1-4游览巴黎。

 1-4Seeing Paris.

1-4游览巴黎。

Paris in the 1840s had the air of the grande dame of Europe. London may have been the financial capital of the world, but Paris was its cultural epicenter, exuding the self-confidence of a beauty come of age. Her domain was style, and she reveled in her preeminent po- sition as its arbiter and judge. The swarms of visitors who came to see her industry, art, fashions, and luxury reminded Parisians of the degree of progress that French society had attained.


19 世紀 40 年代的巴黎充滿歐洲貴婦的氣質。倫敦可能是世界金融之都,但巴黎卻是其文化中心,散發著美麗時代的自信。她的領域是風格,她陶醉於自己作為風格仲裁者和評判者的卓越地位。大批遊客前來參觀她的工業、藝術、時裝和奢侈品,提醒巴黎人法國社會已達到的進步程度。


Yet the arrival of the Moroccan embassy in Paris captivated even the most jaded Parisians, used to the appearance of foreign poten- tates. There was a special aura about the envoy from the Sultan, relating to the peculiar place of Morocco in the popular imagination ---a country so close geographically yet so distant in manners and mentality that "a Moroccan looks quite like a Chinese." And there was the graceful and striking figure of the ambassador him- self, which conjured up visions of adventure and romance. "The envoy from Morocco has caught... the imagination of Paris. Everything about him recalls the court of the Moorish kings of Granada and the brilliant Abencerages of whom he is a descendent."47


然而,摩洛哥大使館抵達巴黎後,即使是最厭倦的巴黎人也被吸引住了,因為他們已經習慣了外國勢力的出現。來自蘇丹的使節身上有一種特殊的光環,這與摩洛哥在大眾想像中的特殊地位有關--這個國家在地理上如此接近,但在禮儀和心態上卻如此遙遠,以至於 「摩洛哥人看起來很像中國人」。大使本人優雅而引人注目的身影,讓人聯想到冒險和浪漫。「摩洛哥大使吸引了......巴黎的想像力。他的一切都讓人想起格拉納達摩爾人國王的宮廷,以及他的後裔--傑出的阿本賽人 "47。


Details of his dress were noted, from the stuff of his headcloth to the shape of his slippers:


我們注意到他穿著的細節,從頭巾的質料到拖鞋的形狀:


The Ambassador is a young man of twenty-eight years; his form is pleasing and regular, his features fine, his eyes kind and expressive. His hands are small and beautifully shaped. He wears a sarbouch, pointed at the end, around which is wound a turban of fine muslin. His head is encircled by a scarf of red cashmere. . Over several short jackets he wears a [garment]... with wide, floating sleeves. This is the jellaba, the national dress of Morocco. A belt secures the jellaba around him. When the Pasha goes out, he puts on two more burnooses, 49 one of wool and the other of a heavy gray mate- rial. He wears lovely hose of white silk, and yellow babouchesso which he always wears with the backs pushed down.5


大使是一位 28 歲的年輕男子;他的身形優美而規整,五官端正,眼睛和善而富有表情。他的手很小,形狀優美。他戴著一頂末端尖尖的薩爾布袋,裡面纏繞著一條細紗頭巾。他的頭上圍著一圈紅色羊絨圍巾。他在幾件短外套外面穿著一件 [衣服]......,袖子又寬又飄逸。這是摩洛哥的國服 jellaba。一條腰帶將 Jellaba 固定在他身上。當 Pasha 出門時,他會再穿上兩件外套,49 一件是羊毛的,另一件是厚重的灰色袍子。他穿著可愛的白色絲綢軟管和黃色的 babouchesso,他總是把背朝下穿著。



Shortly after their arrival, L'Illustration printed a series of sketches of the ambassador and his suite. Now visual images rein- forced the picturesque prose, as Paris threw itself headlong into making the Moroccans the chief attraction of the winter social sea- son. Invitations to balls, charitable events and "spectacles," requests for money, gifts and offerings of poetry, even letters of ad- vice and caution flowed in. Auguste Beaumier, the young secretary assigned to the delegation, struggled to keep the ambassador's household running smoothly and his social schedule in order. Here is Beaumier's description of a typical day, 17 January 1846:


