3、THE CITY OF PARIS
3、巴黎市
3-1 PARIS
And everything about it. What we saw with our own eyes or learned by hearsay, including some words on the manners and cus- toms of the French and the state of their affairs.
以及关于它的一切。 我们亲眼所见或道听途说的一切，包括一些关于法国人的礼仪和风俗以及他们的状况的文字。
You should know that this city is the seat of government of the land of the French, the mother of its cities, the throne of its king- dom, the abode of its great men, the source of its laws, the home of its learning and sciences. The [French] glory in its name and aspire to live there, while imitating its inhabitants in their behavior, re- fined manners, and cultured way of life.
你们应该知道，这座城市是法兰西的政府所在地，是法兰西城市之母，是法兰西国王的宝座，是法兰西伟人的居所，是法兰西法律的渊源，是法兰西学术和科学的发源地。 法国人]以它的名字为荣，向往在那里生活，同时模仿那里居民的行为举止、讲究礼仪和有教养的生活方式。
It is an enormous city, one of the greatest cities in those parts, just as Constantinople is for the Muslims, to which it may be com- pared; some say its distance around is forty-eight miles. Others among its inhabitants told me it takes twenty-seven hours to cross it on foot, and someone else told me that its circumference is twenty-one miles. Rifa'a Effendi says in his voyage that its circum- ference is seven parasangs, and he stayed there about five years.' It is situated at forty-nine degrees and fifty minutes in the northern direction [from the equator] and is therefore very cold. Places shielded by walls that face south never see the sun in winter. The clouds are endless in that season and the sun is a rarity, coming out perhaps one day a month.
它是一座巨大的城市，是这些地区最伟大的城市之一，就像君士坦丁堡对穆斯林的意义一样，可以与之相比；有人说它周围的距离是四十八英里。 居民中还有人告诉我，步行穿越它需要二十七个小时，还有人告诉我，它的周长是二十一英里。 Rifa'a Effendi 在他的航行中说，它的周长是 7 个 parasangs，他在那里呆了大约五年。 它位于[赤道]偏北 49 度 50 分，因此非常寒冷。 有城墙遮挡、坐北朝南的地方，冬天永远见不到太阳。 在那个季节，云层无边无际，太阳非常罕见，一个月才出来一天。
It is a city overflowing with people. Compared to the other cities of France, it is like a market day in our country compared with days on which there is no market. Alongside it, you would consider other places empty, even though they may be filled with people. We heard from the lips of more than one of them that it has a million [inhabitants], and that accounting does not seem strange to one who has been there. Anyone who is born or dies there, or comes there or departs, is recorded in a register-a ceaseless and perpetual task that is practiced everywhere in the land of Rüm.
这是一座人山人海的城市。 与法国其他城市相比，它就像我们国家的集市日与没有集市的日子相比。 与之相比，你会觉得其他地方空荡荡的，尽管那里可能挤满了人。 我们不止一次从他们口中得知，那里有一百万[居民]，对于去过那里的人来说，这个数字并不陌生。 在那里出生或死亡、到来或离开的人都会被登记在册--在鲁姆大陆上，到处都在进行着这项永无止境的工作。
Paris has a fortified wall of recent origin, for it did not have one in the old days. It can be seen from the outside but not from within, where it is completely covered up with earth and rubble. It is sur- rounded by a very deep and wide trench, and at its top are places for cannon. The wall is at some distance from the dwellings, leaving an open space between for more building so that the city can grow. There are [openings but] no gates in the wall, as there are in other cities. If you enter within the walls and reach the place where the houses begin, you will find iron gates flanked on both sides by rail- ings; no one can enter except through such a gate. Soldiers and guards are posted there, inspecting everyone who comes or goes, making sure that they pay the taxes imposed by the city on certain goods as they enter or leave. Opposite this gate is a bureau (dīwān) for the tax collectors, found at every entrance to the city. I was not able to verify which goods are taxed and which are not, except that flour was exempt but meat was not, for slaughtering is done outside the city. The highest taxes are paid on wine. There is even a separate customs bureau for it, with storerooms set aside for keeping the barrels, for wine is a necessity of life there.
巴黎的城墙是最近才修建的，因为以前没有。 从外面可以看到它，但从里面却看不到，因为它已被泥土和瓦砾完全覆盖。 城墙周围有一条很深很宽的壕沟，壕沟顶端有放置大炮的地方。 城墙离民居有一定距离，中间留出空地，以便修建更多的建筑，使城市得以发展。 城墙上有[开口，但]没有城门，其他城市也是如此。 如果你进入城墙内，到达房屋开始的地方，你会发现两侧有栏杆的铁门；除非通过这样的门，否则任何人都无法进入。 士兵和卫兵驻守在那里，检查来往的每个人，确保他们在进出时缴纳城市对某些商品征收的税款。 城门对面是征税官的办公室（dīwān），每个城市入口处都有这个办公室。 我无法核实哪些商品需要缴税，哪些不需要，只知道面粉可以免税，但肉类不能，因为屠宰是在城外进行的。 葡萄酒的税率最高。 甚至还有一个单独的海关局，专门用来存放酒桶，因为酒是那里的生活必需品。
The taxes which they collect on goods entering the city do not go into the coffers of the state, but are destined for municipal improvements such as repairing the roadways and lighting the street- lamps, which are found in every town but most of all in Paris, where it is said there are more than a hundred thousand of them. They are set up on tall wooden posts in orderly rows of equal height. Standing at the end of a row and looking down it, you see an endless line stretched out as far as the eye can see, not one out of place or taller than the next; and if you stand in an open place on a dark, cloudless night, especially near the river, they look just like the stars, a truly marvelous sight. Taxes also support the hospitals for the sick, schools for the children of the poor, and other good works.
他们对进城货物征收的税款并不上缴国库，而是用于市政建设，如修缮道路和点亮路灯，路灯在每个城市都有，但巴黎最多，据说有十几万盏。 路灯安装在高高的木柱上，有序地排成等高的一排。 如果你在万里无云的黑夜站在空旷的地方，尤其是在河边，它们看起来就像星星一样，真是令人叹为观止。 税收还支持了医院为病人服务、学校为穷人的孩子服务以及其他慈善事业。
Surrounding Paris and a short distance away are heavily fortified strongholds built to protect the city, garrisoned by soldiers and bris- tling with cannon. The artillerymen live there in many small houses with their weapons and personal belongings. There are also storerooms of every size for weaponry such as swords, muskets, bayonets, helmets and armor, and the like, all clean and in the best condition, neatly stored in rows and heaps and straight lines, each according to its own type. Also within these fortresses are stables for the horses which pull the cannons and their equipment. Each stable has many workers who attend to taking care of them. The horses are tied up by their heads, not by their feet; each has a bridle made of leather, with two chains on each side of the head ending in a wooden ball. They slip the chains through a ring pounded into the wall facing the horse, and that ball restrains him. They lay down straw for each horse, but if he urinates or drops dung on it just two or three times, they change it for clean. At the entrance to the stable is a board on which the rules of conduct for the horses and the quan- tity of fodder [to be given them] are written, along with other mat- ters relating to their upkeep. Every horse has its own special name, which is written on a small board affixed to the front [of the stall]. They separate one horse from another with a heavy piece of wood hanging down inside. If the horse kicks it, it moves; for if it were fixed to the ground, it would splinter with the blow.
