4、THEIR FOOD AND CUSTOMS AT THE TABLE 4、餐桌上的食物和習俗

 

4、THEIR FOOD AND CUSTOMS AT THE TABLE

4、餐桌上的食物和習俗

Concerning their habits in regard to dining, and a description of the kinds of food found there.'

椅子

關於他們用餐的習慣，以及在那裡發現的食物種類的描述。

 

You should know that among the customs of these people is that they sit only on chairs, and they know nothing about sitting directly on the floor. During our stay in their country, not once did we see one of them sitting on the ground.

您應該知道，這些人的習慣之一是他們只坐在椅子上，他們不知道要坐在地上。
我們在他們的國家逗留期間，一次也沒有看到他們有人坐在地上。

 

Another of their customs is that they do not touch food with their hands, nor do they gather around a single platter. At mealtimes the servants make ready a wooden table standing on [tall] legs. These legs can be opened out or folded in; if they are opened out, then the whole table is made larger by adding a board in the middle; but if [the company] is small, the [original] table is sufficient. That is to say, they can make the size of the table match the number of diners: four, ten, or whatever. After that they cover it entirely with a spotless white cloth and put at each place a small empty dish, setting on it a little folded white towel for the knees. There is also a piece of bread, a silver spoon, a small knife, and a small fork with three teeth, also made of silver. In the center of the table they place bowls of fruit and sweets, and perhaps vases with flowers. They give each person a pitcher of water along with a glass for drinking. Two people may share one pitcher, but each has his own glass from which no one else may drink, for they regard that as the height of cleanliness. If it is one of their own people, they also give him a pitcher of wine and a glass. Every two or three places, they set down a holder with two small glass dishes, one containing salt and the other ground black pepper, which we call libzār, along with a delicate little spoon for serving it, for they do not cook with salt and each diner adds it according to his taste.

不用手接觸食物

他們的另一個習俗是不用手接觸食物，也不會圍在一個盤子旁邊。
用餐時，傭人會準備一張木桌，桌子立在[高高的]腿上。
這些桌腿可以打開，也可以折疊起來；如果打開，就在中間加一塊木板，使整個桌子變大；但如果[客人]少，[原來的]桌子就足夠了。
也就是說，他們可以讓桌子的大小符合用餐人數：
四人、十人或任何人數。
之後，他們用一塵不染的白布將桌子完全蓋上，然後在每個地方放上一個小空碟子，碟子上放上一條折疊好的小白毛巾，以供膝蓋使用。
還有一塊麵包、一把銀湯匙、一把小刀和一把三齒小叉，也是銀制的。
在桌子的中央，他們會放一碗水果和糖果，也許會放一些插著花的花瓶。
他們會給每個人一壺水和一個喝水的杯子。
兩個人可以共用一個水壺，但每個人都有自己的杯子，其他人不能喝，因為他們認為這是最乾淨的做法。
如果是自己人，他們也會給他一壺酒和一個杯子。
每隔兩到三個地方，他們就會放置一個有兩個小玻璃盤子的托架，其中一個放鹽，另一個放磨好的黑胡椒，我們稱之為 libzār，還有一個精巧的小湯匙，用來盛放鹽和黑胡椒，因為他們不使用鹽烹調，每個用餐者都會根據自己的口味添加鹽。

 

Then they bring on a basin made of bright brass with holes at the sides it may be either round or rectangular-with a flat cover. Inside is a lighted candle. They place one of these at each end of the table and set the platters of food on top to keep them hot. The chairs are lined up at the sides of the table, and nearby they make ready great numbers of plates, spoons, knives, and forks. It takes the servants two hours or more to prepare the table.

然後，他們端上一個用明亮黃銅製成的盆，盆邊有孔，可以是圓形或長方形，有一個平蓋。
盆內有一支點燃的蠟燭。
他們在桌子的兩端各放一個這樣的盆，然後把食物的盤子放在上面，讓它們保持熱度。
椅子排在桌子兩側，他們在附近準備好大量的盤子、湯匙、刀和叉。
服務員需要花上兩個小時或更長的時間來準備餐桌。

 

When mealtime arrives, the diners enter and sit, while the servants stand at the head. They bring each person a little glass bowl of water for washing the hands and a second small towel for drying them. Then each [diner] takes the first towel and puts it on his knees, and takes up the spoon that is at his right hand. First they bring on the soup, known to us as shurba. They have many creative ways of making it. Sometimes they combine greens with meat broth, and at other times they make it with flour and thin noodles. It is drunk with the spoon. When it is finished, the servant removes the bowl with the spoon in it, replacing it with a clean one. Then he brings a large platter of meat, fish, or chicken, already cut into small pieces to make it easier to serve; there is also a large spoon for serving. It is offered to each diner in turn, and if he desires it, he takes it himself or asks the servant to serve him; or he may refuse it, saying "merci," which means "thank you very much," for that is considered polite there, even with servants.