在他們抵達後不久,L'Illustration 印刷了一系列大使及其賓客的素描。現在,視覺形象取代了如詩如畫的散文,巴黎全力以赴,讓摩洛哥人成為冬季社交活動的主要亮點。邀請參加舞會、慈善活動和 「盛會」、索要金錢、贈送禮物和贈送詩歌,甚至是勸告和警告的信件都源源不絕。被指派給代表團的年輕秘書 Auguste Beaumier 奮力維持大使的家務運作順暢和社交日程井然有序。以下是 Beaumier 對 1846 年 1 月 17 日典型一天的描述:


Some petitioners awaken me at eight, after which I respond to a score of letters addressed to the ambassador of Morocco, which must be answered politely.. Then a dozen valets arrive for the orders of the day, and I do the accounts of the previous day. Following that, a visit to the ambassador and his suite, and a general review to see that all is well: who is in need of a doctor, a barber, or a bath. Then everyone is called to lunch, while I act as interpreter for the invited guests. After that, instructions to go directly to the Champ-de-Mars. Roches arrives in time to take charge of arranging the ambas- sador and his officers in the carriages. We cross Paris in the midst of a parade of the curious. Arriving at the Ecole Mili- taire, we go up onto a balcony. At three o'clock, we return with the ambassador and I write the necessary letters of thanks. Later, I go over the events planned for the evening, and give an accounting of the day's expenses, insofar as possible. Dinner next, two deadly hours but a first- class meal-600 francs per day! I take some coffee, converse in Arabic for a time, take a carriage to the Théâtre-Italien. Return at midnight... and then to bed. 52


有些請願者在八點叫醒我,之後我要回幾封給摩洛哥大使的信,這些信必須禮貌地回答。之後,一打男僕來領取當天的命令,而我則處理前一天的帳目。接著是拜訪大使和他的套房,並檢查一切是否良好:誰需要看醫生、理髮或洗澡。然後叫大家去吃午飯,我則為受邀的客人擔任傳譯員。之後,指示我們直接前往 Champ-de-Mars。Roches 及時到達,負責安排大使和他的軍官上馬車。我們在好奇者的遊行中穿越巴黎。到達巴黎軍事學院(Ecole Mili-taire)後,我們走上陽台。三點鐘,我們和大使一起回來,我寫了必要的感謝信。之後,我複述了晚上計劃的活動,並盡可能交代了當天的開支。接下來是晚餐,兩個死氣沉沉的小時,但卻是一等餐--每天 600 法郎!我喝了一些咖啡,用阿拉伯語談了一會兒,然後坐馬車去 Théâtre-Italien 劇院。午夜返回......然後上床睡覺。52


After six weeks of this hectic schedule, Beaumier expressed his longing "to return again to the tranquility of Tangier and my little room, for all my strength is gone."


這種忙碌的日程表持續了六個星期之後,Beaumier 表示他渴望「再次回到丹吉爾的寧靜和我的小房間,因為我所有的力量都消失了」。



The ambassador's first days in Paris were spent fulfilling his role as emissary. On December 30th he presented his credentials to the King at a ceremony at the Palace of the Tuileries, and delivered to him the letter from the Sultan. The letter dealt mainly with the question of 'Abd al-Qadir, asking for patience while the Sultan implemented a plan to eject him from Morocco. "By using policy to expel him, that is, causing the people to forsake and abandon him until he stands alone," the letter argues, "he will leave without fur- ther exhausting effort." The letter also criticized the new border ar- rangements with Algeria, and ended with a sharp protest against French incursions along Morocco's southern coast. 55


大使在巴黎的最初幾天都在履行使者的職責。12 月 30 日,他在杜伊勒利宮(Palace of the Tuileries)舉行的儀式上向國王呈交了國書,並向他遞交了蘇丹的來函。信中主要談到了 'Abd al-Qadir 的問題,在蘇丹實施將他逐出摩洛哥的計劃時,他請求蘇丹耐心等待。信中說:「透過使用政策來驅逐他,也就是讓人民拋棄和遺棄他,直到他獨自站立為止,」「他將不費吹灰之力就會離開」。信中還批評了與阿爾及利亞的新邊界協定,並對法國入侵摩洛哥南部海岸提出了尖銳的抗議。55