巴黎周围不远处是为保护城市而修建的重兵把守的要塞，驻扎着士兵和大炮。 炮兵们带着武器和个人物品，住在许多小房子里。 此外，还有大大小小的武器储藏室，用于存放刀剑、火枪、刺刀、头盔和盔甲等武器装备，所有这些武器装备都干净整洁，处于最佳状态，整齐地摆放在一排排、一堆堆和一条条直线上，每种武器装备都有自己的类型。 这些要塞内还有马厩，供拉动大炮及其装备的马匹使用。 每个马厩都有许多工人负责照料它们。 每匹马都有一个皮制的缰绳，马头两侧各有两条铁链，铁链的末端是一个木球。 他们把铁链穿过一个打在马头对面墙上的圆环，木球就会束缚住马。 他们为每匹马铺上稻草，但如果马在稻草上撒尿或掉粪两三次，他们就会把稻草换成干净的。 马厩入口处有一块木板，上面写着马的行为规则和饲料的数量，以及其他有关马匹养护的信息。 每匹马都有自己的名字，写在贴在（马厩）前面的小木板上。 他们用一块沉重的木头将一匹马和另一匹马分开，木头垂在马厩内。 如果马踢它，它就会动；因为如果它固定在地上，就会被踢得四分五裂。
Inside this stronghold are wagons and mountings for pulling cannons, and all the materials needed for them, such as gunpowder and balls and so on. There are many types of cannon, both large and small, arranged according to their size and type of shot. All of it is pleasing to the eye because of the brightness and neat arrangement; they looked as if they had just come from the foundry. There is also a storeroom for weapons, as I mentioned, and the workers are dili- gent in keeping them well oiled and in working order. A larger storeroom contained equipment for the horses, such as saddles, reins, ropes, chains, and so on. It went on as far as the eye could see. Each fortress is surrounded by a huge wall, like the wall of a city, and in front is a ditch crossed by a drawbridge; indeed, each fortress is like a city in itself.
据点内有拉大炮的马车和支架，以及大炮所需的所有材料，如火药和炮弹等。 大炮种类繁多，有大有小，按照大小和炮弹种类排列。 所有这些都让人赏心悦目，因为它们光亮整齐，看起来就像刚从铸造厂出来一样。 正如我提到的，这里还有一个武器储藏室，工人们勤勤恳恳地为武器上好油，使其保持良好的工作状态。 还有一个更大的储藏室，里面有马鞍、缰绳、绳索、链条等马匹用具。 目之所及，无不如此。 每个堡垒都有一道巨大的城墙环绕，就像一座城市的城墙，前面是一条由吊桥横跨的壕沟；实际上，每个堡垒本身就像一座城市。
The city of Paris is divided in two by a large river called the Seine, which flows through it from east to west. Crossing it are seventeen bridges of various types. Some are built with stone arches, and these are the majority, while others are made of iron arches, and between the arches and the flat part of the bridge are huge circles made up of large and small [pieces] of iron on which the flat part rests. Yet an- other type, which is truly amazing, hangs from above and is not resting on arches, like the others, but rests on the sides of the river. They build a solid structure [on each bank of the river] like a pillar with an arch in its middle to allow passage through it; and some- times; if the river is exceptionally wide, they add another in the middle. The roadway is made of sturdy wooden boards resting on tron bars. Those bars are held in place by iron rods standing along the sides of the bridge. The rods enter the sides [of the bridge] as far as the lower edge of those boards, reaching the iron bars which sup- port them, and are then nailed to them. Those standing iron rods are held from above by other huge rods stretching along the edges of the bridge from beginning to end, joining it with the structures already mentioned at the sides; and that is how the bridge is held together. When you cross over this kind of bridge you feel it trem- ble, because it is not resting on anything below.
一条名为塞纳河的大河将巴黎市一分为二，从东向西流过。 塞纳河上横跨着 17 座不同类型的桥梁。 有些是石拱桥，占大多数；有些是铁拱桥，在拱桥和桥面之间有一个巨大的圆圈，圆圈由大大小小的铁片组成，桥面就架在铁片上。 还有一种桥非常奇妙，它不是像其他桥一样架在拱桥上，而是架在河的两侧。 他们[在河的两岸]建造一个坚固的结构，就像一根柱子，中间有一个拱门，以便通过；有时，如果河面特别宽，他们就在中间再加一个拱门。 路面是用坚固的木板铺成的，木板放在铁栏杆上。 铁杆由桥两侧的铁棍固定。 铁杆从木板的下边缘进入桥的两侧，到达支撑木板的铁条，然后钉在铁条上。 这些竖立的铁杆由其他巨大的铁杆从上面固定，这些铁杆沿着桥的边缘从头延伸到尾，与前面提到的两侧结构连接在一起；这就是桥的固定方式。 当你从这种桥上走过时，你会感觉到它在颤抖，因为它并没有依靠下面的任何东西。
Another type of bridge is made entirely of wood but has iron railings along the sides to prevent passersby from falling into the river. One comes across [wooden bridges], but the other type [of stone or iron] are the majority. Carts and carriages are found on all the bridges, but on those of unusual design, which are the newer ones, they charge a toll until the costs of construction are fully re- covered. After that they are free like the others. Before they built these new bridges, the distance between the old bridges was often great, and they would cross the river by ferry, paying the small price of two coppers or so of their money for those on foot, and two or three times that for carriages and wagons. These are the types of bridges we saw in that city, and not once during our stay there did we see anyone fording a river either on foot or on horse- back.
还有一种桥完全是木头做的，但两边有铁栏杆，防止路人掉进河里。 人们会遇到[木桥]，但其他类型的[石桥或铁桥]占大多数。 所有的桥上都有马车，但那些设计独特的桥，也就是较新的桥，要收取过桥费，直到建筑成本全部收回为止。 之后，它们就和其他桥梁一样免费了。 在修建这些新桥之前，老桥之间的距离往往很远，他们会乘坐渡船过河，步行者只需支付两个铜板左右的小钱，而马车和货车则需支付两三倍的钱。 这就是我们在这座城市看到的桥梁类型，在我们逗留期间，没有一次看到有人步行或骑马渡河。
In the middle of this river is an island which was the original Paris in ancient times, and they call it by a name that means "ancient Paris."" On it is a very old church, the largest and most ancient in Paris. The river is crowded with boats of all sizes, including many steamers. One also sees great houses made of wood, shaped like large boats, except that they are covered with a roof. Some of them are open on the side facing the river, and are anchored in one spot. They are for washing clothes, and they rise and fall with the river just like boats.
在这条河流的中央有一个小岛，它就是古代巴黎的原址，人们称它为 "古巴黎"。 岛上有一座非常古老的教堂，是巴黎最大最古老的教堂。 河上挤满了大大小小的船只，包括许多汽船。 人们还能看到木头做的大房子，形状像大船，只是上面盖着屋顶。 有些房子朝河的一面是敞开的，停在一个地方。 这些房子是用来洗衣服的，就像船一样随着河水起伏。
There is another kind of structure made of wood, which is their públic bathhouse. Inside it are small rooms that are enclosed, each with a large tub that may be filled with hot or cold water, or both to make it tepid. Whoever wants to bathe enters there, for it is their hammam; they do not have a hammām like ours. Other large bathhouses are found in the residential quarters and in the market- places.
还有一种木制建筑是公共澡堂。 里面有一些封闭的小房间，每个房间都有一个大浴盆，浴盆里可以注入热水或冷水，也可以同时注入热水和冷水，使水变得温热。 想洗澡的人都可以进去，因为这是他们的浴室；他们没有像我们这样的浴室。 在居民区和集市上还有其他一些大澡堂。
The tub inside the bathing room may be of copper, but usually it is of marble and large enough to permit a person to more or less stretch out in it, legs and all. Two pipes lead into it, one for cold and the other for hot, and each has a spigot that may be opened or shut. In the bottom of the tub is an outlet for the water, which also opens and shuts. When the bather is ready to enter, they open the two spigots for him until the tub is filled, and the water is to his liking. Then he enters and undresses, and hangs his clothes on a hook. After locking the door, he gets into the tub and lies down in it. If the water is tepid, that is fine; but if it is burning hot, he may add cold, or if cold, then hot. When the water gets dirty, he may change it by opening the outlet at the bottom and letting it run out. After rinsing the tub, he closes the outlet and opens the two spigots again; and so on until he is fully satisfied, and gets out.