用餐

用餐時間一到，用餐者進來坐下，服務員則站在桌前。
他們會為每個人端來一個小玻璃碗，裡面盛著洗手用的水，再拿一條小毛巾擦乾雙手。
然後每位用餐者拿起第一條毛巾放在膝上，並拿起右手邊的湯匙。
首先，他們端上湯，我們稱之為 shurba。
他們有許多創意的做法。
有時他們會把蔬菜和肉湯結合起來，有時他們會用麵粉和細麵條來做。
湯是用湯匙喝的。
喝完後，傭人會把裝湯匙的碗拿走，換上乾淨的碗。
然後，他會端來一個大盤子，上面裝有已切成小塊的肉、魚或雞，以方便上菜；還有一個大湯匙，用來盛菜。
如果用餐者想吃，他可以自己拿或請傭人端上桌；他也可以拒絕，說「merci」，意思是「非常感謝」，因為在那裡，即使是對傭人，這也被視為禮貌。

If the dish being served is meat, for example, he takes up the fork in his left hand and the knife in his right and thrusts the fork deeply into the meat, cutting it with his knife, then raising it to his mouth and not seizing it directly with his hand, for that is considered disgusting by them. If the food is tasteless because it lacks salt, he finds it nearby and adds the amount he desires, and the same with the pepper if it is needed. If he wants some bread he may break off a bit with his hand, but if he wants to soak it in sauce he must take it on his fork and sop it up; otherwise he may [eat it] from his hand. If the food needs oil and vinegar, they are found in two bottles sitting together in a little holder; the servant passes them if the food requires it. At the end of every course, the servant removes the dishes and other things, and brings fresh ones. The number of dishes piles up, because they change them at every course, and no dish is ever eaten from twice. This is due to their excessive concern for cleanliness.

 

舉例來說，如果上菜的是肉類，他會左手拿叉，右手拿刀，把叉子深深插入肉中，用刀切開，然後舉到嘴邊，不要直接用手抓，因為這樣會被他們視為不禮貌。
如果食物因缺少鹽而無味，他會在附近找到鹽，並加入他想要的份量，如果需要胡椒粉，也是一樣。
如果他想吃麵包，他可以用手掰下一點，但如果他想把麵包泡在醬汁裡，他必須用叉子叉起麵包，然後沾上醬汁；否則，他可以用手拿著[吃]。
如果食物需要油和醋，它們會被放在兩個瓶子裡，一起放在一個小支架上；如果食物需要，僕人就會把它們遞過去。
每道菜吃完後，僕人會把碗碟和其他東西拿走，再拿新的來。
餐具的數量堆積如山，因為他們每道菜都會更換餐具，而且沒有一道菜會被吃掉兩次。
這是因為他們過度注重清潔。

Every meal has an established order. They begin with a type of broth of meat or the like, follow that with a roast of chicken or some other meat, and then finish off with fruits and sweets. They begin each meal with something easily digested and light on the stomach, put fish or chicken before the meat, and separate one course from the next by a little wait. The sign of the end of the soup and the beginning of the roast is that they serve a little glass with egg thickened with sugar, flour, and milk. It has been left on ice until it too is like ice. The sign that the fruit is about to be served is that the plate and utensils are changed for a beautifully fragile dish, with a fork and knife plated with gold. When the meal is over, the servants bring out water infused with something that adds an aroma to the food, such as thyme. Then they wash their hands and dry them, and get up.

 

每餐都有既定的順序。
他們以一種肉湯或類似食物開始，接著是烤雞或其他肉類，最後以水果和糖果結束。
他們每餐都以容易消化、清淡的食物開始，在肉類之前先放魚或雞肉，並將一道菜與下一道菜稍作區隔。
湯的結束和烤肉開始的標誌是，他們端上一小杯用糖、麵粉和牛奶勾芡的雞蛋。
它一直放在冰上，直到它也像冰一樣。
水果即將上桌的跡象是，盤子和用具會換成精美易碎的盤子，刀叉也會鍍金。
用餐結束後，僕人會端出注入了能增加食物香氣的水，例如百里香。
然後他們洗手擦乾，起身。

 

If they are in the home of one of their own people, they do not rise until the mistress of the house rises, nor do they sit down in the first place until she has been seated. After rising they all go into another room, for the dining room is not a sitting room, and the sitting room must be kept spotless. The servants follow with coffee, which they drink while engaging in easy conversation. Then each leaves for his own affairs.

