1-3梅泰奥雷号

 1-3The Météore

1-3梅泰奥雷号

The first week of November 1845, the steamer that was to take the mission to France arrived in Tangier. Originally equipped as a hos- pital ship, the Météore had seen continual service in the Algerian campaign, carrying fresh troops from Toulon to Oran and returning home with a load of sick and wounded. The French Consul made a tour of inspection and wrote an indignant letter to Foreign Minister Guizot in Paris. The ship was too small, he complained, and its commandant, Lieutenant Geoffroy, was a "subaltern"; both were inadequate for the mission. But grander vessels were in short supply because of the war, and nothing could be done. Roches set out for Gibraltar on a shopping trip to outfit the Météore properly. There he bought linens, furniture, hangings, and rugs to decorate the ambassador's suite in "oriental" style, with low tables and rugs on the floor. Despite their small size, it was reported that the apart- ments were made comfortable and pleasing. 39

1845 年 11 月的第一个星期，运送使团前往法国的汽船抵达丹吉尔。梅泰奥雷号最初是一艘医院船，在阿尔及利亚战役中一直服役，从土伦运送新兵到奥兰，然后载着伤病员返航。法国领事进行了一次巡视，并给巴黎的外交部长吉佐（Guizot）写了一封愤慨的信。他抱怨说，这艘船太小了，指挥官杰弗里（Geoffroy）中尉也只是个 “次官”，两者都不足以完成任务。但由于战争，更大型的船只供不应求，没有办法。为了给 “梅特奥雷 ”号配备合适的装备，罗切斯前往直布罗陀购物。他在那里购买了亚麻布、家具、挂饰和地毯，用矮桌和地毯将大使套房装饰成 “东方 ”风格。尽管面积不大，但据说房间布置得舒适宜人。39

Early in December 1845, the small group of Frenchmen who would accompany the Moroccan embassy to France assembled in Tangier. Their leader was Léon Roches, and with him was Auguste Beaumier, "a young man full of intelligence who speaks a bit of Arabic," who was secretary to de Chasteau. They left Tangier by sea on December 6th and reached Tetuan later the same day. On entering the town, they found the streets and rooftops jammed with curious onlookers. Ash'ash awaited them in the garden of his resi- dence, and favorably impressed the French party with his appear- ance. "His smile is agreeable and his manners distinguished; I think that the government of the King will be satisfied with the ambas- sador," wrote de Chasteau. 41

1845 年 12 月初，摩洛哥驻法使团的一小队法国人在丹吉尔集合。他们的领头人是莱昂-罗歇（Léon Roches），和他一起的还有奥古斯特-博米埃（Auguste Beaumier），“他是一个充满智慧的年轻人，会说一点阿拉伯语”，他是德-沙士图的秘书。他们于 12 月 6 日从海上离开丹吉尔，并于当天晚些时候抵达德图安。进城后，他们发现街道和屋顶上挤满了好奇的围观者。阿什阿什在自己住宅的花园里等着他们，他的出现给法国人留下了深刻印象。“de Chasteau 写道："他笑容可掬，举止出众；我认为国王政府会对这位大使感到满意。41

It soon became apparent that the Moroccans would not be ready to leave until the next day. During the night a violent wind blew up, and the Météore had to put to sea to ride out the storm. The bad weather prevented its return for several days. Finally, the morning of December 13th, the Moroccan suite assembled on shore and Commandant Goeffroy sent his longboats to fetch them. The land- ing craft were "invaded by a horde of Moroccans who positively wanted to come on board," Goeffroy wrote in his journal. Mean- while, others took touching leave of the ambassador: "One person kissed his robe, another his shoulder, while a third kissed his hands." With the Moroccans on board, the Météore weighed anchor. The entire first day, the ambassador and his party stood on the bridge gazing out to sea in quiet contemplation."