浴室内的浴缸可能是铜制的，但通常是大理石的，其大小足以让人或多或少地伸展双腿。 有两根水管通向浴缸，一根用于冷水，另一根用于热水，每根水管都有一个可以打开或关闭的水龙头。 浴缸底部有一个出水口，也可以打开或关闭。 当沐浴者准备进入浴缸时，他们会为他打开两个水龙头，直到浴缸装满水，水温符合他的要求。 然后，他进去脱掉衣服，把衣服挂在钩子上。 锁上门后，他进入浴缸，躺在里面。 如果水温不高，那也没关系；但如果水很烫，他可以加点冷水，如果是冷水，那就加点热水。 当水变脏时，他可以打开底部的出水口，让水流出来。 冲洗完浴缸后，他关闭出水口，再打开两个水龙头；如此反复，直到他完全满意为止，然后离开。
This room is lit by a large glass window covered on the inside by a thin curtain, which lets in the light while keeping out unwanted observers. Moreover, if you wish to take a bath in your own room, you may do so. They bring the tub along with containers of hot water and towels for drying, and one can wash in one's own room. But in this case it is not possible to change the bathwater when it is dirty, because there is no outlet at the bottom, and in their rooms they have no drains or holes for throwing out water. In fact, it was difficult for us to perform our ritual ablutions for that very reason."
房间里有一扇大玻璃窗，窗户内侧有一层薄薄的帘子，既能透光，又能遮挡不速之客。 此外，如果您想在自己的房间里洗澡，也可以这样做。 他们会把浴缸和装热水的容器以及擦干用的毛巾一起送来，这样就可以在自己的房间里洗澡了。 但在这种情况下，如果洗澡水脏了就无法更换，因为底部没有出水口，而且他们的房间里也没有排水沟或泼水孔。 事实上，正是因为这个原因，我们很难进行礼仪洗浴"。
We had to use two vessels, one for the [clean] water, and the other for the unclean. All of this was done with much difficulty and great contortions, due to the small size of the vessels and because of the rugs on the floor, which would have been spoiled if water had dripped on them. Indeed, they have no need for pouring out water [on the floor] and are ill-equipped for it.
我们不得不使用两个容器，一个盛[干净]的水，另一个盛不干净的水。 所有这一切都做得非常艰难和费力，因为容器太小，而且地板上铺着地毯，如果水滴在地毯上，地毯就会被弄脏。 事实上，他们根本不需要倒水，也没有倒水的设备。
Whatever is collected in the room in the way of dirty water or urine or the like, they carry off in containers. Urine is removed in receptacles intended for it, and performing one's bodily functions is also done into a vessel. As for urinating, it is done in something like a little milking jug, while the other is done into a container found inside a covered box. On top of it is another clean container, with a hole at its bottom that opens and shuts by itself. If you put something in the upper vessel, it immediately drops through the opening into the lower one, and the hole closes again. A small amount of water from the box enters the upper vessel with suffi- cient force to clean it. When you are finished, you close the whole thing up, thus preventing foul odors from escaping even when it is full. The servants then take it out, clean it, and return it to its place.
房间里收集到的脏水、尿液或类似的东西，他们都会用容器装走。 尿液要放在专门的容器中清除，做身体活动时也要放在容器中。 至于小便，则是用一个类似挤奶壶的东西来完成，而另一种则是用一个有盖的盒子里的容器来完成。 上面还有一个干净的容器，底部有一个可以自动开合的孔。 如果你在上面的容器里放了什么东西，它就会立刻从开口处掉进下面的容器里，然后孔又会关上。 盒子里的少量水进入上层容器，足以清洗干净。 清洗完毕后，将整个容器盖上，这样即使容器满了，也不会有臭味散发出来。 然后，仆人将其取出，清洗干净，放回原处。
Along its entire length within the city, the banks of the river are built from large hewn rocks reaching up to the level of the road, about half the height of a man. Along its banks are wide streets bordered by shops and houses, whose windows overlook the river. The streets of Paris are paved with rough stones in the middle and smooth ones at the sides. The middle is for carts and wagons and the sides are for pedestrians. Its roadways are very wide and open to the sky, without any overhanging balconies or coverings. The houses are lit by the windows, which face onto the streets and squares. If the streets were covered over, the houses would be dark.
城内的整个河岸都是用凿成的大石头砌成的，直达路面，大约有半人高。 沿河两岸是宽阔的街道，街道两旁是商店和房屋，从窗户可以俯瞰河景。 巴黎的街道中间用粗糙的石头铺成，两边用光滑的石头铺成。 中间供马车通行，两侧供行人通行。 街道非常宽阔，通向天空，没有任何悬挑的阳台或遮盖物。 房屋的窗户朝向街道和广场，可以采光。 如果街道被覆盖，房屋就会变得漆黑一片。
There is a vast number of carts and carriages in this city. They say that there are 13,000 of them, with 8,000 for hire and the rest privately owned. Indeed, the number of horses that draw them is reputed to be about 48,000. All of these carriages are very clean, shining, and well built, so that one would think that all of them are brand-new. For that matter, all the horses of this city are well fed, with glistening coats, sturdy bodies, and fine shapes. We did not see carriages or horses like those [of Paris] in any other place. To sum up, in comparison with the rest of what we saw of the land of the French, Paris is like a center of civilization compared with the coun- tryside, and other cities seem rustic beside her.
这座城市有大量的马车。 据说有 13000 辆，其中 8000 辆出租，其余为私人所有。 事实上，拉车的马匹据说约有 48000 匹。 所有这些马车都非常整洁、光亮、精良，让人以为它们都是全新的。 此外，这座城市的所有马匹都喂养得很好，毛色光亮、体格健壮、体形优美。 我们在其他任何地方都没有看到过像巴黎这样的马车和马匹。 总之，与我们在法国看到的其他地方相比，巴黎就像一个文明的中心，而其他城市在她身边则显得土里土气。
People of wealth and importance do not walk on foot, but are almost always in carriages. This is for two reasonsi first, their natural haughtiness and love of display keeps them from walking except as a means of relaxation and taking in the sights; and second,the enormous size of the city makes traveling from one place to another there like going on a journey. For these two reasons you will see long wagons carrying many people, with "This one goes to such-and-such quarter" written on it, so that whoever wants to go there may ride, even if he is a servant or the like. Along the way,some get off while others get on. 's The uproar of the carriages and the wagons does not cease day or night. The glass in the windows is perpetually rattling and shaking from the terrible din. For days sleep eluded us because of the frightful roar that never stopped. It felt as though we were standing at the seashore or next to a turning grindstone.
有钱有势的人不会步行，几乎都是乘坐马车。 这有两个原因：第一，他们天生的傲慢和爱炫耀的性格使他们除了作为一种放松和观赏风景的手段外，不愿意步行；第二，城市的巨大规模使他们从一个地方走到另一个地方就像在旅行。 由于这两个原因，你会看到载着许多人的长长的马车，上面写着 "此车去某某区"，这样，谁想去那里，即使是仆人或类似的人，也可以乘坐。 一路上，有人下车，有人上车。 马车的喧闹声不分昼夜。 窗户上的玻璃总是被可怕的噪音震得嘎嘎作响，摇摇欲坠。 由于可怕的轰鸣声从未停止过，我们一连几天都无法入睡。 我们仿佛站在海边，又仿佛站在转动的磨盘旁。
All of the marketplaces and pass passageways are filled with carts for hire. As for the marketplaces, they are so numerous that you could say the whole city is a süq, because all their markets are inside shops. It is their custom when building to make the ground floor into shops, with dwellings above. In most places you will find shops right next to one another, but occasionally one will stand alone. It is seldom that you enter into a narrow lane and do not find a few shops. All of them are of a single design with respect to their deco- ration, doors, and windows; those which sell silk and jewelry ap- pear the same as those selling groceries and vegetables. All of them are close to the street, not raised above it as ours are. They decorate them by lining the walls with bright mirrors that reflect everything in the shop, so that you have no idea where the shop begins or ends, or whether it is small or large. Nor does a marketplace specialize in one certain thing. You will find a butcher shop or a fish market next door to a clothing store or a jeweler's shop. Each of them is of equal cleanliness. In the butcher shops there are no bones or blood or dis- gusting odors, and the meat can stay there for days without spoiling or smelling rotten.