 

如果是在自己人的家中，他們要等到女主人起身後才起身，也要等到女主人坐下後才坐下。
起身後，他們都會到另一個房間，因為餐廳不是起居室，起居室必須保持一塵不染。
隨後，傭人端來咖啡，他們一邊喝咖啡，一邊輕鬆地談話。
之後，他們各自去忙自己的事情。

 

They linger at the table for more than two hours, because it is their custom to stretch out the talk during the meal so they can overindulge in food. The Arabs say that perfect hospitality is friendliness at first sight and leisurely talk with one's table companions. But we detested the arrival of mealtimes because of the endless waiting, nor did we understand their conversation. Moreover, much of the food did not agree with us, and we got tired and irritated with the long sitting and waiting. This is everything that relates to their manner of eating.

用餐時間

他們在餐桌前逗留的時間超過兩個小時，因為他們的習慣是在用餐時延長談話時間，以便可以盡情享用食物。
阿拉伯人說，完美的待客之道是一見鍾情，與同桌的人悠閒地交談。
但是，我們討厭用餐時間的到來，因為無休止的等待，我們也聽不懂他們的談話。
此外，很多食物都不合乎我們的口味，長時間的坐著等待讓我們感到疲憊和煩躁。
這一切都與他們的飲食方式有關。

As for their diet, ir is mostly meat, fish, the large chickens known to us as turkeys, wild game, goose, rice, noodles, and little balls made of flour which are moist in the middle and are fried like small fritters. They have green peass all through the year because they plant them indoors, as we have already mentioned. Other greens are found year-round, [such as] spinach and green beans, which they cook with milk, and celery, both cooked and raw. Turnips,which they cook separately and not with meat as we do, are so sweet that some people are not able to eat them. They have various kinds of thick puddings, some from eggs, sugar, flour, and milk, others from coffee and the like. Other vegetables are the artichoke, both stem and cup, which are cooked separately, and also a variety of cauliflower which they cook without salt, but serve with salt, oil, and sugar.

飲食

至於他們的飲食，主要是肉、魚、我們稱為火雞的大雞、野味、鵝、米飯、麵條和麵粉做成的小球，這些小球中間是濕的，炸起來像小油炸食品。
他們一年四季都有綠色的豌豆，因為他們把豌豆種在室內，我們已經提到過。
他們一年四季都有其他綠色蔬菜，[例如] 菠菜和青豆，他們用牛奶煮青豆，還有芹菜，有煮熟的，也有生的。
蘿蔔，他們會單獨烹調，不會像我們一樣和肉一起煮，因為太甜，有些人無法食用。
他們有各式各樣的厚布丁，有些是用雞蛋、糖、麵粉和牛奶做成的，有些則是用咖啡等做成的。
其他蔬菜有洋蓟，包括茎和杯，都是单独烹饪的，还有一种花椰菜，他们烹饪时不放盐，而是放盐、油和糖。

The European potato is also found there, and it is rarely absent from a meal. They prepare it by itself or with other things. Also the truffle, which is black; generally they add a bit of it to the cooking, or stuff a turkey with it, for it is exceedingly expensive theresomeone told me that it is sold for twelve riyāls. Think what an exorbitant price that is! They have mushrooms like those which grow wild in Morocco; they make much of them, serving them by themselves or along with something else. They have apples cooked with sugar. Among their raw vegetables are celery, and the greens known to us as cress and lettuce. Small, delicious radishes and green olives are a must at the table. All these are served as salads, but separately, without mixing them together. They also have shallots with green peppers soaked in vinegar. As for onions, they do not care much for them and one sees them hardly at all.