很快，摩洛哥人显然要到第二天才能离开。当晚，狂风大作，“Météore ”号不得不出海躲避风暴。恶劣的天气让它好几天无法返航。最后，12 月 13 日上午，摩洛哥人在岸上集合，戈弗罗伊司令派长艇去接他们。戈弗罗伊在日记中写道："陆地上的船只被一群摩洛哥人包围，他们强烈要求上船。与此同时，其他人则向大使致以感人的告别： “一个人亲吻他的长袍，另一个人亲吻他的肩膀，第三个人亲吻他的双手"。摩洛哥人上船后，“梅泰尔 ”号起锚了。“整个第一天，大使一行都站在舰桥上，静静地望着大海沉思”。

The passenger list of the Météore for this journey indicates that in addition to the ambassador, the Moroccan group included his father-in-law, Muhammad al-Libādī, an older gentleman who suf- fered severely from seasickness. Ash'ash showed great concern for his comfort throughout the journey. Then there was Ash'ash's brother-in-law, Hajj al-'Arabī al-'Attar, according to Goeffroy "a charming and gay fellow, forty to forty-two years old," who spoke Spanish and seemed to understand French. He had already made several trips to Gibraltar in addition to a pilgrimage to the Holy Places. The third person in the inner circle was Muhammad aş-Şaf- far, the "savant," aged about thirty-five. To Commandant Goef- froy, aş-Şaffär seemed "very reserved and much less affable than the others." Only these three had the privilege of taking meals with the ambassador. A fourth person, Ahmad al-'Ayat, was described as "the chief officer of the Ambassador's household." He was not al- lowed at the ambassador's table, but shared his apartment. In addi- tion, there were nine Moroccan soldiers who accompanied them as servants, 43

Météore 号这次旅行的乘客名单显示，除大使外，摩洛哥人还包括他的岳父 Muhammad al-Libādī，一位严重晕船的老先生。在整个旅途中，阿什什都非常关心他的舒适度。还有阿什阿什的妹夫哈吉-阿拉比-阿塔尔，据戈弗罗伊说，他 “是个迷人的同性恋者，四十到四十二岁”，会说西班牙语，似乎还懂法语。除了去圣地朝圣外，他还多次前往直布罗陀。内圈中的第三个人是穆罕默德-阿斯-沙夫-法尔（Muhammad aş-Şaf-far），他是个 “明白人”，大约三十五岁。在戈弗罗伊司令看来，阿什-沙法尔 “非常拘谨，远不如其他人那么和蔼可亲”。只有这三人有幸与大使共进晚餐。第四个人是艾哈迈德-阿亚特（Ahmad al-'Ayat），被描述为 “大使家的首席官员”。他并不与大使同桌，而是与大使同住一室。此外，还有九名摩洛哥士兵作为仆人陪同他们。

Once the initial strangeness had passed, life at sea settled into a routine. At mealtimes, Ash'ash and his intimates shared the cap- tain's table. Commandant Goeffroy planned adequate stores for his guests, but Ash'ash had seen to his own provisioning: "Two bulls, forty sheep, six hundred chickens eggs, vegetables, apples, and raisins in great profusion" had been put on board the Météore in Tetuan. Moreover, the Moroccans showed little enthusiasm for French cuisine, preferring instead to prepare their own,especially the famous dish called couscous, which they cannot do without and which is served to them every evening. They are very religious and rigorous observers of the Koran. They never drink wine, but do not appear scandalized when we take it in front of them, and perhaps would not be ill-disposed to give it a try... Someone once joked with the savant, saying that with all his knowledge, he should find a verse in the Ko- ran that permits drinking."