所有的集市和通道都停满了出租马车。 至于集市，它们是如此之多，以至于可以说整座城市都是一个 "苏克"（süq），因为他们所有的集市都在商店里。 按照他们的习惯，建筑时底层是商店，上面是住宅。 在大多数地方，你会发现商店紧挨着商店，但偶尔也会有单独的商店。 走进一条狭窄的小巷，很少会找不到几家店铺。 所有商店的装饰、门窗都是统一设计的；卖丝绸和珠宝的商店与卖杂货和蔬菜的商店一样。 所有店铺都紧靠街道，不像我们的店铺那样高高在上。 它们用明亮的镜子装饰墙壁，镜子会反射出店里的一切，这样你就不知道这家店从哪里开始，在哪里结束，也不知道它是大是小。 集市也不专卖某一种东西。 在服装店或珠宝店的隔壁，你会看到肉铺或鱼市。 每家店都同样干净整洁。 肉铺里没有骨头、血迹或异味，肉可以在那里放上好几天而不会变质或腐臭。
One of their most renowned markets, where very expensive goods are sold, is called the "Royal."" It is formed by two squares around which there are more than four hundred shops. In the middle are trees and a large fountain; above the shops is a pal- ace of the same name, which they say belongs to the present Sul- tan. The very finest things are sold here, such as jewelry, precious stones, gold, silver, and silken cloth, and there are cafés here too.
其中一个最有名的市场叫做 "皇家市场"，这里出售非常昂贵的商品。 它由两个广场组成，周围有四百多家商店。 中间是树木和一个大喷泉；商店上方是一个同名的宫殿，据说是现在的苏尔坦的。 这里出售最精美的物品，如珠宝、宝石、金银和丝绸，还有咖啡馆。
Another market is called the Boulevard." Everything is sold here, and it is very long. It took us more than an hour to travel its length in a carriage. Another market nearby is called the Rue Montmartre," where there is a gathering place for businessmen called "the Bourse." The largest shop in Paris is located there- it is a [whole] marketplace in itself. 19 All kinds of silk, wool, and cotton clothing are sold there, along with other kinds of cloth, both sewn and unsewn. It has one hundred forty employees. The owner of the shop stands by the door to welcome customers and find out what they are looking for. Then he leads the customer to the right place, and the employees assist him in finding what he needs.
另一个市场叫林荫大道"。 这里什么都卖，而且很长。 我们坐马车走了一个多小时才走完。 附近的另一个市场叫蒙马特街，"那里有一个商人聚集的地方，叫 "交易所"。 巴黎最大的商店就在那里，它本身就是一个[完整的]集市。 19 这里出售各种丝绸、羊毛和棉布服装，以及其他缝制和未缝制的布匹。 店里有 140 名员工。 店主站在门口迎接顾客，了解他们想要什么。 然后，他把顾客领到正确的地方，员工们会帮助顾客找到他所需要的东西。
Everything has a price written on it, and there is no need to bar- gain or haggle. When the customer decides on something, the em- ployee accompanies him with the article to the door of the shop. There four clerks keep the accounts and receive payment. The em- ployee leaves the buyer with the clerks, who show him the account, take his money, and make the correct change. We went there more than once and always found these clerks overwhelmed with doing the accounts and taking money from customers. They say that ev- ery day about 12,000 riyāls worth [of goods] are sold there. It has many sections, each with its own type of goods, and at night one hundred seventy lamps are needed to illuminate it.
所有东西都写有价格，无需讨价还价。 顾客选好东西后，店员会陪他一起把东西送到店门口。 四名店员在那里记账和收款。 员工把买主交给店员，店员会给他看账目，收下他的钱，并找好零钱。 我们不止一次去那里，总是发现这些店员忙得不可开交，既要记账，又要收顾客的钱。 据说，那里每天要卖出价值约 12 000 里亚尔的[商品]。 它有许多分区，每个分区都有自己的商品种类，晚上需要 170 盏灯来照明。
Goods in this city are very expensive because of the wealth of its inhabitants and the high quality of the merchandise. The franc there is equal to one-fifth of a riyal of our money, and is like copper money is for us. Their five-franc piece is like our dirham. These two coins form the major part of their coinage. Most accounts there are in francs, as accounts with us are in mithqāls, and if they do it in something else, like riyāls, they go over it twice. For gold coins they have small dīnārs, each one equal to four of their riyāls. Their small money is copper; there are twenty in a franc, and they are called sols.
这个城市的商品非常昂贵，因为这里的居民很富有，商品质量很高。 那里的法郎相当于我们货币里亚尔的五分之一，对我们来说就像铜钱一样。 他们的五法郎就像我们的迪拉姆。 这两种硬币构成了他们硬币的主要部分。 他们的大部分账目都是用法郎记账，就像我们用米特卡尔记账一样，如果他们用其他货币记账，比如里亚尔，他们就会记上两遍。 他们的金币都是小面额的，每个面额相当于四个里亚尔。 他们的小钱是铜币；一法郎有二十个铜币，称为索尔。
Precious objects like pearls and gems are usually bought in shops that specialize in them. Another indication of their eagerness to sell their goods is that merchants write out papers mentioning their goods and their virtues, praising them so that people will want them. The price and the place are also mentioned. Then they affix these papers to walls where people pass by, or on the numerous little kiosks where they relieve themselves, or at the gates to the city so that whoever enters will see them, and in every place where people gather. They do not have secondhand shops (jūțiyāt) where a mid- dleman (simsar) does the selling, as we have.24
珍珠和宝石等贵重物品通常在专卖店购买。 商人们急于出售商品的另一个表现是，他们会撰写文书，提及他们的商品及其优点，对其大加赞美，以吸引人们购买。 此外，还提及价格和地点。 然后，他们把这些纸张贴在人们经过的墙壁上，或贴在他们解手的无数小亭子上，或贴在城门口，让进城的人都能看到，或贴在人们聚集的每一个地方。 他们没有像我们一样的二手店（jūțiyāt），由中间人（simsar）负责销售。
As for the types of houses found there, they are quite different from ours, for they do not have a courtyard, a ground floor, and upper stories, with large rooms and small ones, such as we have; rather, their courtyard is outside the house, where the carts and draft animals stand. As soon as you enter the gate, you climb the steps and see the rooms laid out story upon story until you reach the top. The rooms are called salons, and have very large windows which look out onto the street, the shops, and the squares. You will see one [window] shaped like an arch, clear like the others, but with an iron grating in front of it that is marvelously wrought. Behind the house there is usually a garden, and even if it is very small it will have water and plantings of some sort. In their gardens you never see fruit trees, grapevines, sweet-smelling flowers, or herbs like mint, basil, or marjoram, such as we have.