馬鈴薯

歐洲的馬鈴薯也在那裡出現，而且很少會在餐點中缺席。
他們會單獨烹調或與其他東西一起烹調。
另外還有黑松露；通常他們會在烹飪中加入一點，或在火雞中塞入黑松露，因為在那裡黑松露非常昂貴--有人告訴我黑松露要賣 12 里亞爾。
想想這是多麼昂貴的價格！他們有像摩洛哥野生蘑菇一樣的蘑菇；他們非常喜歡吃蘑菇，可以單獨吃，也可以和其他東西一起吃。
他們有用糖煮熟的蘋果。
他們的生蔬菜包括芹菜，以及我們稱為芹菜和萵苣的蔬菜。
小而美味的蘿蔔和綠橄欖是餐桌上必備的。
所有這些都可以當沙拉吃，但要分開吃，不能混在一起。
他們還吃蔥和泡在醋中的青椒。
至於洋蔥，他們不太在意，而且幾乎見不到。

 

Their meat is chiefly beef or lamb, all of which is extremely fat, especially the veal. They have a special occasion for fattening meat, which is an annual feast called carnaval. It lasts for three days, during which they make merry by dressing up in costumes and disguising themselves with ugly masks having huge eyes or crooked mouths. During those three days they parade around the countryside in a great procession led by the fattest bull of all. Then the bull is slaughtered and its owner is given an amount of money equal to its fat. Therefore people fatten their calves, each hoping his calf will grow into the fattest and win the competition. For this reason you will not find lean meat there.

牛肉或羊肉

他們的肉主要是牛肉或羊肉，都非常肥美，尤其是小牛肉。
他們有一個特別的場合來吃肥肉，那就是一年一度的盛宴，稱為 carnaval。
嘉年華會持續三天，在這三天裡，他們會穿上盛裝，戴上醜陋的面具，面具上有巨大的眼睛或歪斜的嘴巴，以示歡樂。
在這三天裡，他們會在最肥的公牛帶領下，在鄉間巡遊。
然後，這頭公牛會被宰殺，牛主會得到與其脂肪等值的金錢。
因此，人們會把牛犢養得很肥，每個人都希望自己的牛犢長得最肥，並在比賽中獲勝。
因此，您在那裡找不到瘦肉。

As for fish, they are extremely artful in its preparation. Sometimes they cook it in water and at serving time sprinkle vinegar, butter, and salt on it; other times they remove the bones and put breadcrumbs on each piece, one by one, making rolls of it and then baking or grilling it. They eat a certain kind of fish that may be large or small; its peculiarity is that in the water it is green, but when cooked it becomes red. They give fish an important place in their diet and there is hardly a meal without it.

魚類

至於魚類，他們的烹調方法極富藝術性。
有些時候，他們把魚放進水裏煮，上桌時在魚上灑上醋、黃油和鹽；有些時候，他們會把魚骨去掉，然後把麵包糠一塊一塊地鋪在魚上，做成魚卷，然後烘烤或燒烤。
他們吃一種魚，可大可小；其特點是在水中是綠色的，但煮熟後會變成紅色。
魚在他們的飲食中佔有很重要的地位，幾乎每餐都少不了魚。

They are not creative in varying their menus with different things. Even if they have just eaten [something], they bring it on the next time. In general their food lacks flavor, and even salt and pepper. But he who has no choice can make do; of necessity, one can stay alive on it.

 

他們沒有創造性地用不同的東西來變化他們的菜單。
即使他們剛吃過 [某樣東西]，他們也會在下次再吃。
一般來說，他們的食物缺乏味道，甚至缺乏鹽和胡椒。
但沒有選擇的人也可以勉強度日；在迫不得已的情況下，人可以靠它維持生命。

Their fruits and sweets, on the other hand, are delicious and good-tasting. Among the fruits we ate there were apples and pears, which are available all through the winter season. They are quite perfect and free of rot. Oranges are not abundant in their country, and they bring them in from abroad. Grapes grow year round but are not as plentiful as apples or pears, so they only serve a bunch or two of them. They eat apples and pears raw, or cook them and sprinkle them with sugar. Among their other common fruits are apricots, which they preserve in sugar, and plums, peaches, and green figs, which are also served with sugar. They also have dried ones. Sweet oranges and bitter oranges are found there too, as well as almonds, whose skin can be removed by rubbing them with the hands. Also hazelnuts and chestnuts are plentiful, but walnuts, currants, and dates are not, and have to be brought in from outside.