最初的陌生感过去后，海上生活便进入了常规。用餐时，阿什阿什和他的亲信们共享船长的餐桌。戈弗罗伊司令为他的客人准备了充足的食物，但阿什阿什自己也有自己的食物： “两头公牛、40 只绵羊、600 只鸡、鸡蛋、蔬菜、苹果和大量葡萄干 "已被送上位于德图安岛的 Météore 号。此外，摩洛哥人对法国菜并不热衷，他们更喜欢做自己的菜，尤其是著名的库斯库斯（Couscous）菜，他们离不开这道菜，每天晚上都要吃这道菜。他们非常虔诚，严格遵守《古兰经》。他们从不喝酒，但当我们在他们面前喝酒时，他们并不感到羞愧，或许他们也会尝试一下...... 有人曾跟这位专家开玩笑说，以他的学识，应该能在《古兰经》中找到允许喝酒的经文。

Apart from meals, there was little else to do. Trying his best to make the voyage pleasant, Goeffroy planned nightly entertainments such as fireworks to amuse his guests. By December 17th the coast of France had been reached, and on the 19th they arrived in Mar- seille, where they rested before leaving for Paris. The ambassador and his suite were invited to visit the city but Ash'ash refused, in- sisting on departing for the capital without delay. His reluctance to engage in tourism puzzled his French hosts, who had set notions about how "oriental" visitors should behave. One of the Frenchmen explained the ambassador's strange attitude as yet another manifes- tation of Muslim religious zeal: "Like all Muslims, he understands that his first duty on arriving in a country is to present himself to the sovereign, who is, in their eyes, the unique and absolute master of his subjects."43

除了吃饭，他几乎无事可做。戈弗罗伊尽力让航行变得愉快，他计划每晚放烟花等娱乐活动来逗客人开心。12 月 17 日，他们到达了法国海岸，19 日抵达马赛，在那里休整后前往巴黎。大使和他的随从被邀请参观巴黎，但阿什阿什拒绝了，他坚持立即启程前往首都。他不愿意参加旅游活动，这让法国主人感到困惑，因为他们对 “东方 ”游客的行为有一套固定的观念。其中一位法国人解释说，大使的奇怪态度是穆斯林宗教热情的另一种表现： “和所有穆斯林一样，他明白自己到达一个国家的首要职责是向君主报到，在他们眼中，君主是臣民独一无二的绝对主人。

They left Marseille on December 21st, traveling overland by coach along the route northward through the valley of the Rhône, and on the 27th they arrived in Orléans, where they spent the night before entering Paris. The next morning, the fifteenth since their departure from Tetuan, they took a special train from Orléans to Paris, the first documented journey by rail made by Moroccans. Ar- riving in Paris at midday, they were taken directly to lodgings pre- pared for them at 66, avenue des Champs-Elysées.

他们于 12 月 21 日离开马赛，乘坐长途汽车沿罗纳河谷北上，27 日抵达奥尔良，在那里过夜后进入巴黎。第二天早上，也就是他们离开德图恩后的第 15 天，他们乘坐专列从奥尔良前往巴黎，这是摩洛哥人第一次有记录的铁路旅行。中午抵达巴黎后，他们被直接送到香榭丽舍大街 66 号为他们预先准备好的住所。

 

Plate 3. The house of Governor Ash'ash at the port of Martil. Watercolor by Lt. Bellaire. Angus collection, Old American Legation, Tangier

圖 3. 總督 Ash'ash 在 Martil 港口的房子。Bellaire 中校的水彩畫。安格斯收藏，丹吉爾舊美國公使館

註解：

38. AAE/CPM 15/52-55, de Chasteau to Guizot, 5 November 1845.

39. AAE/CPM 15/68-69, Roches to Guizot, 13 November 1845; AN/ MM/BB4-642, 1846, "Missions particulières, Météore, Mission à Tanger," report of Commandant Goeffroy (unpaged). Aş-Şaffar's impressions of the sea voyage are found on pp. 85-86; see illustration, p. 80.

40. Born in 1822 in Marseille, he studied Arabic and became the private secretary of the French consul de Chasteau in 1839. After the embassy, he spent most of his diplomatic career in Morocco, serving as vice-consul in Rabat and consul in Mogador, where he died in 1876. He had scholarly interests (see AAE/MDM 4/209-22), wrote articles for the Bulletin de la Société de Géographie, and translated into French the Al-anis al-mutrib bi-rawd al-qirtās by Ibn Abi Zar' (d. 1325), a history of Fes. AAE, Personal Dossier, "Beaumier." See also J. Caillé, "Auguste Beaumier: Consul de France au Maroc," Hesp. 37 (1950): 53-95. 41. AAE/CPM 15/189-93, de Chasteau to Guizot, 12 December 1845.