至于那里的房屋类型，与我们的大不相同，因为他们不像我们有庭院、底层和上层，有大房间和小房间；相反，他们的庭院在房屋外面，大车和牲口就停在那里。 一进大门，登上台阶，就能看到层层叠叠的房间，直到顶层。 这些房间被称为沙龙，有很大的窗户，可以看到外面的街道、商店和广场。 你会看到一扇形状像拱门的窗户，和其他窗户一样是透明的，但窗前有一个铁栅栏，锻造得非常精美。 房子后面通常有一个花园，即使很小，也会有水和一些植物。 在他们的花园里，你永远看不到果树、葡萄藤、香甜的花朵，也看不到像我们这样的薄荷、罗勒或马郁兰等香草。
Throughout the city in the shopping places are kiosks in the shape of round enclosures intended for urination. In the door- way is an iron plate with two outcroppings above the ground [to stand on] so that the user will not stain his clothes. They also urinate at the base of walls and in alleyways, which is not disgraceful in their opinion. However, they are diligent in cleaning the streets by sweeping them and sprinkling them with water.
在整个城市的购物场所，都有小卖部，形状像圆形围栏，供人小便。 门口有一块铁板，铁板上有两块凸出地面的地方[供人站立]，这样小便者就不会弄脏衣服。 他们还在墙根和巷子里小便，在他们看来这并不丢人。 不过，他们会勤于清扫街道并洒水。
In Paris there are places where people take walks, which is one of their forms of entertainment. A fellow takes the arm of his friend, man or woman, and together they go to one of the spots known for it. They stroll along, chatting and taking in the sights. Their idea of an outing is not eating or drinking, and certainly not sitting. One of their favorite promenades is a place called the Champs-Elysées, which is close by the Seine on the same bank as the royal palace; our lodgings were here too. Along its length are even rows of trees, and between them straight pathways. When the foliage appears, and the birds twitter in the lattice of branches above, it is a sight to behold. Here too are many cafés and places for spectacles such as the theater, and huge fountains with statues of human forms with water gushing from their mouths. They claim that these are the gods of water; they are holding fishes which also spurt out water. The water is in constant motion, and rises up in a single column. It is emptied out in cold weather because it would freeze.
巴黎有很多散步的地方，这也是人们的一种娱乐方式。 一个人挽着他的朋友（无论男女）的胳膊，一起前往其中一个著名景点。 他们一边漫步，一边聊天，一边欣赏风景。 他们眼中的郊游不是吃喝，当然也不是坐着。 他们最喜欢的长廊之一是一个叫香榭丽舍大街的地方，它靠近塞纳河，与皇宫同在一条河岸上；我们的住处也在这里。 香榭丽舍大街上树木成行，树与树之间是笔直的小路。 每当枝繁叶茂，鸟儿在树枝的格子间叽叽喳喳地鸣叫时，这里就是一道亮丽的风景线。 这里还有许多咖啡馆和剧院等观赏场所，以及巨大的喷泉，喷泉中的人形雕像口中喷水。 他们声称这些是水神；他们手持鱼，鱼也会喷水。 水在不停地流动，呈单一柱状上升。 在寒冷的天气里，水会被倒掉，因为它会结冰。
Not far from here is the garden of the Sultan, where people also go to promenade. 26 This garden is walled and its gates are guarded,but no one is kept from entering. A small section near the palace is reserved for the Sultan alone. In this garden there are many huge trees, planted as they do for shade, with open spots and chairs for resting surrounded by lush greenery. Whoever is wearied by walk- ing may sit, but they are usually women or old people. Here too are large fountains and cafés.
离这里不远的地方是苏丹的花园，人们也在那里散步。 26 这个花园有围墙，大门也有守卫，但没有人被阻止进入。 靠近宫殿的一小块地方只留给苏丹。 花园里有许多巨大的树木，这些树木是为了遮荫而种植的，花园里有空地和供休息的椅子，周围是郁郁葱葱的绿色植物。 走累了的人可以坐下，但通常是妇女或老人。 这里还有大型喷泉和咖啡馆。
Another of their diversions is the Sultan's park, where wild ani- mals of land and sea are found, both living and dead. They play tricks with the dead ones, making them look as if they were alive, so that you see a fish and there is no doubt in your mind that it has just emerged from the sea. The way they do this is by skinning it in one piece and then stuffing it with straw or the like, so that it looks like a fish, flesh and all. Then they lacquer it in such a way that the body is preserved. We saw innumerable creatures kept in this man- ner, everything from the tiniest to the biggest fish, from the small- est turtle to the most enormous crocodile, from the Sea of Rüm, the Indian Ocean, the Great Sea, and the Nile.
他们的另一个消遣场所是苏丹公园，那里有海陆野生动物，有活的，也有死的。 他们在死鱼身上做手脚，让它们看起来就像活的一样，这样你看到一条鱼，就会毫不怀疑它是刚从海里游出来的。 他们的做法是把鱼皮剥成一片一片的，然后用稻草或类似的东西塞进去，这样看起来就像一条鱼，肉和所有的东西都是。 然后，他们再用漆把鱼身涂上，这样鱼身就保存下来了。 我们在这里看到了无数的生物，从最小的鱼到最大的鱼，从最小的海龟到最巨大的鳄鱼，从吕姆海、印度洋、大海到尼罗河，应有尽有。
There were several kinds of crocodiles, those from the Indian Ocean being larger and more dreadful than those of the Nile. There was also a huge fish with a long toothed bill with two rows of teeth like a saw coming out of his mouth, and another which they claim was the kind that swallowed up Jonah, peace be upon him. Another had huge claws-I don't know its name and was suspended from the ceiling by an iron strap. The tiny fishes were so numerous that they could not be counted. So, too, the birds, gathered from every clime, many of them gorgeous and strange in appearance. One kind had bills on its wings, like those on its head. Each one was in its own room, even the tiny butterfly. There were also huge and awful serpents and vipers coiled around pieces of wood, terrifying to look at, some at least as thick as the thigh of a man. Some of the living animals were creatures that came from western lands, such as the animals of America (bilād mirika) and India, whose names I do not know.
鳄鱼有好几种，印度洋的鳄鱼比尼罗河的鳄鱼更大、更可怕。 还有一种巨大的鱼，长着长长的齿喙，嘴里长着两排像锯子一样的牙齿；还有一种鱼，他们声称就是吞掉约拿（愿主赐福之）的那种鱼。 还有一条长着巨大的爪子，我不知道它叫什么名字，它被一根铁带吊在天花板上。 小鱼多得数不清。 鸟类也是如此，它们来自各个地方，其中许多外形华丽奇特。 有一种鸟的翅膀上长着喙，就像它头上的喙一样。 每种鸟都有自己的房间，连小小的蝴蝶也不例外。 还有一些巨大可怕的蛇和毒蛇盘绕在木片上，令人望而生畏，有的至少有一个人的大腿那么粗。 一些活的动物是来自西方的生物，比如美洲（bilād mirika）和印度的动物，我不知道它们的名字。
Among the stuffed ones were the elephant-there were live ones too and the rhinoceros, which is a huge animal, smaller than an elephant, having a single great horn on its nose. Because of its weight the head is always lowered. They say that it can fight an elephant with its horn and overcome it. One of its characteristics, so they say, is that when the female is close to giving birth, the newborn sticks its head out from her opening and begins to graze on the tips of the foliage; when it is satisfied, it puts its head back into her belly. They say that no other animal will stay within a hun- dred parasangs of it in any direction, such is their dread of it. The wild ox, also stuffed, is there. It resembles the horse, except that its legs are covered with thick hair, and the bear, which is an animal capable of great speed. They have both kinds [of bears], the white and the black, and they claim that the white one is found on the frozen water in the Sea of Darkness. Also there were many lions and tigers, hyenas, wildcats, foxes, gazelles, horses, 29 and so on, all of them dead, but looking exactly as if they were alive.