It took more than a month for Guizot to reply. In his letter, the Foreign Minister suggested that instead of reviewing old griev- ances, "it would be better to throw a veil of forgetfulness over the past."56 In his view, the purpose of Ash'ash's mission to Paris was to place the Moroccans on display, and nothing more. In his Mé- moires Guizot glosses over the political aspects of the visit, repre- senting it instead as a spectacle devoid of substance. Ash'ash was "a young Arab of agreeable person, serious, modest, and gentle, of mild and elegant manners, anxious to show himself scrupulously attached to his faith, respectful, with dignity, more concerned with obtaining a good reception for himself and the sovereign he repre- sented than intent on any distinct political object." He was sent to Paris "as a demonstration of the friendly relations between France and Morocco."57


Guizot花了一個多月才回信。56在他看來,Ash'ash訪問巴黎的目的是展示摩洛哥人,僅此而已。Guizot 在他的《Mé- moires》中輕描淡寫了這次訪問的政治層面,將其視為一次沒有實質內容的奇觀。Ash'ash是 「一個年輕的阿拉伯人,為人和善、嚴肅、謙虛、溫柔,舉止溫和優雅,急於表明自己對信仰的堅持,恭敬而有尊嚴,更關心的是為自己和他所代表的君主爭取良好的接待,而不是任何明確的政治目的」。他被派往巴黎是「為了展示法國與摩洛哥之間的友好關係」57。



Guizor's comment reveals how, in French eyes, the embassyce was made to fit in the framework of a European-centered view of events, in which the element of demonstrating French superiority was predominant. The courtesy of their Moroccan guests, indeed, their very presence, were taken as signs of France's success in pursuing a foreign policy whose purpose, in the words of Guizot, was "to secure the safety of our possessions in Africa." The visit had been a success, he felt, because it seemed to bring the Moroccans even closer to accepting France as a permanent feature in the region. His reading of the event prevailed, and the embassy has gone down in French history as one more charming episode of petite histoire, "collected" by colonialist historians as testimony to the "grandeur of France" and the inevitability of its rule in North Africa. 59


Guizor的評論揭示了在法國人眼中,使館是如何在以歐洲為中心的事件框架中被建立起來的,其中展示法國優勢的因素佔了主導地位。摩洛哥客人的禮貌,甚至是他們的出現,都被視為法國成功推行外交政策的標誌,用吉佐(Guizot)的話來說,這項政策的目的是「確保我們在非洲屬地的安全」。他認為,這次訪問是成功的,因為它似乎讓摩洛哥人更願意接受法國成為該地區的永久性特色。他對這次事件的解讀佔了上風,而使館也被殖民主義史學家 「收藏 」起來,作為 「法國的偉大 」及其在北非統治的必然性的見證,成為法國歷史上又一個迷人的小插曲。59


His political responsibilities completed, Ash'ash and his suite devoted themselves to enjoying Paris. Contrary to aş-Şaffar's claim that "we rarely ventured out," the Moroccans led a busy social life under the watchful eyes of their French hosts. Some invitations were refused because they were considered beneath the ambassa- dor's rank: "We could have been commonplace by coming and go- ing frequently," aş-Şaffar explains, "but we were opposed to that." Beaumier always replied with a note, and in many cases a token of the ambassador's generosity. Among Ash'ash's contributions were 5,000 francs "for the poor people of Paris .. whatever their religion may be." The press remarked on the ambassador's "princely generosity," calling him a "nabob" with "his hands filled with presents."