水果和糖果

另一方面，他們的水果和糖果非常美味可口。
在我們吃的水果中，有蘋果和梨，它們在整個冬季都有供應。
它們非常完美，沒有腐爛。
橘子在他們的國家不多，他們從國外進口。
葡萄全年生長，但不像蘋果或梨那麼多，所以他們只供應一兩串葡萄。
他們生吃蘋果和梨，或者煮熟後撒上糖。
他們常吃的水果還有杏，用糖來保存，李子、桃子和無花果也是用糖來保存。
他們也有乾果。
他們也有甜橙和苦橙，以及杏仁，用手搓揉可以去掉杏仁皮。
榛子和栗子也很多，但核桃、栗子和棗子則不多，必須從外面帶進來。

透過 DeepL.com（免費版）翻譯

 

For sweets they have what is known to us as "biscuits," which they make in various ways, either with almonds or sesame seeds, or by filling them with egg whites mixed with sugar, or by sprinkling them with orange water. They are very good. They also make them with sugared almonds and chocolate, which they know about and cook in the usual way. They make dry cakes from it. Another kind of sweet, made from almonds and honey, is in the shape of a dome or tower, or a large vase. They often use bitter almonds in making sweets. All their sweet syrups are made from sugar, for bees' honey is very scarce and used only for medicaments. They get it from other countries, because there is none in their own land due to the cold. They have many [kinds] of candies wrapped prettily in colored paper to make them more appealing to the eye, and [selling them] provides a living for the poorer ones among them.

餅乾

他們有我們稱為 「餅乾 」的甜食，製作方法有很多，可以用杏仁或芝麻，也可以用蛋白拌糖，或者灑上橘子水。
它們非常好吃。
他們也用糖衣杏仁和巧克力製作，他們知道巧克力，並用一般的方法烹調。
他們用它來做乾蛋糕。
另一種甜點是用杏仁和蜂蜜做成的，形狀是圓頂或塔，或是一個大花瓶。
他們常用苦杏仁製作糖果。
他們所有的甜糖水都是用糖製成的，因為蜜蜂的蜂蜜非常稀少，只能用來製藥。
他們從其他國家取得，因為寒冷的關係，他們自己的土地上沒有蜂蜜。
他們有許多[各式各樣]的糖果，用有色紙包得很漂亮，使它們更吸引人的眼球，[賣糖果]可以讓他們中較貧窮的人維持生計。

Their drink at mealtimes is wine, generally mixed with water, for they never drink it alone, just as they do not drink water alone. They cannot do without it, and wash down their food with it at mealtimes. Many varieties exist, but two are used more than others, the well-known red and another they call champagne; if you pour it into a glass, large bubbles rise up and then sink back down. This is the finest of all their wines. They never overindulge in it to the point of drunkenness or keel over, for that is considered disgraceful. Whoever does that is not counted among the people of good breeding."

酒

他們用餐時的飲料是酒，通常與水混合，因為他們從不單獨飲酒，就像他們不單獨喝水一樣。
他們不能沒有酒，用餐時會用酒來沖洗食物。
葡萄酒的品種很多，但有兩種使用較多，一種是眾所皆知的紅酒，另一種則被稱為香檳酒；如果將酒倒入杯中，會有大量氣泡冒出，然後又沉下去。
這是他們所有葡萄酒中最好的。
他們從不飲酒過量以至醉倒或翻倒，因為那被認為是不光彩的。
這樣做的人不屬於優秀的人"。

These people do not make a practice of storing up foodstuffs.You will not find any in their houses except at mealtimes, even in the homes of the rich and notable. Nor do they make bread at home, as we do, but get it from the marketplace. At the start of the day the master of the house gives money to his servant, who goes out and buys everything needed for that particular day, such as bread, meat, chicken, fish, vegetables, and so on.

不貯藏食物

這些人不貯藏食物，除了用餐時，你不會在他們的家中發現任何食物，即使在有錢人和有名望的人的家中也是如此。
他們也不像我們一樣在家裡做麵包，而是從市場上購買。
一天開始時，主人會給僕人錢，僕人會出去買當天所需的一切，例如麵包、肉、雞、魚、蔬菜等等。

Chickens are sold killed and already plucked clean, for they do not slaughter them as we do. Likewise all their game meat, such as rabbits, birds, etc., is already dead, and is not killed by slitting the throat. They claim that by strangling it, the strength stays in it.¹¹ The servant brings the provisions home and roasts what needs to be roasted, grills what is to be grilled, treating each thing in its proper manner. This is their custom every day, and no one is burdened with buying grain, or grinding it, or storing it up."