毛绒玩具中有大象（也有活的）和犀牛，犀牛是一种体型巨大的动物，比大象小，鼻子上有一根独角。 由于重量大，它的头总是低着。 据说它能用角与大象搏斗，并战胜大象。 据说，它的一个特点是，当母马快要分娩时，新生儿会把头从母马的开口处伸出来，开始吃叶尖；当它吃饱后，就会把头缩回母马的肚子里。 他们说，无论从哪个方向看，其他动物都不会在离它一千米以内的地方逗留，因为他们非常害怕它。 野牛也在那里。 除了腿上长满厚厚的毛以外，它与马和熊都很相似，熊是一种速度极快的动物。 他们有两种熊，白色的和黑色的，他们声称白色的熊是在黑暗之海的冰水上发现的。 此外，还有许多狮子和老虎、鬣狗、野猫、狐狸、瞪羚、马、29 等等，它们都是死的，但看起来就像活的一样。
Among the live animals were the elephant, which is an enormous creature with a long trunk having its mouth at the base. With this trunk he grasps things and tosses them into his mouth. Despite the huge size of his body he has an understanding and gentleness toward his master. He was inside a huge iron cage, and behind him was another cage made of wood with a door. His master spoke to him, saying, "Open the door," and he did so by turning the handle with his trunk. Then his master told him to close it, and he did that too. One of the other spectators told me that in the theater there are two elephants that play together, understand each other, and respond to whoever calls to them. If something is given to them, they will re- turn it by grasping it in that trunk.
大象是一种巨大的动物，它有一根长长的躯干，躯干根部有嘴。 大象用这根躯干抓起东西扔进嘴里。 尽管体型巨大，但它对主人却很善解人意，很温柔。 它被关在一个巨大的铁笼子里，后面是另一个带门的木头笼子。 它的主人对它说："把门打开。"它用树干转动门把手，把门打开了。 然后主人让他把门关上，他也照做了。 还有一位观众告诉我，在剧院里有两头大象，它们一起玩耍，互相理解，谁叫它们，它们就回应谁。 如果有人给它们东西，它们会用那根躯干抓住东西重新转动。
They also have the giraffe there. 3º It is an animal with a wondrous shape. His forelegs are longer than his hind legs, and if you place something on the ground for him to eat, he will seize it with his forelegs. He is gentle and has a handsome appearance: his neck is long, like a camel's, but even longer; his head is elongated, like a horse's, but even narrower; on his forehead are two short hornlike things, except that they are of flesh and hair, like cut-off ears. His tail begins like the tail of a cow, but becomes hairy at the end. His coat is beautiful; it is not one color, but spotted both white and red. The giraffe is clean-you will not see the marks of dung on its hind parts-and its nature is tender, kind, and affectionate. A person can feed it by hand and it will come up close to eat, and if he turns his back, it will not kick or harm him. They say that it is the offspring of three animals: the wild she-camel, the wild cow, and the hyena. The hyena mated with the she-camel, producing a male, and this male mated with the cow, which produced a giraffe. But the truth is that this is a completely separate creature, having both male and female, like all other living things.
那里还有长颈鹿。 3º 这是一种外形奇特的动物。 它的前腿比后腿长，如果你把东西放在地上让它吃，它就会用前腿抓住东西。 它性情温顺，外表英俊：它的脖子很长，像骆驼的脖子，但比骆驼的脖子还要长；它的头很长，像马的头，但比马的头还要窄；它的额头上有两只像角一样的短东西，只不过是肉和毛组成的，就像截下来的耳朵。 它的尾巴一开始像牛尾巴，但最后长满了毛。 它的皮毛很漂亮，不是一种颜色，而是有白色和红色的斑点。 长颈鹿很干净，在它的后肢上看不到粪便的痕迹，它的天性温柔、善良、多情。 人可以用手喂它，它也会凑过来吃，如果人背对着它，它也不会踢人或伤害人。 据说它是三种动物的后代：野母驼、野牛和鬣狗。 鬣狗与母骆驼交配，生下一只公骆驼，这只公骆驼又与母牛交配，生下一只长颈鹿。 但事实上，长颈鹿是一种完全独立的生物，和其他所有生物一样，既有雄性，也有雌性。
There are buffalo here too, and the Bactrian camel, and the deer, which is an animal capable of great speed having two horns, each horn with tiny horns coming out of it, so that it looks like the branches of a tree. They say that the deer adds two small horns ev- ery year. There were donkeys from India of a handsome red color. They have violent natures and attack whoever comes near. They also had one of our donkeys there, claiming it was both male and female. We inquired further, but they were mindful of the pres- ence of the ladies. The many gazelles, lions, and leopards there were familiar to us, but they also had another type whose skin was striped. They said it was a tiger from the land of America. We also saw wolves, larger than the wolves of our country, which were vi- olent and aggressive toward whoever approached them; many kinds of monkeys; and a large number of animals that resembled closely the rabbit, the hare, the weasel, and the rat. Also a huge cage filled with all kinds of birds, made of fine wire which let in the light but kept them from flying away.
这里还有水牛、双峰骆驼和鹿，鹿是一种速度极快的动物，长着两只角，每只角上都长着小角，看起来就像树枝一样。 据说鹿每年都会增加两只小角。 还有来自印度的毛驴，它们的颜色是鲜艳的红色。 它们生性凶猛，谁靠近就攻击谁。 他们还养了一头我们的驴，声称是公驴和母驴。 我们进一步询问，但他们顾虑到女士们的安全。 那里有许多羚羊、狮子和豹子，我们都很熟悉，但他们还养了另一种皮有条纹的动物。 他们说这是来自美洲大陆的老虎。 我们还看到了狼，它们比我们国家的狼更大，无论谁靠近它们，它们都会凶猛地攻击对方；还有许多种猴子；以及大量与兔子、野兔、黄鼠狼和老鼠十分相似的动物。 还有一个巨大的笼子，里面装满了各种鸟类，笼子是用细铁丝做成的，既能透光，又能防止它们飞走。
A large pavilion in this garden had many small rooms in which there were countless stones and rare minerals. In the first room we entered, we saw a lump of congealed mud and bones; they claimed it was a remnant of the Flood. Also a huge chunk of pure gold whose like, they said, could be found in mines. There were innu- merable samples of rocks containing gold and silver, copper, lead, and iron, and a great boulder of iron which they claim fell from the sky. Also many kinds of uncut emeralds, diamonds, and other [stones] whose names I do not know, although every type had writ- ten on it its name and description.
花园里有一个大亭子，亭子里有许多小房间，房间里摆放着数不清的石头和稀有矿物。 在我们进入的第一个房间里，我们看到了一坨凝固的泥巴和骨头；他们声称这是洪水的遗迹。 还有一大块纯金，他们说这是在矿井里才能找到的。 还有一些含金、银、铜、铅和铁的岩石样本，以及一块巨大的铁块，他们声称这是从天上掉下来的。 还有许多种未经切割的祖母绿、钻石和其他[宝石]，我不知道它们的名字，尽管每种宝石上都写着它们的名字和描述。
There were also varieties of crystal, both clear and colored, and dead bones which they claim were left over from the Flood; indeed,they have compared them to the forms of animals still living and cannot find their like. Also you will see there the skin of a sala- mander, and all kinds of cereals that grow in their country, some whole and others displayed with their grains [under] glass.
那里还有各种水晶，有透明的，也有彩色的，还有死人的骨头，他们声称这些骨头是洪水过后留下的；事实上，他们把这些骨头与仍然活着的动物的形态进行了比较，却找不到类似的东西。 你还会在那里看到蝾螈的皮，以及生长在他们国家的各种谷物，有些是完整的，有些则是连同谷粒一起[放在]玻璃下展示的。
In this garden there are various types of exotic plants. Some are planted outside, each planting having a bit of wood next to it with a paper telling its name and characteristics. Unusual [plants] which cannot endure the cold of that country are placed in rooms enclosed. by walls and a roof of glass framed in wood that can be opened and shut. In the floor of the room are iron pipes flowing with water heated by a fire outside the room. The floor itself is made of an iron grating, and the plants are set on it in boxes and containers. The temperature of the room agrees with the plants in it. If the plants are from the desert, such as the date palm, they heat it like the Sa- hara so they will flourish; if the plant is from America, they heat it like America, and so forth. If it is the season of clouds and cold, they close the room on all sides and grow the plants by that heat alone; but if it is sunny and mild, they open it up partly to let in the air. In the summertime they take the plants out-of-doors altogether.
