan 附近出產世界上最美味的橘子；還有無花果、葡萄、甜瓜、杏、李子、草莓、蘋果、梨、柑橘、檸檬、青檸。Account, p. II. 這些是面向土倫港的小海爾島 (也稱為金之島)。
25. Aş-Şaffär使用土耳其語beylik，在此譯為 「國家」。Makhzan 的意思是 「政府」，是摩洛哥特有的。Beylik 可能是在阿爾及利亞待過的口譯員提出的；它也被用來表示 'Abd al-Qadir 在奧蘭成立的政府。Azan, L'emir
Abd el Kader, p. 133。
26. 阿拉伯語 kharaj，土地稅。最初是向非穆斯林徵收的，後來穆斯林也要繳納。根據馬利基法律，kharaj 並非稅項，而是使用土地的「租金」，土地是社群的財產。Kharaj 約於 13 世紀在摩洛哥確立，之後定期繳納，通常以 na iba 的名義繳納。E. Michaux-Bellaire, 「Le droit de propriété au Maroc,」 RMM 7
(1909)： 365-78; and, by the same author, 「L'impôt de
la naïba et la loi musulmane au Maroc,」 RMM 11 (1910)： 396-404.
27. Shari'a，伊斯蘭教的啟示法。與
at-Tahțāwī 一樣，Aş-Şaffär 也使用該詞表示世俗的法國法典。Takhlis，第 94 頁；L'or，第 133 頁。他也使用 qünün 一詞，意指特定的「規則」，而非法律「法典」。伊斯蘭法律學家將兩者區分：sharia 是真主永恆不變的法律，而 qanün 則是指人為了適應不斷變化的需求而制定的規範。儘管源自不同的來源，但兩者並非互不相容。A. Hourani, "Aspects of Islamic Culture： 導言》，收錄於 Naff 與 Owen 的《研究》，第
266-67 頁。
28. 在法國，aş-Şaffär 找不到人們可以割草或放牧的公地，就像摩洛哥農村的做法一樣。
29. 阿拉伯語是'ushr，年收入的 「十分之一」，根據古蘭經法律向所有穆斯林徵收。在摩洛哥，收入主要來自羊群和收成，「ushr 」等於每年穀物收成的十分之一。SEI，s. v. 「 」Ushr"。
30. 羅讷河實際上從里昂往南流。
31. 摩洛哥南部的高阿特拉斯山 (High
Atlas Mountains) 全年積雪；Jabal Tubkal (4,165 公尺) 是北非最高峰。J. Martin et al., Géographie du Maroc (Paris, 1967), pp.
32. 字面意思為「酒商的房子」。
33. 阿拉伯文 hadira，中世紀地理學家用來表示人口眾多的大型城市中心，與人口不足的農村地區 badiya 相反。Muqaddimah 1:1xxx; Dozy 1:299。
34. Qurşal，來自義大利語
corsale，指海盜或私掠者。由於地中海已不再有私掠活動，因此此詞在此僅表示一種軍艦。有時也會寫成 qurşan。Brunot, La mer, PP-337-44- 36.
35. 阿拉伯文 'ushr(見註 29) 也可以指出口稅，在貨物離開城鎮時徵收。1845 年，費斯對所有運往阿爾及利亞的貨物徵收的稅項被稱為 'ushr funduq an-najjärin，「木匠旅店的稅」，源自徵收的地點。見
E. Michaux- Bellaire, 「Les impôts marocains,」 AM 1 (1904)： 65.
36. Château Borély，由馬賽的一位富商於十八世紀末建造，周圍是廣闊的公園。At-Tahțāwī 在 1831 年前往巴黎之前曾在此下榻。L'or，第 94 頁註 70。
37. Iyala 是阿拉伯文，後來成為鄂圖曼的行政用語 (eyalet，或「省」)，並在薩達王朝時期被摩洛哥採用。Ibn Zaydän, 'Izz, 1, 詞彙表，第 399 頁。十八世紀末，法國大革命前的龐大省份被分割，取而代之的是 86 個省，為了貼近阿拉伯語原文，這裡譯為「省」。
38. 「人民总督 」是省长，是省的最高文官。而 「軍隊總督 」則是負責當地駐軍的將領，根據軍部的命令服務。Grande en- cyclopédie Larousse, 1882 ed., s.v. 「Département」.
39. 1839 年開始興建杜勒河至馬賽的引水道，全長 83 公里，1847 年完工。其中超過 21 公里的長度是在地下。L'Illustration, 1845 年 9 月 6 日。
40. 征服阿爾及利亞刺激了馬塞爾的商業活動，需要一個更大的港口；舊港口的深度太淺，無法讓重噸位的船隻進入。1844 年，就在 aş-Şaffar 訪問之前，通過了一項法律，授權在舊碼頭北面建造一個新碼頭。米其林指南：
普羅旺斯，1976 年版，P. 95.
41. Qishla，土耳其語，意為「軍營」。Dozy
2:351.
42. 馬賽省的上訴法院設於艾克斯。Guide
Michelin： 普羅旺斯，1976 年版，第 46 頁。
43. 古蘭經》4:157。
44. 埃及聖經權威，卒於 923/1517 年。回教信仰認為，耶穌被尊為先知，卻沒有被釘在十字架上，而是由另一位「與他相似的人」代替他而死，因此耶穌與十字架這個偶像崇拜的象徵無關。aş-Şaffar 引用的这段话来自 al-Qastallānī 对《布哈里圣训集》的注释，题为 "Irshad
as-sari fi sharh al-Bukhari。SEI, s.vv. 「 」Isä「 and 」al-Kastallāni"。
45. Sahib ar-Rüm，或 Pontius Pilate。
46. 奧蘭治的凱旋門是凱撒在公元前 49 年為了慶祝他對高爾人的勝利而建造的，Guide Michelin： 普羅旺斯，1976 年版，第 112 頁。
47. Qaşba（卡斯巴）；在摩洛哥，皇城的圍牆部分，駐有屬於蘇丹的部隊。48. 炮兵學校 (Ecole d'Artillerie)，1785 年拿破崙-波拿巴 (Napoleon
Bonaparte) 的軍校學生在此學習炮術。米其林指南： 米其林指南：羅讷河谷》，1985 年版，第 156 頁。
版，第 156 頁。
49. Mluf 是一種用於外衣的細羊毛布料，原產於義大利的 Amalfi 市。Harrell, p. 81; Dozy 2:61; IB 2:44 note
124; Ibn Zay- dān, Izz, 1, 詞彙表, p. 418。
50. 文中提供了精確的發音指示： 「開頭用 hamza，在 lam 上用 sukūn，然後用長 yā。
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