他們賣的雞都是殺好的，而且已經拔乾淨了，因為他們不會像我們一樣屠宰雞隻。
同樣地，他們所有的野味，如兔子、鳥等，都是已經死了的，而不是割喉殺死的。
¹¹僕人會把食物帶回家，該烤的烤，該燒烤的燒烤，以適當的方式處理每樣東西。
這是他們每天的習慣，沒有人有買穀物、磨穀物、儲存穀物的負擔」。

The important men of the marketplaces are responsible for provisioning the city sufficiently so that nothing will run short during the year. You will not find people crowding around to buy what is there. Despite the huge size of the city and its vast population, everything is available in plentiful amounts, to the point where you would think there were no buyers because of the quantity you see in the shops and marketplaces. Moreover, none of it spoils and meat stands for days at a time without getting rotten.

市場

市場上的重要人物負責為城市提供足夠的糧食，使一年中不會有任何短缺。
你不會發現人們擠在一起買那裡的東西。
儘管這座城市規模龐大、人口眾多，但每樣東西都有充足的數量，以至於您會因為在商店和市集看到的數量而以為沒有買家。
此外，所有的東西都不會變壞，肉類可以放置好幾天而不會腐爛。

 

Now a few words about what we learned about the butchering of meat in Paris. One day I saw in the gazette that in the month of January [1846], during which they observed the festival of the New Year, they slaughtered 7,248 bulls, 1,839 cows, 7,228 calves, and 41,819 sheep. This month did not show a great increase over the previous month, the difference being only because of the holiday. [The difference was] 461 bulls, 289 calves, and 188 sheep.

屠宰肉類

現在談談我們在巴黎學到的屠宰肉類的知識。
有一天，我在憲報上看到，在一月[1846年]，他們在這段期間慶祝新年，屠宰了7,248頭公牛、1,839頭母牛、7,228頭小牛和41,819頭绵羊。
這個月的屠宰量與前一個月相比並沒有顯著增加，差異只是因為過節的關係。
[差額為] 461 頭公牛、289 頭小牛和 188 隻绵羊。

Likewise a few words on what we learned about prices. First of all, you should know that their coinage [includes] the riyal, which is known to us, since it circulates [in Morocco] now at the rate of sixteen üqiyas. Also the franc, which is one fifth of it, and the sol, their smallest coin, twenty of which make a franc.

價格

同樣地，我們也要說幾句關於價格的心得。
首先，您應該知道他們的硬幣[包括]里亞爾，這是我們所知道的，因為它現在以 16 üqiyas 的價格在[摩洛哥]流通。
還有法郎，是里亞爾的五分之一，還有索爾，他們最小的錢幣，二十個索爾組成一個法郎。

 

The price of good bread is four sols a rail, for they do not sell it by the piece, as we do, but by weight. The loaf which is less than a rall costs two sols. A rall of meat is fifteen sols, with no difference between beef and mutton, except that veal is eighteen sols a rail. A small chicken costs a riyal, a turkey eight francs, a single goose half a riyal, and butter, depending on its quality and freshness, from twenty to forty sols. Eggs are two for a sol, and a rabbit is a riyāl. A rail of sugar is a franc, a ratl of coffee two francs, and chocolate is half a riyal. A rail of tea costs from twelve to fifteen francs, but it is not good indeed, not even mediocre. It looks like dry grass and does not have the taste of the tea we know. If it were not for the milk, one could not drink it, nor do they care much for it [themselves). The price of a live bull is 120 francs or more, and a prize bull that they parade at carnaval, such as we have mentioned, can cost as much as 3,000 francs. They say that these bulls sometimes weigh twenty-four qintars.

 

好麵包的價格是四索爾一條，因為他們不像我們一樣按塊出售，而是按重量出售。
少於一拉爾的麵包要兩索爾。
一拉爾的肉是十五索爾，牛肉和羊肉沒有區別，只是小牛肉是十八索爾一拉爾。
一隻小雞要一里亞爾，一隻火雞要八法郎，一隻鵝要半里亞爾，黃油則視其品質和新鮮度而定，從二十到四十索爾不等。
雞蛋兩個一個索爾，一隻兔子一個里亞爾。
一桶糖是一法郎，一桶咖啡是兩法郎，巧克力是半里亞爾。
一塊茶葉要 12 到 15 法郎，但茶葉並不好，甚至很一般。
它看起來像乾草，沒有我們所知道的茶的味道。
如果不是因為有牛奶，人們根本喝不到，他們自己也不太在意。
一頭活公牛的價格是 120 法郎或更高，而在嘉年華會上遊行的一頭獎品公牛（如我們提到的），價格可高達 3,000 法郎。
據說這些公牛有時重達二十四金塔。

 

I saw good olives, the sweet variety, for two francs a rail, and other varieties for fifteen sols. A rail of candle wax costs thirty-five sols. Their candles are made from the fat of the cow, or perhaps from fish fat, which is extremely white, but the former is more usual. As for beeswax, it is extremely scarce there. They burn candles more often than oil, though their light is feeble. One candle of ours is equal to three or four of theirs. Wood is sold by weight, not by the load, a qințăr of it costing about three francs.