42. AN/MM/BB4-642, report of Goeffroy. APT/2C201/Journal du bord, Météore, 13 December 1845.

43. They were, according to the quaint spelling of the passenger list of the Météore: Abbou el-Aattitar, Ahmad el-Zghal, Hajj Ahmed el-Yakoubi, el-Tahir Brioul, Abu el-Salem el-Amri, Mohammed el-Kerassi, Hadj Abd el-Rahman Choulon, Mohammed Elou el-Dressi, and Mohammed Mokh- tar, the last-named designated as an "interpreter." APT/IC 2754/1845,

Météore, Rôle d'equipage, "passagers à la table du commandant."

44. AN/MM/BB4-642, report of Goeffroy.

45. AAE/CPM 15/215-16, Pourcet to Guizot, 19 December 1845. Compare with the seventeenth-century Moroccan voyager to Spain, the Wazir al-Ghassani, who refused invitations to rest before he reached "the city to which we are going and the king to whom we are sent." Rihlat al- Wazir fi iftikak al-asir, trans. and ed. A. Bustani (Tangier, 1940), p. 9. Ref- erences are to the Arabic text.

38. AAE/CPM 15/52-55，de Chasteau 致 Guizot，1845 年 11 月 5 日。

39. AAE/CPM 15/68-69，Roches 致 Guizot，1845 年 11 月 13 日；AN/ MM/BB4-642，1846 年，「Missions particulières，Météore，Mission à Tanger，」Goeffroy 指挥官的报告（未分页）。Aş-Şaffar 對海上航行的印象見第 85-86 頁；見插圖，第 80 頁。

40. 1822 年出生于马赛，学习阿拉伯语，1839 年成为法国领事 de Chasteau 的私人秘书。在大使館工作後，他大部分的外交生涯都在摩洛哥渡過，曾任拉巴特副領事和摩加多領事，並於 1876 年在摩加多逝世。他對學術有興趣 (見 AAE/MDM 4/209-22)，曾為《地理學會通訊》撰寫文章，並將 Ibn Abi Zar' (d. 1325) 所著的 Al-anis al-mutrib bi-rawd al-qirtās（費斯史）翻譯成法文。AAE，個人檔案，「Beaumier」。另請參閱 J. Caillé，"Auguste Beaumier： 37 (1950)： 53-95. 41. AAE/CPM 15/189-93，de Chasteau 致 Guizot，1845 年 12 月 12 日。

42. AN/MM/BB4-642，Goeffroy 的報告。APT/2C201/Journal du bord，Météore，1845 年 12 月 13 日。

43. 根據 Météore 號乘客名單的古舊拼法，他們是 Abbou el-Aattitar、Ahmad el-Zghal、Hajj Ahmed el-Yakoubi、el-Tahir Brioul、Abu el-Salem el-Amri、Mohammed el-Kerassi、Hadj Abd el-Rahman Choulon、Mohammed Elou el-Dressi，以及 Mohammed Mokh-tar，最後一人被指定為 「口譯員」。APT/IC 2754/1845、

Météore，Rôle d'equipage，「passagers à la table du commandant」。

44. AN/MM/BB4-642，Goeffroy 的報告。

45. AAE/CPM 15/215-16，Pourcet 致 Guizot，1845 年 12 月 19 日。與十七世紀前往西班牙的摩洛哥航海家 Wazir al-Ghassani 相比，他在抵達「我們要去的城市和我們被派去的國王」之前，拒絕了休息的邀請。Rihlat al- Wazir fi iftikak al-asir, trans. A. Bustani (Tangier, 1940), p. 9。參考阿拉伯文本。