在这个花园里，有各种奇特的植物。 有些植物种在室外，每种植物旁边都有一块木板，上面贴着一张纸，写着植物的名字和特性。 不能忍受该国寒冷的稀有[植物]被放在房间里，这些房间由木框围成的玻璃墙和屋顶围成，可以打开和关闭。 房间的地板上有铁管，里面流淌着用房间外的火加热的水。 地板本身是用铁栅栏做成的，植物就放在上面的盒子和容器里。 房间的温度与里面植物的温度一致。 如果是沙漠里的植物，比如椰枣，他们就像萨哈拉一样加热，这样植物就会生长茂盛；如果是美洲的植物，他们就像美洲一样加热，以此类推。 如果是多云和寒冷的季节，他们就把房间四面封闭，仅靠热量让植物生长；但如果是阳光明媚、气候温和的季节，他们就把房间部分打开，让空气流通。 到了夏天，他们就把植物全部搬到室外。
Among the plants we saw here were the date palm, the banana, the trees of coffee and tea, both of which are quite small, and a fruit called the pineapple," which they get from the land of America. It is the size of a large orange with leaves coming out of its head, but graduated like the cone of a pine tree. They adore it even though a single one costs five riyāls or more. They cut it up into small pieces and eat it with sugar, and sometimes they cook it. Its taste is both sweet and sour at once, and for that reason they pass sugar with it.
我们在这里看到的植物有椰枣树、香蕉、咖啡树和茶树（这两种树都很小），还有一种叫做菠萝的水果，"这种水果是从美洲大陆运来的。 菠萝有一个大橘子那么大，叶子从头上长出来，但又像松树的圆锥体。 尽管一个菠萝要 5 里亚尔或更贵，但他们还是爱不释手。 他们把橘子切成小块，加糖吃，有时也煮着吃。 它的味道酸甜可口，因此他们把糖和它一起吃。
The expanse of this garden outside of the buildings includes huge trees [planted] in even rows, sources of water, sitting places of every shape, and houses for servants and staff and the soldiers who guard it. It is one of the most renowned places in Paris. The purpose of putting all these animals, plants, and minerals in one place is so that whoever is engaged in the study of science and sees a name in a book can come here and observe the object in reality. Anyone who wishes to learn by firsthand observation is free to come, although parts of it may be closed to the public except on certain days, such as Sunday.
建筑群外的这个花园占地广阔，有成行成列的大树、水源、各种形状的休憩处、仆人、工作人员和守卫士兵的住所。 它是巴黎最著名的地方之一。 把所有这些动物、植物和矿物集中在一个地方，是为了让任何从事科学研究的人，只要在书上看到一个名字，就可以到这里来实地观察。 任何希望通过亲身观察来学习的人都可以来这里，尽管除了周日等特定日子，这里的部分区域可能不对公众开放。
NOTES：
1. Seven parasangs is about twenty-one miles (see note s below). "Rifa'a Effendi" is Rifa'a Rafi at-Tahțawi (see Introduction, note 132). References to his Takhliş are taken from M. 'Amāra, ed., Al-a'mal al-kä- mila li-Rifa'a Rafi at-Tahtāwī, part 2 (Beirut, 1973), pp. 9-266, and from the abridged French translation by Anouar Louca, L'or de Paris: Relation de voyage, 1826-1831 (Paris, 1988).
2. According to Ibn Khaldün, Paris was in the second section of the inhospitable sixth zone. Muqaddimah 1:159. André Miquel says that most medieval Muslim accounts of Europe were based on the writings of a Jew- ish traveler, Ibrāhīm b. Ya'qüb (10th c.), whose own work has been lost. "L'Europe occidentale dans la relation arabe d'Ibrāhīm b. Ya'qüb (X s.)." Annales: Economies, Sociétés, Civilisations 21, 5 (September-October 1966): 1051. Mas'ūdī (d. 345/956) speaks of Paris (al-Bawira) as a "huge city, the home of the [Frankish] kingdom." Les prairies d'or, trans. C. Barbier de Meynard and Pavet de Courteille, 3 vols. (Paris, 1864), 3:67. Al-Idrīsī (12th c.) also mentions Paris (Ibārīz) as "a city of some importance, endowed with vineyards and orchards, situated on an island in the Seine." Charles Pellat, "La France dans la géographie d'al-Idrīsī," Studi maghrebini 10 (1978): 62. On the "Franks" in general, see Miquel, Géographie humaine, vol. 2, Géographie arabe et représentation du monde: La terre et l'étranger, pp. 354-59.
3. On süg days, rural Moroccan towns become the scene of bustling activity, as country folk crowd in to buy and sell goods and livestock.
4. At-Tahțāwī said the population of Paris was "about a million peo- ple." Takhlis, p. 74; L'or, p. 117.
5. In 1840, a new fortified wall was built around Paris some distance from the eighteenth-century customs wall, which was now part of a densely inhabited area. Completed in 1843, its circumference was about twenty-one miles. Built into it were bastions for cannons, and it was pro- tected outside by a wide ditch. Sixteen new forts were built surrounding the city, at the distance of a "cannon-shot" away. The purpose was to give Paris the appearance of a well-fortified camp. P. Lavedan, Histoire de Paris, series "Que sais-je?" no. 34 (Paris, 1960), pp. 78-79.
6. Darābīz. In Dozy, darābīz; 1:430.
7. These are the old customs gates to Paris, known as barrières, manned by customs officers responsible for collecting the gate taxes. Jacques-Louis Ménétra, Journal of My Life (New York, 1986), p. 134 and note 167. In Morocco, diwān meant both the tax rolls themselves and the place where taxes were collected, hence "bureau." Dozy 1:478-79.
8. Arabic asbītār, perhaps from the Spanish hospital. The classical word is bimäristän (from Persian bimär "sick" + istan "place"), often shortened to märistän, but in Morocco this word has the special meaning of "asylum." El 2, s.v. "Bīmāristān"; W. Marçais, Textes arabes de Tanger (Paris, 1911), p. 465.
9. Aş-Şaffär visited the fortress of St. Cloud, southwest of Paris, on 5 February 1846. AAE/ADM Voyage, Beaumier to de Chasteau, 8 February 1846.
10. Tubjiya, from the Turkish. Dozy 2:20.
11. Ancient Lutetia, known today as La Cité, was the original settle- ment of Paris; it is the site of the cathedral of Notre Dame.
12. In Muslim practice, the ritual ablution (wudu) is performed each time prayers are recited. It consists of washing the face, hands, forearms, and feet. The water used is considered unclean and must be discarded. In the courtyard of the mosque large fountains are used for washing, and drains in the floor carry the waste water away. SEI, s. v. "Wudü"."
13. Aş-Şaffar's figure is far too low. L'Illustration reported on 15 No-
vember 1845 that Paris had 28,520 vehicles just for carrying people.
14. Compare with at-Tahțawi, Takhliş, p. 76; L'or, pp. 120-21.
15. The "Entreprise des Omnibus," founded in 1828, was the first pub- lic transportation company in Paris. Soon other private companies began carrying paying passengers, and in aş-Şaffär's day omnibuses with colorful names such as Josephine, Gazelle, and Hirondelle traversed the city. Guide Michelin: Paris, 1988 ed., p. 4.