 

我看到上好的橄欖，甜的品種，兩法郎一桶，其他品種十五索羅。
一條蠟燭要三十五索爾。
他們的蠟燭是用牛的脂肪或魚的脂肪製成的，魚的脂肪非常白，但前者比較常見。
至於蜂蠟，在那裡非常稀少。
他們燃燒蠟燭的次數比油還多，儘管它們的光線很微弱。
我們的一支蠟燭相當於他們的三到四支。
木頭是按重量賣的，不是按負重賣的，一錢約三法郎。

This is what we learned on this subject, and God is my witness.

這就是我們所學到的，上帝是我的見證。

 

NOTES：

1. Aş-Şaffar's discourse on French cooking and eating habits is much longer and more detailed than the comparable section in at-Tahțāwī. See Takhliş, pp. 113-15; L'or, pp. 148-50.

2. Arabic shilya, from the Spanish silla. Dozy 1:783.

3. Jackson described the Moroccan meal as follows: "The Moors wash their hands before every meal, which they eat with their fingers: half a dozen persons sit round a large bowl each person puts his hand to the bowl, and taking up the food, puts it by a dexterous jerk, into his mouth, without suffering his fingers to touch the lips. They have no chairs or tables in their houses, but sit cross-legged on carpets and cushions; and at meals, the dish or bowl of provisions is placed on the floor." Account, p. 139.

4. Dajaj al-hind, literally "chickens from India."

5. Peas (jilbana) is Moroccan dialect, as are mushrooms (fuqqa) and cress (karwinash); other vegetable names are in Classical Arabic. See H. P. J. Renaud and G. S. Colin, Tuhfat al-Ahbab: Glossaire de la matière médicale marocaine (Paris, 1934), passim.

6. In Morocco, truffles (Arabic tarfās) grow wild in the oak forests of the north, in the mountains of the Middle Atlas, and in the Sus. Jackson reported that they were in great demand when in season, and "sell at a much higher price than grapes, or any other fruit or vegetable." Account, p. 76; Dozy 1:145.

7. Carnival, from the Latin carn "meat" + levare "to raise." The festival of merrymaking before the season of Lent. Parisians of every social class would dress in costumes and carouse in the streets. Aş-Şaffär did not see Carnival at first hand, but may have read about it in at-Tahțāwī, or heard about it from his escorts. Compare with Takhliş, p. 123; L'or, p. 159.

8. Lobster and shrimp have a pigment in their shells that changes from blue to red when heated.

9. Bishkitů. This word is not vocalized in aş-Şaffar's text, suggesting it may have been in common use. Al-Ghassani, Iftikāk, p. 87, defines it as "bread kneaded with sugar and egg yolks," an adaptation of the Spanish bizcocho, according to Bustani. Aş-Şaffär uses it to mean pastries in general. 10. Shaklāt; also found in al-Ghassānī, Iftikāk, p. 87.

11. Al-Ghassani noted the same decorum among the Spanish. Iftikäk,P. 37.

12. According to Islamic law, only animals killed by slitting the throat and draining out the blood are suitable for consumption. An animal strangled to death falls into the category of mayta ("carrion"), and the thought of consuming it is repugnant to the practicing Muslim. SEI, s.v. "Maita."

13. Moroccan households would stockpile certain types of foodstuffs, taking advantage of seasonal prices. Quantities of wheat would be bought at harvesttime, ground into flour, and then turned into couscous, the tiny grainlike pasta which is a staple of the Moroccan diet. The couscous would then be put in sacks and stored in the house for family use.