政治任務完成後,Ash'ash 和他的妻妾們就專心享受巴黎的生活。與 aş-Şaffar 所說的 「我們很少外出 」相反,摩洛哥人在法國主人的監視下過著繁忙的社交生活。有些邀約被拒絕,因為他們被認為低於大使的等級:「我們本可以經常來來去去,變得平凡,」aş-Şaffar 解釋說,「但我們反對這樣做」。Beaumier 每次都會回信,而且在很多情況下都是大使慷慨解囊的信物。在 Ash'ash 的捐款中,有 5,000 法郎是 「捐給巴黎的窮人......不管他們信仰什麼宗教」。媒體評論大使的 「慷慨」,稱他為 「手握禮物 」的 「貴族」。



The most magnificent presents were for the King: Before leaving Paris, Ash'ash handed over six Arabian horses and a troop of wild animals at a ceremony at the Tuileries. The animals, destined for the Jardin des Plantes, included a lion, two ostriches, three gazelles, and a "mouton à manchettes," a variety of Barbary sheep hitherto unknown in Europe. The press had little difficulty in recasting the gift-giving in an Arabesque mode: "Once the descendents of Moorish kings brought diamonds and perfumes," commented L'Illustration. "Today the son of the desert bestows on us lions and gazelles. "60


最華麗的禮物是給國王的: 在離開巴黎之前,Ash'ash 在杜伊勒利宮舉行的儀式上移交了六匹阿拉伯馬和一隊野生動物。這些動物將被送往植物園,其中包括一頭獅子、兩隻駝鳥、三隻瞪羚和一隻 「mouton à manchettes」,一種迄今為止在歐洲還不為人所知的巴巴利羊。媒體不費吹灰之力就以阿拉伯式的方式重新描述了這次送禮活動: L'Illustration》評論道:"摩爾人的後代曾經帶來鑽石和香水。「今天,沙漠之子將獅子和瞪羚賜予我們。「60



 

Plate 4. Presentation of gifts from the Sultan to Louis-Philippe. From L'Illustration, 21 February 1846.


圖 4. 蘇丹向路易-菲利普贈送禮物。摘自 L'Illustration,1846 年 2 月 21 日。


 

Plate 5. A Barbary sheep given to the Jardin des Plantes. From L'Illustration, 21 February 1846.


圖片 5. 送給植物園的巴巴利羊。摘自 L'Illustration,1846 年 2 月 21 日。


註解:

46. L'Illustration, 3 January 1846, announcing his arrival, promised "the fullest and most curious details about the ambassador."

47. Ibid., to January 1846. Heroes of a romantic-tragic tale by François- Auguste-René Chateaubriand (1768-1848), author of Les aventures du der- nier Abencerage, set in fifteenth-century Spain (Paris, 1826). Hassan Me- kouar, Washington Irving and the Arabesque Tradition (Ph.D. dissertation, Brown University, 1977), pp. 30-31; El 1, s.v. "Abencerages."


48. A cap of felt material. In Arabic sarbūsh, which Dozy calls a "coif- fure distinctive des émirs." Dictionnaire détaillé des noms des vêtements chez les Arabes (Beirut, n.d.), pp. 222-24-

49. A hooded floor-length cape.

50. Leather slippers, usually yellow and pointed at the tips.

51. L'Illustration, 10 January 1846.


52. AAE/ADM/Voyage, no date. During his stay in Paris, Beaumier wrote regularly to de Chasteau in Tangier. Drafts of these letters and other miscellanea collected during the journey are found in this dossier. For aş- Şaffar's view of the day's activities, see pp. 190-194.

53. Ibid., Beaumier to de Chasteau, 8 February 1846.

54. Ash'äsh's letter of introduction is in 'Abd ar-Rahman Ibn Zaydän, Ithaf a'lam an-nās bi-jamal akhbar hadirat Miknās, 5 vols. (Rabat, 1929-33), 5:170; also TT 3:295. A French translation is in AAE/MDM 4/123-25. Ash'ash wrote to his brother about the audience (Watha'iq 2:119:21), and de Chasteau passed on news of events in Paris in a letter to Ibn Idris at the court. DAR 17570, 28 Muharram 1262/26 January 1846.