16. Aş-Şaffar's notion of a great marketplace was the qaysariya of Fes. People shopped there in the day, but at night its gates were closed and its streets empty. Selling was from open stalls raised above the street, and the same goods were often found in shops located side by side. Basic items were also sold in residential quarters, but these shopkeepers were petty tradesmen compared to the grand merchants of the qaysariya. R. Le Tour- neau, La vie quotidienne à Fes en 1900 (Paris, 1965), pp. 121-24; al-Qadiri (trans. Cigar), Nashr, p. 221 and note 6; El 2, 5. v. "Kaysāriyya."
17. The Palais Royal, built in the sixteenth century. By the eighteenth century, boutiques, gambling houses, and other amusements filled its gal- leries. Halet Effendi, a Turkish traveler of the early nineteenth century, noted that the rooms above were used as brothels, and that "to go to that place by night is shameful, but. there is no harm in going there by day." Lewis, Muslim Discovery, p. 291. By aş-Şaffär's time, the more bawdy forms of entertainment had been closed down. Guide Michelin: Paris, 1988 ed., pp. 113-15.
18. The Grands Boulevards were built where the medieval fortifications of Paris once stood. In the 1840s, their sidewalks were lined with dance halls, spectacles, and restaurants.
19. This was the "Ville de France," the first large magasin de nouveautés in Paris and the forerunner of the modern department store, which opened in 1843. The shop was a novelty for Parisians too, for unlike other shops, it sold a variety of goods, had fixed prices, and made its profit on a rapid turnover. Michael Miller, The Bon Marche: Bourgeois Culture and the Depart- ment Store, 1869-1920 (Princeton, 1981), pp. 21-25.
20. About 60,000 francs a day in trade. A franc was worth about twenty cents.
21. When aş-Şaffär says "their five-franc piece is like our dirham," he is not referring to the specific value of the dirham, which was about one-tenth the value of the 5-franc piece, but rather means that the 5-franc piece was the basic unit of French coinage, as the dirham was in Morocco.
French goods seemed expensive because of the diminishing demand for Moroccan currency relative to foreign specie. The French 5-franc piece, weighing 25 grams, was used in Morocco and called the riyal. In the eigh- teenth century, the principal Moroccan coins were local ones: the mithqäl, a silver coin of 29 grams; the dirham, a silver coin of 2.9 grams, or one-tenth of a mithgal; and the üqiya, a bronze coin equal to one dirham. In the nine- teenth century, the heavier silver mithqāl was replaced on the local market by European coins of inferior value, such as the 5-franc piece, now called the riyal. The Makhzan permitted this in order to maintain a desired nom- inal ratio between bronze and silver coinage; by the 1840s the old rate of 10 üqiyas 1 mithgal had changed to a new rate of 16 ūqiyas = 1 riyal. I am grateful to Thomas Park for this information. See his "Inflation and Eco- nomic Policy in 19th Century Morocco: The Compromise Solution," Ma- ghreb Review 10, 2-3 (1985): 51-56; 'Umar Afa, Mas'alat an-nuqüd fi tārīkh al-Maghrib fi qarn at-tasi 'ashr: Süs 1822-1906 (Casablanca, 1988), pp. 203- 14; and G. Ayache, "Aspects de la crise financière au Maroc après l'expé- dition espagnole de 1860," in Études d'histoire marocaine (Rabat, 1983), pp.97-138.
22. The louis d'or, which equaled 20 francs. The dinar (from the Latin denarius) was an Islamic gold coin weighing about 4.25 grams. IB 2:444 note 111; El 2, s.v. "Dinar."
23. In Arabic, șuld; a copper coin equal to five centimes.
24. The jūțiya is a secondhand market, or flea market. R. Le Tour- neau, Fes avant le Protectorat (Casablanca, 1949), p. 242; simsärs were brokers dealing in new and used goods. Ibid., p. 378.
25. These two large fountains, still to be seen in the Place de la Con- corde, were installed by Louis-Philippe to change the public image of the place where the guillotine of the Revolution had once stood. Guide Mi- chelin: Paris, 1988 ed., p. 47.
26. The Jardin des Tuileries borders the right bank of the Seine; at one end was the royal residence, the Palace of the Tuileries, and at the other the Place de la Concorde. The palace was destroyed during the Paris Commune of May 1871.
27. The Jardin des Plantes, founded in 1626 to provide a living labora- tory for scientists and researchers in natural history. In 1640 it was opened to the public, and French naturalists enriched its collections with specimens gathered from all over the world. The menagerie was added during the Revolution, when the royal zoo was moved there from Versailles. Guide Michelin: Paris, 1988 ed., p. 205. For at-Tahțāwī's impressions, see Takhlis,p. 164; L'or, pp. 190-92.
28. The Arctic Ocean.
29. Arabic arwā, a word denoting the mounts in the Sultan's stables. See Ibn Zaydän, Izz 1:47.
30. Zarafa, a word of Arabic origin. The giraffe had arrived at the Jardin des Plantes only a few years before, and was a novelty even for Parisians. Louca, Voyageurs et écrivains, pp. 40, 254-55. This passage bears a striking resemblance to the 'Aja'ib al-makhlūgāt wa-ghara' ib al-mawjūdāt, by Zaka- riya b. Muhammad b. Mahmüd Abū Yahya, known as al-Qazwini (d. 682/ 1283), still a standard Muslim reference on natural science in aş-Şaffär's day. Part Two of this work contains descriptions of the animal kingdom. The entry under "giraffe" reads: "Its head is like the head of a camel, and its horns like the horns of a cow. Its skin is like the skin of a leopard, and its hoofs like those of an ox. Its neck is extremely long, its forelegs long, and its hind legs short. It is shaped like a camel.... They say that a giraffe is born from an Abyssinian she-camel, a wild cow, and a hyena in the land of Ethiopia." See Kamal ad-Din ad-Damiri, Hayat al-hayawan al-kubra, 2 vols. (Cairo, 1306/1888-89), vol. 2; al-Qazwīnī's text is in the margin on p. 177. Also El 2, s. v. "al-Kazwīnī, Zakariyyā' b. Muhammad b. Mahmüd Abū Yahyä." For an illuminated manuscript copy, see E. Atil, Art of the Arab World (Washington, D.C., 1975), pp. 128-29.
31. As-Saffär says it is khunthā, meaning "hermaphrodite." Perhaps the French interpreter provided this word. The identity of the ladies is un- known.
32. The "Flood" was the interpreter's means of describing prehistory to aş-Şaffär, who of course had no notion of history that did not presume God's creation.
33. Anana, in Arabic, from the French ananas. The botanical name is ananas comosus.
34. Botanical classification was not unknown in Morocco. A sixteenth- century scholar from Fes, Qasim b. Muhammad al-Wazir al-Ghassani, wrote a treatise classifying 379 medicinal plants found locally. But the clas- sification of plants having no practical use was new to aş-Şaffär. See H. P. J. Renaud, "Un essai de classification botanique dans l'oeuvre d'un médecin marocain du XVIe siècle," Mémorial Henri Basset: Nouvelles études nord-afri- caines et orientales, 2 vols. (Paris, 1928), 2:197-206.
35. At-tayātrű, al-kūmathiya, al-awbra. Public performances of a theatri- cal nature were not part of Sunni Muslim culture, and theater-going was a novel experience for most visitors to the West. At-Tahțāwī stressed the util- ity of the theater in teaching public morality (Takhlis, p. 119; L'or, p. 154). and Khayr ad-Din at-Tünisi described it as "a poetical form suitable to be recited at meetings and intended for the polishing of manners." At-Tūnisi, The Surest Path: The Political Treatise of a Nineteenth-century Muslim States- man, trans. L. C. Brown (Cambridge, Mass., 1967), p. 140. The Moroc- cans enjoyed the Parisian theater and went often. In one week (1-7 February 1846) they saw three different theatrical events: an opera, a play, and a per- formance by the celebrated Mlle Rachel. AAE/ADM/Voyage, Beaumier to de Chasteau, 8 February 1846.
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