14. In Arabic, arbäb al-aswäq.

 

15. See p. 134 note 21.

16. Introduced into Morocco in the eighteenth century, the consumption of tea was at first restricted to the Makhzan. Often it was included among the gifts of foreign ambassadors to the Sultan. By aş-Şaffär's day, tea-drinking was widespread, reaching as far as the Saharan oases. Moroccan tea is prepared with fresh mint and sugar, giving it a distinctive taste. See J.-L. Miège, "origine et développement de la consummation du thé au Maroc," Bulletin économique et social du Maroc 20, 71 (1956): 377-98.

註解：

1. Aş-Şaffar 對法國烹飪和飲食習慣的論述，比 at-Tahțāwī 中的同類部分更長、更詳盡。
請參閱 Takhliş，第 113-15 頁；L'or，第 148-50 頁。

2. 阿拉伯文 shilya，源自西班牙文 silla。
Dozy 1:783.

3. Jackson 對摩洛哥人用餐的描述如下：
 「摩爾人每餐前都要洗手，他們用手指吃飯：
半打人圍坐在一個大碗旁，每個人都把手放在碗上，然後拿起食物，以靈巧的動作放入口中，手指不會碰到嘴唇。
他們的房子裡沒有椅子或桌子，而是盤腿坐在地毯和墊子上；用餐時，盛食物的盤子或碗就放在地上。
帳目》，第 139 頁。

4. Dajaj al-hind，字面意思是「來自印度的雞」。

5. 豌豆 (jilbana) 是摩洛哥方言，蘑菇 (fuqqa) 和芹菜 (karwinash) 也是摩洛哥方言；其他蔬菜名稱是古典阿拉伯語。
請參閱 H. P. J. Renaud 和 G. S. Colin, Tuhfat al-Ahbab：
 見 H. P. J. Renaud and G. S. Colin, Tuhfat al-Ahbab: Glossaire de la matière médicale marocaine (Paris, 1934), passim.

6. 在摩洛哥，松露 (阿拉伯語 tarfās) 野生生長在北部的橡樹林、中阿特拉斯 (Middle Atlas) 山區以及蘇斯 (Sus)。
Jackson 報導說，當季的松露需求量很大，「賣價遠高於葡萄或其他水果或蔬菜」。
Account, p. 76; Dozy 1:145.

7. 嘉年華會，源自拉丁文 carn 「meat」 + levare 「飼養」。
大齋期之前的歡樂節日。
每個社會階級的巴黎人都會穿上盛裝，在街上縱情歡樂。
Aş-Şaffär 並未親眼看到嘉年華會，但可能在《Tahțāwī》中讀到過，或從他的護送者口中聽到過。
請參閱 Takhliş，第 123 頁；L'or，第 159 頁。

8. 龍蝦和蝦殼中有一種顏料，加熱後會由藍色變成紅色。

9. Bishkitů. 這個詞在 aş-Şaffar 的文字中沒有發聲，顯示它可能已被普遍使用。
Al-Ghassani, Iftikāk, 第 87 頁，將其定義為「用糖和蛋黃揉成的麵包」，根據 Bustani 的說法，這是西班牙文 bizcocho 的變體。
Aş-Şaffär 用它來表示一般糕點。
10. Shaklāt；亦見於 al-Ghassānī，Iftikāk，第 87 頁。

11. Al-Ghassani 指出西班牙人也有同樣的禮儀。
Iftikäk,P. 37.

12. 根據伊斯蘭律法，只有割喉放血殺死的動物才適合食用。
被絞死的動物屬於 Mayta（「腐爛」）類別，對於信奉伊斯蘭教的人來說，食用這種動物的想法是令人反感的。
SEI, s.v. 「Maita」.

13. 摩洛哥家庭會利用季節性價格囤積某些種類的食品。
在收成時購買一定數量的小麥，磨成麵粉，然後製成庫斯庫斯（Couscous），這種小穀物狀的義大利麵是摩洛哥人的主食。
庫斯庫斯（Couscous）會被裝進麻袋，儲存在家中供家人使用。

14. 阿拉伯語為 arbäb al-aswäq。

15. 見第 134 頁註 21。

16. 茶於十八世紀引入摩洛哥，起初只限於 Makhzan 人飲用。
在十八世紀，茶葉被引入摩洛哥，最初只限於 Makhzan 人飲用。
到了 aş-Şaffär 的時代，飲茶已非常普遍，遠至撒哈拉綠洲。
摩洛哥茶是用新鮮薄荷和糖調配而成，味道獨特。
請參閱 J.-L. Miège, 「origine et développement de la consummation du thé au Maroc,」 Bulletin économique et social du Maroc 20, 71 (1956)：
 377-98.