55. The letter from the Sultan to Louis-Philippe is dated 7 Muharram 1262/6 January 1846; written in aş-Şaffar's handwriting, it is AAE/MDM 4/145. The French incursions were near the River Nün in the south, on the trade route from Mogador to Timbuktu. AAE/MDM 9/297-99, "Mission d'exploration des côtes de Wadnoun (1843)"; Miège, Le Maroc 2:146-54.

56. AAE/MDM 4/155-60, Guizot to Ash'äsh, 14 February 1846.

57. Guizot, France under Louis-Philippe, p. 222.


58. Ibid., p. 204.

59. J. Caillé, "Un ambassadeur marocain à Paris (1845-1846)," Le monde Français 16, 49 (October 1949): 86; see also, by the same author, "Ambas- sades et missions marocaines en France," H-T 1, 1 (1960): 65-67. French historians have been unaware of aş-Şaffar's account, although J.-L. Miège suggested that the embassy of Ash'äsh has "not been sufficiently empha- sized." Le Maroc 2:205 note 1.



46. 1846 年 1 月 3 日,L'Illustration 宣佈了他的到來,並承諾 「提供大使最詳盡和最令人好奇的細節」。

47. 同上,至 1846 年 1 月。François- Auguste-René Chateaubriand (1768-1848) 所著浪漫悲劇故事中的英雄,他是 Les aventures du der- nier Abencerage 一書的作者,故事發生在十五世紀的西班牙(巴黎,1826 年)。Hassan Me- kouar, Washington Irving and the Arabesque Tradition (Ph.D. dissertation, Brown University, 1977), pp.


48. 毛氈材質的帽子。阿拉伯文 sarbūsh,Dozy 稱之為「coif- fure distinctive des émirs」。Dictionnaire détaillé des noms des vêtements chez les Arabes (Beirut, n.d.), pp.

49. 連帽落地披肩。

50. 皮拖鞋,通常為黃色,尖頭。

51. L'Illustration,1846 年 1 月 10 日。


52. AAE/ADM/Voyage,無日期。在巴黎逗留期間,Beaumier 定期寫信給丹吉爾的 de Chasteau。這些信件的草稿以及在旅途中收集的其他雜物都收錄在這份檔案中。有關 aş- Şaffar 對當天活動的看法,請參閱第 190-194 頁。

53. 同上,Beaumier 致 de Chasteau,1846 年 2 月 8 日。

54. Ash「äsh 的介紹信收錄於 」Abd ar-Rahman Ibn Zaydän, Ithaf a'lam an-nās bi-jamal akhbar hadirat Miknās, 5 vols. (Rabat, 1929-33), 5:170;另收錄於 TT 3:295。法文譯本收錄於 AAE/MDM 4/123-25。Ash「ash 在寫給他哥哥的信中提到了這次接見 (Watha」iq 2:119:21),de Chasteau 在寫給宮廷中的 Ibn Idris 的信中轉達了巴黎事件的消息。DAR 17570, 28 Muharram 1262/26 January 1846。


55. 苏丹写给路易-菲利普的信的日期是 1262 年 3 月 7 日/1846 年 1 月 6 日;信是用 aş-Şaffar 的笔迹写的,编号为 AAE/MDM 4/145。法國入侵的地點靠近南部的寧河 (River Nün),位於摩加多 (Mogador) 到廷巴克圖 (Timbuktu) 的貿易航線上。AAE/MDM 9/297-99, 「Mission d'exploration des côtes de Wadnoun (1843)」; Miège, Le Maroc 2:146-54.

56. AAE/MDM 4/155-60,Guizot 致 Ash'äsh,1846 年 2 月 14 日。

57. Guizot, Louis-Philippe 統治下的法國,第 222 頁。


58. 同上,第 204 頁。

59. J. Caillé, 「Un ambassadeur marocain à Paris (1845-1846),」 Le monde Français 16, 49 (October 1949): 86; see also, by the same author, 「Ambas- sades et missions marocaines en France,」 H-T 1, 1 (1960): 65-67. 法國歷史學家並不知道 aş-Şaffar 的描述,不過 J.-L. Miège 認為 Ash'äsh 的大使館「沒有被充分強調」。Le Maroc 2:205 註 1。


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